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Entertaining took place on the same opulently showy scale. Alva Vanderbilts 1883 costume ball was rumored to have cost $250,000 for costumes, catering, food, champagne, and decor, which included transforming the second-floor supper room into a tropical forest luxuriating with potted palms and orchids. One wealthy animal lover gave a banquet for his favorite dog, culminating in the gift of a $15,000 diamond collar to the canine guest of honor Gilded Age,
Mansions were the most conspicuous form of display. The block-long, triple-brownstone mansion of William H. Vanderbilt at 51st Street and Fifth Avenue, built in 1883 in the Italian Renaissance style, cost an estimated $3 million. In Mrs. Vanderbilt's exquisite bedroom, where silver toilet services, embroidered silks, and delicate hangings vie with masterly paintings to refresh the attention, one awed visitor was charmed to find one worn-looking object, and only one: it is the little Bible. At least Mrs. Vanderbilt was able to sleep among the magnificence of her surroundings; Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish commissioned for herself a Gothic bedroom that so enraptured her that she chose to leave it unsullied by sleeping in an adjacent dressing room. As it turned out, most of these elaborate homes, built to endure the ages, did not survive a century.
To understand what a million dollars was in 1892, consider that a factory worker earned about $446 a year, a railroader $563, and a miner $393. Clerks took home about $885 annually, schoolteachers a paltry $270. A family could live in middle-class comfort with servants on $2,000 a year. With interest rates at 4 percent, people of means could earn this amount on a nest egg of $50,000. In 1892 the purchasing power of a dollar was perhaps 13 or 14 times what it is now, and no one paid any federal income tax regardless of how much he earned. For many years, the Vanderbilts were America's richest family.  The patriarch of the family fortune, CommodoreCornelius Vanderbilt, amassed an overwhelming fortune of over $100 million in the shipping and railroad business.  His son William Henry, who inherited the family business, doubled the fortune to $200 million.  Upon his death, the fortune was divided among his children, the youngest being George.  His portion, considering he was the youngest thus receiving the least amount, was then a staggering $10 million.  Earlier in his life, George also inherited about $2 million from his grandfather, the “Commodore.”  With his fortune of $12 million, George set upon living the life of leisure and needed a grand estate to entertain family and friends. Vanderbilt Jewels |Tudor Rose Brosche - Mrs Vanderbilts Schmuckcollection

Vanderbilt Jewels - Die Vanderbilt Juwelen

MRS VANDERBILT UND DIE TUDOR ROSE

Die atemberaubende Diamant-Corsage-Brosche von Prinzessin Mathilde Bonaparte, Tochter von Jerome Bonaparte, König von Westfalen, ist eine naturgetreue Nachbildung einer lebensechten Rosenblüte mit Knospen, aus Gold, Silber (die Hinterlegung von Silber mit Gold im 18.und 19 Jahrhundert, festigte die weiche Silberfassung und verhinderte den direkten Kontakt des oxydierenden Metalls mit Haut oder Stoff), Altschliff-Diamanten und Diamant-Rosen. 1855 von Theodore Fester zu diesem aussergewöhnliche Brustschmuck geschaffen, entsprach sie genau dem Geschmack der exzentrischen und reichen Besitzerin mit einem enormen Appetit auf Juwelen und Schmuck, es war eines ihrer Prunkstücke.

15 Zentimeter besetzt mit 2637 Brillanten zusammen 136 Karat und weitere 860 kleiner Diamant-Rosen bilden dieses Kleinod, das einst Prinzessin Mathilde Bonaparte, Nichte von Napoleon besaß. Ihr Vater Jerome war König von Westfalen von Napoleons Gnaden, ihre Mutter Katharina, eine württembergische Prinzessin.
Ihre Schmuck-Sammlung galt als die exclusivste und extravaganteste nach der Collection der Kaiserin Eugenie von Frankreich >> mehr Details >>.

Nach ihrem Tod wurden 1904 ihre Preziosen in Paris versteigert.
Cartier erwarb die Borsche, für die reiche verwöhnte Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, die "Society-Königin von New York" . Amerikas Kautschuk-Baron (zu dieser Zeit reichster Mann Amerikas) ergänzte die märchenhafte Collection seiner Frau um dieses Juwel, Cartier half ihm dabei und lieferte fleissig spektakuläre Stücke, wie oben das Collier 1908 mit hängenden runden und birnenförmigen Diamanten, nach der neuesten Pariser Mode.
Oder den 1910 entstandenen, unglaublichen Miederschmuck aus Diamanttropfenkaskaden, diamantbesetzten Fransen und Quasten, diese überzogen die Brust gleich einer schräg herabfallenden Schärpe und waren beidseitig durch grosse Brillantschleifen "aufgehängt", passend zu den Roben Paul Poirets.
Mrs Vanderbilt entwickelte sich zu einer Mentorin Cartiers, sie veranstaltete zum 30. Geburtstag des Prinzen of Wales (späteren Eduard VIII) im Spencer House in London einen Ball. Extra dafür wurde eine besondere, riesige Geburtstagtorte aufgetragen, im Inneren war sie ganz mit wertvollen Überraschungen gefüllt, die sie bei Cartier ausgesucht hatte.

Der Prinz aber erschien verspätet und schlecht gelaunt und fand das Spektakel mürrische nur "how vulgar", worauf am folgenden Tag, Mrs Vanderbilt die Kostbarkeiten an Cartier zurückschickte.

1972 wurde die Brosche wieder versteigert, diesmal an einen privaten Sammler, der sie später an den Juwelier Fred Leighton veräusserte, als Grundstein für dessen private Schmucksammlung. Jetzt wurde es erneut versteigert

Die Schmuck-Sammlung von Mrs Vanderbilt:


weitere Juwelen             Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt

Geschichten über die Vanderbilts und Astors  

 

 

THE TUDOR ROSE A MAGNIFICENT ANTIQUE DIAMOND CORSAGE BROOCH, BY THEODORE FESTER| Vanderbilt Jewels

Designed as a large sculpted rose blossom, entirely decorated by old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, mounted in silver-topped gold, circa 1855, in a red leather fitted case According historical documents, the brooch is said to contain, "2,637 brilliants for 136 carats and 860 little roses not weighed"

The Tudor Rose, a magnificent diamond corsage brooch, belonged to Princess Mathilde (1820-1904), daughter of Jerome Bonaparte (1784-1860) and Katharina, Princess of Wurtemberg (1783-1835).
Her fabulous collection of jewels was renowned as being one of the most extravagant in Europe, second only to that of Empress Eugenie herself.>> more details >>

After her death in 1904, Princess Mathilde's jewels were auctioned in Paris.

Cartier bought the "corsage spray in the form of a fully open rose and two rose buds, with eleven leaves set entirely in very fine Brazilian brilliants, now known as the "Tudor Rose". And sold it to Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, the "Queen of New York society".

As the wife of one of America's wealthiest "robber barons", Mrs. Vanderbilt amassed a jewelry collection of great importance. The Vanderbilts were among the most influential of the new American aristocracy and Cartier furnished the family dynasty with European crown jewels as well as spectacular custom pieces.

Above in the picture, also some other items of her jewels:

The magnificent diamond-necklace with hanging pear-shaped and round diamonds made by Cartier for her in 1908.

The breathtaking "stomacher" in the new design of the periode, hanging like a sash between 2 large diamond bow-brooches, cascades of diamond-fringes and large tassels of diamond, matching to the couture gowns of Paul Poiret, Paris, also made by Cartier for her in 1910.

The enormous diamond tiara in the picture, is not from Cartier.....(Boucheron or Chaumet ??)
The value of her jewellery casket was $ 1 000 000,-- , after those collections of Mrs Rockefeller, Astor and other Vanderbilt ladys.
By the 1850s, the Vanderbilts were wealthier than any “Old Society” their invitations are like fairy-tales, elegant and stylish at their house, Alice and Cornelius Vanderbilt built the most splendid of the 5th Avenue Vanderbilt homes; the address was #1 57th Street, ...more

In 1972, the Tudor Rose again passed hands and was sold by Christie's Geneva to a private collector. It was from this collector that Fred Leighton also a famous jeweller,was able to purchase it, and make it the keystone of his personal Collection.
Known today as the 'Tudor Rose', an oblique reference to the fifteenth century English union between the royal houses of Lancaster and York, this brooch is partie to an incredible past. Journeying from the French salon of Napoleon III to the American aristocracy of the early 1900s. source:cartier

 

 

 

Edith Vanderbilt Dresser Stuyvesant Jewels| Boucheron Ruby Diamond Tiara and Brooch| Ruby Parure Wedding Gifts

Corbeille de Mariage Edith Vanderbilt Dresser Stuyvesant | Boucheron Rubies Collier

THE TUDOR ROSE A MAGNIFICENT ANTIQUE DIAMOND CORSAGE BROOCH, BY THEODORE FESTER| Vanderbilt Jewels

Grace Wilson-Vanderbilt 1870-1953 |Cartier| Stomacher Necklace Diamond | Jewel History

 

 

 


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