Die Peregrina Perle - Elizabeth Taylor
In Zusammenarbeit mit Cartier gestaltet Elizabeth Taylor ein doppelreihiges
Perlen-Kollier mit Rubinen, an dessen Zentrum die tropfenförmige
La Peregrina als Krönung hängt. In ihrem Buch schreibt sie,
dass sie der Anblick eines Gemäldes von Elisabeth I, für
diese Kombination inspirierte, siehe links oben im Bild.
Der einzigartige Glanz der Perlen hängt von der Reflexion und
Brechung des Licht durch die lichtdurchlässigen Schichten ab
und wird um so feiner, je dünner und zahlreicher die Schichten
sind. Das Irisieren einiger Perlen entsteht durch die Überschneidung
der aufeinanderfolgenden Schichten, die oben das hereinfallende Licht
brechen. Perlen sind normalerweise weiß, manchmal mit cremigem
oder violettem Farbton, aber können mit Gelb, Grün, Blau,
Braun oder Schwarz abgetönt werden. Schwarze Perlen werden wegen
ihrer Seltenheit häufig sehr hoch geschätzt.
About Peregrina pearl
There is a debate among historians over the origin of the pear-shaped
La Peregrina pearl. According to one theory, it was found in Panama
in 1560. Ironically, its shell was initially thought to be too small
to be worth opening. After the oyster was opened to reveal its treasure,
the negro slave who found it was rewarded with his liberty, while
his master was given a plot of land and named mayor of Panama.
Another theory claims this famous pearl was found in Venezuela in
1597. King Charles V arranged the second marriage of his son Philip
II and, to make him know his future wife, commissioned this portrait
in which the life and character of the bride are depicted. Mary, straight
and austere, is sitting on a red velvet armchair. Thomas Moro delights
in depicting minutely the qualities of the cloths and of the jewels
she wears: particularly the so-called Spanish Habsburg heirloom shaped
by Peregrina pearl and Estanque square diamond. In the right hand
she grasps the red rose of the House of Tudor, see above left.
The reign of Mary Tudor was a conflicting one as she persecuted inexorably
the protestants to impose Catholicism. Her implacability caused her
being called "Bloody Mary".
After her death the pearl was returned to Spain.
Queen Margarita of Spain is said to have worn La Peregrina pearl
in Madrid in 1605 to celebrate peace between England and Spain. Joseph
Bonaparte (1768-1844) passed the pearl to his niece, Hortense de Beauharnais,
who, in turn, left it to Joseph's younger brother, Louis Napoleon.
He is said to have sold it to the Duke of Abercon, who gave it to
his wife, who often temporarily lost it due to its loose setting.
That was its fate at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle.
The pearl have never been bored, and was so heavy that it was constantly
falling from its setting.
"Once, at a ball at Buckinghan Palace, on putting her hand to
her neck, she found that the great pearl had gone. She was much distressed,
knownig how upset her husband would be. On going into supper, she
saw "La Peregrina" gleaming at her front the folds of the
velvet train of the lady inmediately in front of her. Again she lost
it at Windsor Castle, and it was found in the upholstery of a sofa..."
The duke's son ended up having La Peregrina pearl drilled to make
a secure setting for it!!
In 1913 it was polished and was certified to weigh 203.84 gr. and
in 1969 Richard Burton buy it at Sothebys to his wife. Elizabeth Taylor
was very fond of this gift and it was mounted it in a wonderful necklace,
like the future necklace of Queen Mary, made by Cartier, of pearls,
diamonds and rubis.
She lost it one time and found it, playing and bitten by her little
dog!
The world famous pearls:
The Peregrina pearl weights 203,84 grain.
The
Pelegrina pearl weights 218,5 grain.
La
Régente weights 302,68 grain.
