Vanderbilt Jewels - Die Vanderbilt Juwelen
Die Peregrina Perle - Elizabeth Taylor
In Zusammenarbeit mit Cartier gestaltet Elizabeth Taylor ein doppelreihiges Perlen-Kollier mit Rubinen, an dessen Zentrum die tropfenförmige La Peregrina als Krönung hängt. In ihrem Buch schreibt sie, dass sie der Anblick eines Gemäldes von Elisabeth I, für diese Kombination inspirierte, siehe links oben im Bild.
Der einzigartige Glanz der Perlen hängt von der Reflexion und Brechung des Licht durch die lichtdurchlässigen Schichten ab und wird um so feiner, je dünner und zahlreicher die Schichten sind. Das Irisieren einiger Perlen entsteht durch die Überschneidung der aufeinanderfolgenden Schichten, die oben das hereinfallende Licht brechen. Perlen sind normalerweise weiß, manchmal mit cremigem oder violettem Farbton, aber können mit Gelb, Grün, Blau, Braun oder Schwarz abgetönt werden. Schwarze Perlen werden wegen ihrer Seltenheit häufig sehr hoch geschätzt.
Die Schmuck-Sammlung von Liz Taylor:
Peregrina Pearl - Liz Taylor
About Peregrina pearl
There is a debate among historians over the origin of the pear-shaped La Peregrina pearl. According to one theory, it was found in Panama in 1560. Ironically, its shell was initially thought to be too small to be worth opening. After the oyster was opened to reveal its treasure, the negro slave who found it was rewarded with his liberty, while his master was given a plot of land and named mayor of Panama.
Another theory claims this famous pearl was found in Venezuela in 1597. King Charles V arranged the second marriage of his son Philip II and, to make him know his future wife, commissioned this portrait in which the life and character of the bride are depicted. Mary, straight and austere, is sitting on a red velvet armchair. Thomas Moro delights in depicting minutely the qualities of the cloths and of the jewels she wears: particularly the so-called Spanish Habsburg heirloom shaped by Peregrina pearl and Estanque square diamond. In the right hand she grasps the red rose of the House of Tudor, see above left.
The reign of Mary Tudor was a conflicting one as she persecuted inexorably the protestants to impose Catholicism. Her implacability caused her being called "Bloody Mary".
After her death the pearl was returned to Spain.
Queen Margarita of Spain is said to have worn La Peregrina pearl in Madrid in 1605 to celebrate peace between England and Spain. Joseph Bonaparte (1768-1844) passed the pearl to his niece, Hortense de Beauharnais, who, in turn, left it to Joseph's younger brother, Louis Napoleon.
He is said to have sold it to the Duke of Abercon, who gave it to his wife, who often temporarily lost it due to its loose setting. That was its fate at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle.
The pearl have never been bored, and was so heavy that it was constantly falling from its setting.
"Once, at a ball at Buckinghan Palace, on putting her hand to her neck, she found that the great pearl had gone. She was much distressed, knownig how upset her husband would be. On going into supper, she saw "La Peregrina" gleaming at her front the folds of the velvet train of the lady inmediately in front of her. Again she lost it at Windsor Castle, and it was found in the upholstery of a sofa..."
The duke's son ended up having La Peregrina pearl drilled to make a secure setting for it!!
In 1913 it was polished and was certified to weigh 203.84 gr. and in 1969 Richard Burton buy it at Sothebys to his wife. Elizabeth Taylor was very fond of this gift and it was mounted it in a wonderful necklace, like the future necklace of Queen Mary, made by Cartier, of pearls, diamonds and rubis.
She lost it one time and found it, playing and bitten by her little dog!
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