In 1856 the crown jeweler Bapst created a comb for Empress Eugenie using diamonds from the French crown jewels. The head ornament had nine long diamond pendants called pampilles or aiquillettes.
At the auction of the French crown jewels in 1887, Tiffany’s bought four pampilles and sold two of them to Junius Spencer Morgan, the wealthy patriarch of the renowned merchant banking family.
He put these 2 pampilles in the safe with this order:
The contents of this box „2 diamond pendants from the Crown Jewels of France“ as described in the papers which accompany them are the property of my daughter Mary Ethel Burns.
They were handed to me by her Grandfather on the 29th June 20/88 to be held in Trust for her.
Walter H. Burns.
It was an exquisite and amazing present to his granddaughter May Burns.
She remounted the pampilles and the twenty-eight diamonds into a fringe necklace. It is said that the old-mine cut diamonds are I to J in colourc, SI to I1 clarity in lively brilliance.
The historic Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Diamond Necklace went to Tiffany & Co., on auction in October 2015, who first purchased the 28 diamonds on the necklace at the 1887 French Crown Jewels auction in Paris. US$1,548,718 / CHF 1,505,959 Source:Sotheby’s;
History of the enormous jewel collection of Queen Mary
DIAMOND TROPHY OF LOVE COLLAR
Formed of seven brilliant-set panels, each with an amatory trophy of bow, quiver and torch in a laurel-wreath oval suspended from a ribbon-tie, framed by foliate brilliant-set bands.
This delicately constructed collar, in the Louis XVI style, was made in March
1901 for Queen Mary when Duchess of Cornwall and York, at the beginning of the reign of King Edward VII. It was probably made by R. & S. Garrard & Co., with diamonds in Gold 6 × 34 cm
The diamonds were taken from a scroll and ribbon-pattern collar*, which itself had been made with stones taken from seven 12-pointed stars and a pair of diamond star earrings, given by Queen Mary’s grandmother, the Duchess of Cambridge, in 1885. These gifts, in 1885, were presumably to mark the Princess’s 18th birthday.
Diamonds were also removed from a floral diamond spray given by her aunt, Augusta, Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, in the same year 1885.
Queen Mary, like her mother-in-law Queen Alexandra, favoured deep collar necklaces for most of her life, due to her long slim neck and the high fashion of the time. The style was not adopted either by Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, to whom the necklace was given when Duchess of York, or by The Queen, who inherited it in 2002, who has worn it only once. * No reference has been found to the creation of this necklace in the Garrard ledgers; the firm supplied four diamonds and repaired it early in 1902 (Garrard RL51, fol. 266, 30 January 1902, £1 15s). Equally, there is no reference to this necklace in the Cartier archive (an attribution suggested in Munn 2001, p. 133).**
Queen Mary’s jewellery | jewel wedding gift list
For her marriage in 1893 to the Duke of York,the future George V, the Princess received a very considerable quantity of jewellery; the majority was of diamonds and pearls.
Generous gifts from her family and from the extended royal family vied with spectacular offerings from all round the United Kingdom and across the Empire.
Among the more significant jewels, exhibited at the Imperial Institute, were three tiaras, twenty-six bracelets, forty-four brooches and fifteen necklaces**.
Pearl necklace with diamond clasp from the Ladies of Glasgow consisting of 51 pearls, graduated from the centre, with the largest being about the size of an ordinary pea. The length of the necklace is 14 inches. The clasp consists of eleven diamonds set in gold. The pearls were valued at £930 and the total cost was close to £1000 (The Scotsman, 30 June 1893) Messrs R. & W.Sorley
Emerald and sapphires ring from her three brothers. (Sold during the auction of Princess Margraret)
Cross of the 17th century, a trinket very much in fashion in olden timeswith our fair Norman kinswomen and in a case adorned with the two Sons of William the Conqueror. It has been sent from Neufchatel-en-Bray, an old town founded by Henry I of England and has been presented by Captain Le Clerc, of the French Embassy, in whose family it has been for many years
Amethyst and topaz bracelet – Lord & Lady Burton made by Messrs. and Sons, Edinburgh
Lace parasol with carved pin coral handle – from the Italian ambassador and Lady Tornielli
Little gold watch and chain inclosed in a small glass case formerly in the possession of the Empress Josephine from Dr Chittenden.
Small birthday book bound in gold and tortoiseshell, containing a miniature in ivory of the royal family and bearing a coronet and short inscription in diamonds and enamel – from the Baron and Baroness Lowenstein. Bird in gold and enamel box – Sir Henry and Lady Meysey-Thomson
A carbuncle and diamond heart and “ Wings of Time“ brooch from Mr. Wyndham,
Brooch – beautiful jewel, the gift of the Worshipful Company of Carpenters. It consisted of the arms of the Company in diamonds, surrounded with brilliants, and surmounted by the motto of the Company, Honour God.
1894 Royal Wedding at Chester at the private chapel of the Duke of Westminster, the bride:
Margaret Evelyn Cambridge, Marchioness of Cambridge 1873 – 1929
was the sixth child and third daughter of the 1st Duke of Westminster and the wife of the 1st Marquess of Cambridge.
She was known before her marriage as The Lady Margaret Grosvenor, and after it she was also known as Princess Adolphus of Teck and later The Duchess of Teck.
The ball at Eaton having been abondoned in consequence of the mourning in Court circles. Owing to the death of the Czar, the Prince and Princess of Wales and the Duke and Duchess of Fife are not be present at the wedding.
Bedeutdende Perlen des Hauses Oranien, natürliche Perlen zu einer Halskette aufgereiht, mit einem Saphir-und Diamantschliesse aus dem 17. Jahrhundert. Bestehend aus einem Strang von Naturperlen im Verlauf von ca. 8,10 bis 11,10 mm. Der Verschluss ein kissenförmigen Saphir, mit Oval -und Rundschliff -Diamanten , Länge ca. 425mm. Ehemals doppelt, im 19. Jhdt wurde die Schliesse verändert und ein Teil als passender Ring gefertigt, siehe oben rechts.
Die Perlen wurden von den Nachkommen des Friedrich Heinrich, Prinz von Oranien ( 1584-1647 ) zusammengestellt. Seine Frau, Prinzessin Amalie zu Solms – Braunfels (1602-1675) war ein leidenschaftlicher Sammler von Gemälden , Kunstwerke und Juwelen. Das Haus von Oranien hatte gute Beziehung zu der Niederländischen Ostindien-Kompanie, somit Zugang zu indischen Perlen von außergewöhnlicher Qualität und Größe. In Übereinstimmung mit den oranischen Erbrecht , hinterließ Prinzessin Amalie ihre persönlichen Sachen ihren vier Töchtern. Die enorme Erbschaft bestand aus einem Schatz von Gemälden, darunter Werke die sich nun in den Museen von Berlin, Potsdam und Dessau befinden, sowie Juwelen und ihre viel bewundert Perlen. Zwei der Töchter , Prinzessin Louise Henriette von Nassau (1627-1667) und Prinzessin Catherine Henriette von Nassau (1637-1708) erhalten “ Oranische Perlen “ Halsketten. Die Mitgift der Prinzessin Louise Henriette, Frau des “ Grossen Kurfürsten “ Friedrich Wilhelm von Brandenburg, listet 1647 eine Kette von fünfundvierzig runde Perlen, auf 240.000 Gulden, Schätzwert. Ihre Schwester, Prinzessin Henriette Catherine erhielt eine ähnliche Halskette, als sie 1659 Johann Georg II. , Fürst von Anhalt-Dessau heiratete . Alle Perlen wurden Innerhalb der Familie vererbt, durchgängig bis zum jetztigen Besitzer. Aufgrund ihrer großen Bedeutung wurden sie düber die folgenden Generationen auf den wichtigen Porträts getragen. Im frühen 19. Jahrhundert ergänzte Herzogin Louise Henriette von Brandenburg- Schwedt (1750-1811)geb Anhalt die Halskette mit einem beeindruckenden Diamant- und Saphir- Doppelverschluss. Nachdem sich Kaisers Napoleon zu einem Besuch in Dessau, angekündigt hat .
Die beiden Juwelen, als die wichtigsten Stücke der Anhaltschen Hausschmuck – haben die russische Invasion des Zweiten Weltkriegs überlebt.
Die Perlen werden im Mai 2014, in Genf versteigert. Source:Sothebys
Important historic Pearls of the House Anhalt- Dessau, Askanien
The Pearls of the House of Orange‘, a natural pearl, sapphire and diamond necklace, 17th century and later
Composed of a strand of lightly graduated natural pearls, measuring from approximately 8.10 to 11.10mm, the clasp set with a cushion-shaped sapphire, framed with oval and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 425mm.
The Pearls of the House of Orange‘, a natural pearl, sapphire and diamond necklace, 17th century and later
Composed of a strand of lightly graduated natural pearls, measuring from approximately 8.10 to 11.10mm, the clasp set with a cushion-shaped sapphire, framed with oval and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 425mm.By family tradition, the pearls from the necklace on the preceding page (lot 384) were assembled by the descendants of Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange (1584-1647). His wife, Princess Amalie zu Solms-Braunfels (1602-1675) was a passionate collector of paintings, works of art and jewels. The House of Orange’s relationship with the Dutch East India Company gave them access to Indian pearls of exceptional quality and size. In accordance with the Orange inheritance laws, Princess Amalie left her personal belongings to her four daughters. The enormous inheritance consisted of a treasure trove of paintings including works now in Berlin, Potsdam and Dessau museums as well as jewels and her much admired pearls. Two of the daughters, Princess Louise Henriette of Nassau (1627-1667) and Princess Henriette Catherine of Nassau (1637-1708) are recorded as having received ‘Oranische Perlen’ necklaces. The 1647 dowry inventory of Princess Louise Henriette, wife of the ‘Großen Kurfürst’ Friedrich Wilhelm von Brandenburg, lists a row of forty-five round pearls, valued at 240,000 guilders. Her sister, Princess Henriette Catherine, received a similar necklace in 1659 when she married John George II, Prince of Anhalt-Dessau. It is these pearls which were handed down within the family to the present owner and, which due to their great importance, were worn by the following generations when posing for state portraits. In the early 19th century, Duchess Louise Henriette of Brandenburg-Schwedt (1750 to 1811) had an impressive diamond and sapphire double clasp added to the necklace following the announcement of Emperor Napoleon’s visit to Dessau.
Part of the clasp was later removed and transformed into a ring (
Sapphire and diamond ring, early 19th century compositeSet with a cushion-shaped sapphire, within a frame of pinched collet-set cushion-shaped, circular-cut and oval diamonds)
The two items on the preceding page are considered by the family as the most important pieces of the crown jewels to have survived the Russian invasion of World War II. Schmuck der Herzöge von Anhalt