The Astor Turquoise and Diamond Tiara of carved turquoise and diamonds by Boucheron and Cartier

This exquisite diamond scroll frame tiara was crafted circa 1915 by the renowned Parisian jeweler Boucheron, during the dawn of the Art Deco era—a period celebrated for its geometric precision and bold elegance. Later, it was adapted by Cartier, who enriched the design with delicate turquoise palmettes and leaf motifs, harmonizing the fluidity of nature with the movement’s signature symmetry. In 1930, Viscount Astor acquired the tiara from Cartier, and it became a cherished piece worn by Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor (1879–1964), notably at the Dominion Theatre and during the coronation celebrations, of members of the Astor family.

The bandeau-style tiara is a masterful composition of crescent-shaped, bow, and quatrefoil motifs, adorned with intricate pierced and knife-wire detailing—hallmarks of Art Deco craftsmanship. It is meticulously millegrain-set with a dazzling array of old brilliant-cut, single-cut, and rose-cut diamonds. At its center, a principal old brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 3.00 carats, commands attention. From this focal point, three fluted turquoise plumes emerge, their stems embellished with brilliant and single-cut diamonds. These plumes are elegantly flanked by carved turquoise leaves, further accentuated by old brilliant-cut diamond highlights and studded with rose-cut diamonds. The tiara’s design culminates at each end with fluted turquoise panels, radiating in a fan-shaped form that echoes the era’s fascination with dynamic, streamlined shapes.

Mounted in platinum and bearing the numbered mark "1314," the tiara boasts a total diamond weight of approximately 11.00 carats. Its inner circumference measures 33.5 cm, with a height of 4.7 cm at the center. The piece is accompanied by its original fitted case by Cartier, a testament to its provenance and craftsmanship.

The Astor Turquoise Tiara will be offered at auction by Bonhams on 5 June 2025 in London, with an estimated value of €290,000–€410,000. This exceptional piece represents not only a stunning example of early 20th-century jewelry but also a tangible connection to the illustrious Astor family and their legacy.

Sources:Photos-Bonhams,Archive Ursula Butschal;Rose: My Life in Service,Harrison, Rosina;Munn, G., Tiaras Past & Present, V&A Publications, London, 2002, p. 109, ill. figs. 81 and 82; Rudoe, J. Cartier 1930-1939, British Museum Press, London, 1997, p. 172.