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The Harcourt | Olivel Leaf Diamond Bandeau Tiara from Boucheron|British Royal Jewel HistoryThe Harcourt diamond bandeau tiara was commissioned from Boucheron in London on 18 July 1924, only four months before the marriage of the Hon. Doris Margaret Thérèse Harcourt to the Hon. Alexander Francis St Vincent Baring, later 6th Baron Ashburton. The jewel was almost certainly intended as a wedding gift from her mother, Mary Ethel, Viscountess Harcourt, née Burns, to her eldest daughter Doris. Although Doris did not wear a diamond tiara for the church ceremony, choosing instead a fashionable pearl bandeau with her tulle veil, this Boucheron diamond bandeau belongs directly to the group of jewels surrounding her marriage. The tiara is an openwork platinum bandeau, set throughout with old brilliant-cut, old single-cut and rose-cut diamonds. At the centre is a pear-shaped diamond drop, the principal old brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.60 carats. Around it unfold scrolls, quatrefoils and stylised olive or laurel leaves, gradually increasing in scale towards the centre. The remaining diamonds weigh approximately 85 carats in total. The tiara measures 48 cm in inner circumference, with a height ranging from 1.0 cm to 4.2 cm, and is preserved with its fitted case by Boucheron, 180 New Bond Street, London. It bears French assay marks and is accompanied by a Boucheron Authenticity Report confirming the commission date of 18 July 1924. Its provenance remained in the Harcourt and Ashburton family: Mary Ethel, Viscountess Harcourt, née Burns
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The marriage of the Hon. Doris Margaret Thérèse Harcourt, eldest daughter of the late Viscount Harcourt and Viscountess Harcourt of Nuneham Park and 69 Brook Street, took place at St Margaret’s, Westminster. The bridegroom was the Hon. Alexander Francis St Vincent Baring, only son of Lord Ashburton and the late Lady Ashburton.
The ceremony was conducted by the Dean of Windsor, assisted by the Rector of Nuneham Courtenay and the Rev. W. H. Morgan of St Margaret’s. The bride arrived with her mother and was met at the entrance to the church by her brother, Viscount Harcourt, who gave her away.
Doris Harcourt wore a robe and train of bright silver tissue, designed on straight and simple lines. From the long bodice fell a wide square train, attached to a deep ceinture studded with large and small pearls. Her full tulle veil was held in place by a pearl bandeau, with orange blossom worn over the ears. In place of the conventional bouquet, she carried a white vellum prayer book.
The pearl bandeau was very much in keeping with the bridal fashion of the period. Instead of a formal tiara, the bride wore this lighter and more modern head ornament, complementing the silver tissue of the gown and the pearl-studded girdle.
Immediately behind the bride walked the child attendants, Master John Warrender and Miss Patricia Mulholland. Both were dressed in silver tissue: the boy in a short tunic with a silver lace collar, and the girl in a long full frock with a silver lace cap.
The bridesmaids were the Hon. Barbara Harcourt, sister of the bride; the Hon. Angela Baring, sister of the bridegroom; Miss Sylvia Paget and Miss Cynthia Burns, cousins of the bride; and Miss Olivia Baring and Miss Clare Blount, cousins of the bridegroom. They wore sheath dresses of orchid-mauve fulgurante, trimmed with georgette fringe in the same colour and finished at the sides with large georgette flowers. On their hair they wore wreaths of mauve tissue leaves, and each carried a sheaf of mauve chrysanthemums tied with silver.
The bridegroom’s gifts to the bridesmaids were double-headed jade pins. The little girl attendant received a jade pendant, while the boy was given jade cuff-links. Mr Ronald Basset acted as best man.
The wedding was attended by many members of British society and aristocracy. Among those present were Princess Beatrice, Lord and Lady Ashburton, the Dowager Lady Ashburton, the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, Countess Bathurst and Lady Apsley, the Earl and Countess of Northbrook, Countess Buxton, the Dowager Countess of Antrim, Mrs Asquith, the Spanish Ambassador and Madame Merry del Val, and many members of the Harcourt, Baring, Paget, Burns, Blount and related families.
Owing to mourning in the bridegroom’s family, the reception was limited to near relatives. After the ceremony, Viscountess Harcourt received the family circle at her house in Brook Street. The Hon. Alexander and Mrs Baring afterwards left for Wotton House, Aylesbury, lent by the Hon. Mrs Michael Beaumont, before continuing later to the South of France.
The royal wedding presents were notable. Queen Mary sent a pair of Chinese red lacquer flower pots containing coral flowers with real jade foliage. Princess Mary, Viscountess Lascelles, gave an amber cut-crystal seal. Princess Beatrice presented an antique stand fitted with gold-mounted perfume bottles, and the Queen of Spain sent an antique hand-painted fan.
The bridegroom’s presents to the bride included a ring set with white, pink and yellow diamonds, together with other jewels.
Among them was a fine diamond necklace that had belonged to his mother, the late Lady Ashburton. Lady Harcourt’s jewel gift to her daughter was described as a bangle set with precious stones in the colours of a peacock’s tail, a true work of art.
The Hon. Venetia Baring and the Hon. Angela Baring, sisters of the bridegroom, gave an eternity ring, a circlet of diamonds to be worn with the wedding ring.
The wedding thus combined the elegance of late 1920s bridal fashion with aristocratic family tradition: silver tissue, pearl ornaments, jade gifts for the bridesmaids, royal presents, inherited diamonds and intimate family jewels.
The Laurel wreath diamond tiara above, will be auctioned Exceptional Jewels, London
11 June 2026, London, New Bond Street 230.000 € - 350.000 €- by Bonhams.
Sources: The Morning Post; The Observer; The Manchester Guardian;Bonhams; Archiv Boucheron;
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