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The Harcourt | Olivel Leaf Diamond Bandeau Tiara from Boucheron|British Royal Jewel History

The Harcourt diamond bandeau tiara was commissioned from Boucheron in London on 18 July 1924, only four months before the marriage of the Hon. Doris Margaret Thérèse Harcourt to the Hon. Alexander Francis St Vincent Baring, later 6th Baron Ashburton.

The jewel was almost certainly intended as a wedding gift from her mother, Mary Ethel, Viscountess Harcourt, née Burns, to her eldest daughter Doris. Although Doris did not wear a diamond tiara for the church ceremony, choosing instead a fashionable pearl bandeau with her tulle veil, this Boucheron diamond bandeau belongs directly to the group of jewels surrounding her marriage.

The tiara is an openwork platinum bandeau, set throughout with old brilliant-cut, old single-cut and rose-cut diamonds. At the centre is a pear-shaped diamond drop, the principal old brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.60 carats. Around it unfold scrolls, quatrefoils and stylised olive or laurel leaves, gradually increasing in scale towards the centre. The remaining diamonds weigh approximately 85 carats in total.

The tiara measures 48 cm in inner circumference, with a height ranging from 1.0 cm to 4.2 cm, and is preserved with its fitted case by Boucheron, 180 New Bond Street, London. It bears French assay marks and is accompanied by a Boucheron Authenticity Report confirming the commission date of 18 July 1924.

Its provenance remained in the Harcourt and Ashburton family:

Mary Ethel, Viscountess Harcourt, née Burns


to her daughter
Doris Mary Thérèse, Baroness Ashburton, née Harcourt


and thence by descent.

The design reflects the enduring classical taste for wreath jewels. Laurel and olive leaves had long been associated with honour, victory, peace, prosperity and dynastic continuity. In the early twentieth century these antique motifs were transformed into refined platinum and diamond jewels, perfectly suited to the bandeau fashion of the 1920s.

This was also the period when bridal head ornaments often changed from high tiaras to lower bandeaux. Doris Harcourt’s wedding report describes her wearing a pearl bandeau rather than a diamond tiara, but the Boucheron commission shows that a major diamond bandeau had nevertheless been created for her wedding season.

Mary Ethel Burns, Viscountess Harcourt, was one of Boucheron’s most important private clients. Born into the wealthy American Burns and Morgan circle, she inherited not only great fortune but also a remarkable eye for jewels. Her family connections included the Morgan banking dynasty, and her own jewel collection became one of the most spectacular ever created through Boucheron.

The Harcourt collection also included the famous Harcourt emeralds, among them the emerald and diamond tiara created by Boucheron in 1904 and remodelled in 1920, as well as an emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier. These jewels were later worn at coronations by Mary Ethel Burns and by her daughter Lady Ashburton.


The Harcourt |Olive Leaf Diamond Bandeau Tiara from Boucheron|British Royal Jewel History

MARRIAGE OF THE HON. DORIS HARCOURT  BRILLIANT CEREMONY IN LONDON.  The marriage took place at St. Margaret Westminster, on Monday, of the Hon. Alexander | Francis St. Vincent Baring, late of the Royal | Scots Greys, and the Hon. Doris Margaret Thérése Harcourt, eldest daughter of the late | Viscount Harcourt and oi Viscountess Harcourt, of Nuneham Park and 69, Brook=street., The bridegroom is the only son of Lord Ashburton and of the late Lady Ashburton, The Dean of Windsor officiated, assisted by the Rev. H. Alington, Rector of Nuneham Courtenay, and the Rev. W. 11. Morgan, of St. Margaret s.  The bride arrived with her mother, and was met at the entrance to the church by her brother, Viscount Harcourt, who subsequently gave her away. Preceded by the choir am clergy, the bride and her retinue passed up the church, the choir singing   Praise, my soul, the King of Heaven.  The other music included the anthem   was glad when they said unto me  sung during the signing of the register. The bride wore a robe and train of bright silver tissue, made on straight, simple lines. From the long bodice depended a wide square train, attached to a deep ceinture studded with large and small pearls, The full tulle veil fell from a bandeau of pearls, orange tufts being worn over the ears, and she carrie  a white vef]um Prayer Book. Immediately following the bride walked, hand-in-hand, Master John Warrender and Miss Patricia Mulliolland. They were both dressed in silver tissue, the boy in a short tunic with a silver lace collar, and the girl in a long, full frock and silver lace cap. The bridesmaids were the Hon. Barbara Harcourt  sister of the bride , the Hon. Angela Baring   sister of the bridegroom , Miss Sylvia Paget and Miss Cynthia Burns  cousins of the bride . and Miss Olivia Baring and Miss Clare Blount  the bridegroom s cousins . They wore sheath frocks of orchid-mauve fulgurante, trimmed with fringe made of georgette in the same colour and finished at the sides with, two large ?eorgette blooms. On their hair were wreaths of mauve tissue leaves, and each carried a sheaf of mauve chrysanthemnms tied with silver. The bridegroom s gifts to the bridemaids were double-headed jade pins, to the little girl he gave a jade pendant and to the hoy jade cufflinks. Mr. Ronald Basset acted as best man. THE GUESTS. Viscountess Harcourt was present, with Lord and Lady Ashburton and the Yown.ger Lady Ashburton, and others in the large congregation included Princess Beatrice, Culmin the Hon. John and Mrs. Mulholland, the Hon. Venetia Baring, the Hon. Caryl and Mrs. Baring, Mr. and Mrs. Robert Harcourt, Countess Bat?urst and Lady Apsley, Sir Richard and Lady Muriel Paget and Miss Angela and Miss Pamela Paget, Edit? Countess of Winchilsea, Major Baal?our, the Hon. Frederick Baring and .Viss Evelyn Baring, the Hon. Mrs. Adams, Lady Harcourt, Lady  ea  h- Thomas and Miss Thomas, the Hon. Mrs. Guy Burinf and her sons, Lady Grace Baring, Mr. and Mrs. Blount and the Misses Blount, Viscount Hood and the Hon. Dorothy and the Hon. Sybil Hood, Mrs. Rice, Mr. and  Mrs. Walter Burns and Master Burns, Lord Revelstoke, Mr. Ceeil Baring, Mr. Evelyn Baring, Mr. Francis Baring, the Spanish Ambassador and Madame Merry del Val, the Netherlands Minister and Mlle. de Marees van Swinderen, Mrs. Kellogg, Mr. Boylston Beal, the Count and Countess de Limur, the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, the Marchioness of Sligo, the Earl and Countess of Northbrook, Countess Buxton, the Dowager Countess of Antrim, Lady Sybil Smith, the Enrl and Countess of Chesterfield. the Barl and Countess of Leven and Melville, Viscountess Sandhurst, Viscountess Hampden and the Hon. Joan Brand, Kathleen Viscountess Falmouth and the Hon. Pamela Bos-cawen. Lord Southwark, Lady Charnwood and the Hon. Antonia Benson, Tdith Lady Playfair, Lady Emmott, Lady Northeote, Lady Lawrence of Kingsgate, Lady Ludlow, Lord and Ladj Gainford, ind_v Ashcombe, Lady_ Robson, Lady Mar- Enrot Bincham and Miss Keith Fraser, Lady Jmily Dig?_v. Lady Isobel Hardy and Miss Hardy, Lady Clementine  Waring, Lady Delia Peel, Lady Joan Peake, the Hon. Mrs. North and Miss North, the Hon. Henry and Mrs. Mulholland, the Hon. Mrs. Barle and Miss Barle and Miss Dawkins, thei?on. Lady Mallet and Mr. A. Mallet, the Hon. Mrs. Henry Loyd, the Hon. Mrs. Ernest Guinness and Miss Aileen Guinness, the Hon. Mrs. Angus Macdonald, the Hon, Mrs. Dudley Ward, the Hon. Mrs. Oliver Brett, the Hon. Mrs. Maurice Brett, the Hon. Mrs. Alexander Hardinge, the Hon. Roland and Mrs. Cubitt, the Hon. Lady K.eppel  and the Misses Képvl. the Hon. Mrs. Michael Beaumont, the Hon. Mrs, John Gilmour, the Hon. Mrs. Abercromby, the Hon. Harold and Mrs. Deni<on. the Hon. Ruby Hardinge, the Hon. Evelyn Fitz Gerald, Sir Robert and Lady Frances Gre ley, Lady Byles, Lady Strachey, ady Roxburgh, Lady Henderson and Miss Angela Henderson, Lady  Charles  Henry, Sir Edward and I.adsy O Malley, Lady Robert Hudson and Miss S.  VBrien, Lady  Charles  Jessel and the Misses Jossel. Admiral Sir Michael and Lady Culme- Seymour, Major-General Sir Henry and Ladi Hodgson, Sir Viector and Lady Warrender_an Master Simon Warrendor, Sir John and Lady Simon. Sir Egerton and Lady Hamond-Graeme, Sir Robert Buckell, Sir Frank and Lady Newnes, Lady Falle, Mr. and Mrs. Donald Post, Mrs. Freyberg, Mrs,  .arnegie, Mrs. Austin Cix_amberlam, Mrs. Hugh Durnford, Mrs. P. Hamilton, Mrs. Hartman. Miss Sandys, Mr. Alfred Mildmay, Mrs. Frederick Sterling, Mrs. Charles Leslie and Miss Teslie, Mrs. Robert Flemini, Mrs. Asquith, Miss Hilary Wilson, Miss Farquharson, Mrs. Bulteel, Mrs. Rudolph de Trafford, Mr. A, Balfour, Lieut.- Colonel anx Mrs. C. Heseltine, Mrs. Basset, Mr. M. S. Knight-Gregson, Mrs. Grifith Hawkins, Mrs. A. Fe?ing. Mrs. Coombes, Mrs. Henry Sturgis, Mr. R. O. Hermon, Nurse Rosa Smith, Mr. and Mre. F. D. Hunt and Miss Hunt, Mrs. Carlton Hackney, Mrs. Gi_lles Mrs. Hojdltch, Mrs. Frederick Post and Miss t, Mrs. Priestley, Miss Stephenson, the Misses Munn, Dr. and Mrs. Hobson, Mrs. Villiers Hatton, Mrs. Julian Stugls, Mrs. Moreton, Miss Beresford, Mr. Maguire, Mrs, Warmington and Miss Warmington, Mrs. Re%gmld Ceenl. Mr. Harcourt Johnstone, Mr. C. R. Woolcombe, Mr. W. B?i!ls, Mr. and Mrs. J. A. Spen. der. Mr. and Mrs. Edward Grenfell, Mr. Lancelot Smith, Miss Dolores Grenfell, Mrs. J. L Buchanan, Mrs. E. Beresford, Captain Wright, Colonel French, Mr. and Mrs, Cowtan, the &v. C. G. and Mrs, Ward, Mrs. Hartigan and Mrs J A. Hartigan. E After the ceremony Viscountess Harcourt held  reception at her house in Brook-street, Whlcl l  in consequence of mourninf in the bridegroomT family. was attended by only near relatives. The  1 Hon. Alexander and Mrs. Baring afterwards left for Wotton House, Aylesbury, lent by the Hon. Mrs, Michasl Beaumont, and later they will proceed to the South of France. i The Queen sent the bride and bridegroom a pair of Chinese red lacquer flower pots, containing coral flowers, with real jade fofiage Princoss Mary Viscountess Lascelles gave an amber cut | crystal seal: Princess Beatrice an antique stand | filled with gold-mounted perfume hottles zmd  the Queen of Spain an antique hand-painted fan. | The presents included: From the tenants of Stan- | ton har mn t and Northmoor, a silver bowl on a Jlinth the households of 69, Brook-street, Nune- | imm Park and Vernon Lodge and the employees of Nuneham Estate, a George 111. silver bread- | basket tenant farmers on hle Grange Estate, a | silver salver the keepers and employees on the Grange Bstate, a silver salver the household at The Grange, pair of electric lamps the villagers of Itchen Stoke, a silver cigarette-box the Dowager Lady Ashburton s _household, a leather dressing-case and brushes Baring Bros. and Co., a silver inkstand.  
ROYAL PRESENTS. While Queen Victoria invariably gave brides an Indian shawl, and Queen Alexandra s picscnt is almost always a jewelled brooch. Queen Mary owns more varied taste. Lately she has been giving drawingroom ornaments. Lady Henriione Herbert received a gold and blue china vase with lid. while the Hon. Doris Harcourt, eldest daughter of Viscountess Harcourt, who was married last week to the Hon. Alexander Baring. Lord Ashburton s heir, received a pair red lacquer Chinese jars. The Princess Mary and the Queen of Spain also sent gifts. MISS lIARUOURT S TROUSSEAU. Like many brides, Mi» Doris Harcourt choso a silver wedding dress made on simple lines, which showed off to perfection her fair golden hair, and slim, willowy figure. But for the recent death of the bridegroom s sister, it would have been large Society function as it was, Society flocked to the church, but there was no reception. . The six bridesmaids wore orchid mauve dresses of radium satin, trimmed with a new kind of fringe. Kach strand a lute of georgette, weighted with what looks like a mauve bead, hut is in reality sealing wax. Included in tho trousseau is panne velvet, trimmed with silver gatou and white coney, which is tho really smart thing for London wear, the bride s favourite colours being pink and pale turquoise blue. 

Miss Doris Harcourt s Wedding ... Beautitul] Painted Work Women of Taste Should See.  JPRINCESS BEATRICE, in a sable- & collared black fur coat and a purple toque, was one of the guests at St garet s, Westminster, at the wedding of the Hon. Doris Harcourt and the l fon. Alec Baring., Lady Harcourt arrived with her daughter, but the bride s tall young brother from Eton led her ap the nave and  fave her away, Lad _ arcourt had a mauve flower tucked into the sable coat she wore over her black gown. Two pompoms of fur came just above the ears on her gold tissue toque. Well Wrapped Up. The Duke and Duchess of Marl- borough, just back in town from Blenheim, arrived together she in pale fawn kasha edged with leopard skin and with a sable wrap round her neck. Two  flue-brus tufts of plumage protruded   from the right side of her emall hat.  Most of the women guests were very well wrapped up against the bleak wind, but Mrs. Asquith, all in black, was the only one with a muff. Lady Falle arrived just in front of me in a horse-drawn car riage and with a big wrap of cross fox over her black coat. Lady Simon, who was escorted by Sir John, had on a big sable coat: Mrs. Robert Fleming, all in brown, a kolinsky coat: Lady Hudson, who was accompanied by Miss Sheila O  Brien, a kolingky cape and the Hon. Mrs. Dudley Ward a chinchilla cape.   v precious stones, of all the colours in the  pe_cock s tail, »a  work of art. | wo of the bridegroom s sisters, the   Hon. Venetia and the Hon. Angela Baring, gave fan eternity ring, acirclet of diamonds 4 such as is often worn nowi adays aftet * le wedding ring as a foricer generation of women wore a  keep-r   ring. IFT » »Some Beautiful Jewels. TP N Y TV TR R T N The bridegroom s presents to the bride included a ring of white, pink pud vellow diamonds, besides otiter. lov Ay jewels, among them a wonderful . diamond necklace that had belonged toy his mother, the date Lady Ashburton  In Lady Harcourt s prefent of jewels to her daughter was a bangle studdedl with   v precious stones, of all the colours in the  pe_cock s tail, »a  work of art. | wo of the bridegroom s sisters, the  Hon. Venetia and the Hon. Angela Baring, gave fan eternity ring, acirclet of diamonds 4 such as is often worn nowi adays aftet  le wedding ring as a foricer generation of women wore a  keep-r 
 MISS HARCOURT S WEDDING, The Hon. Doris Harcourt wore a gown of silver tissue when she was married to the Hon. Alexander Baring, only son of Lord Ashburton, at St. Margaret s, Westminster, on Monday. She had a tulle veil held in place by a pearl bandeau and knots of orange blossom. She had a pearl girdle and a pt-urr necklace, and she carried a white vellum praver book in place of the more conventional bouguet. Her child attendants-Miss Patricia . lulhulluml and Master John Warrender-wore silver tissue and the following bridesmaids orchid-mauve satin fulguranté with Russian bandeaux of mauve tissue leaves. «They carried bouquets of mauve chrysanthemums tied with silver ribbon, The bride s travelling costume consisted of dark red Milanese silk, a grey squirrel coat and grey felt hat trimmed with grey squirrel. SOME OF THE GUESTS, Those present in the church included Princess Beatrice, attended by Miss Minnie Cochrane, and Colonel Packe, the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, the Hon. Mrs. North and Miss North, Sir John and Lady Simon and Mrs. Asquith. Among the circle of relations and intimate friends were Viscountess Harcourt mother-in-law, Lord Ashburton father of the bridegroom, Lady Ashburton step-mother, the Dowager Ladv Ashburton, the hun. Venetia Baring, the Hon. Caryl and Mrs. Baring, the Hon. Evelyn Baring, the Hon. Frederick Baring and Miss Evelyn iiaring. Lady Grace Baring, Viscount Hood, the Hon. Dorothy and Syhbil Hood, the Hon. Mrs. Guy l-larinti and her sons, Mr. and Mrs. Walter Burns, Mr, and Mrs. Robert Harcourt and the Hon. John and Mrs. Mulholland sister of the bride. There was no reception owing to mourning in the bridegroom s family. ROYAL GIFTS TO MISS HARCOURT.   The Queen s present to the Hon. Doris Harcourt was a pair of Chinese red lacquer pots. The 9ueen o? Spain _sent _an antigue painted fan from Princess Mary Viscountess Lascelles there was a vellow cut erystal seal, and from Princess Victoria an old silver stand with scent bottles. Engagement A very interesting engagement which has just taken place is that of Lord Ashburton s son and heir, the Hon. Alexander Baring, to the elder of Viscountess Harcourt s three daughters, the Hon. Doris Harcourt. The news of the engagement first leaked out during Lady Harcourt s brilliant dance on Wednesday night at her London residence in Brook-street. The bridegroom-elect served during the war in the Scots Greys, and is still on the Reserve of Officers. His fiancee is tall, blonde, and very much the out-ofdoors girl, her favourite games being golf and tennis
 
 ROYAL GIFTS. Miss Harcourt Marries Lord Ashburton s Son.  From Our Woman Correspondent  LONDON, Monday. The marriage of the Hon. Doris Harcourt, eldest daughter of the late Viscount Harcourt and of Viscountess Harcourt to Lord Ashburton s only son, the Hon. Alexander Baring, today, was honoured by the presence of Princess Beatrice. The Queen sent the bride red lacquer vases and Princess Mary yellow crystal carved seal as wedding gifts. The ceremony look place at St. Margaret s, Westminster, and was very largely attended. The young Viscount Harcourt, who is still Eton gave his sister away, and she wore a gown of plain silver tissue girdled with pearls, her exceptionally long plain tissue train being draped by her equally long and full tulle veil held by pearl bandeau.
 The six bridesmaids, all sisters or cousins, were in orchid mauve fulgurantc, edged with fringe, and the little train-bearers, Patricia Mulholland and John Warrender, wore costumes of the samo material as the bride s gown with silver lace collars. There was reception owing to naourning in the family, but those at the church, in addition to the Princees and many members of the Baring and Harcourt families, included Mrs. Asquith, Mrs. Austen Chamberlain. Mrs. Kellogg wife of the American Ambassador, the Spanish Ambassador and Madame Merry Del Val, the Dutch Minister and his daughter, Lady Joan Peake, the Duke and Duchess Marlborough, the Countess of Lucan, the Countess of Wmchilsea and Nottingham, the Countess Buxton, Lord and Lady Gainford. and about 150 of Lord Ashburton s tenants at Alresford. 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The Wedding of the Hon. Doris Harcourt and the Hon. Alexander Baring

The marriage of the Hon. Doris Margaret Thérèse Harcourt, eldest daughter of the late Viscount Harcourt and Viscountess Harcourt of Nuneham Park and 69 Brook Street, took place at St Margaret’s, Westminster. The bridegroom was the Hon. Alexander Francis St Vincent Baring, only son of Lord Ashburton and the late Lady Ashburton.

The ceremony was conducted by the Dean of Windsor, assisted by the Rector of Nuneham Courtenay and the Rev. W. H. Morgan of St Margaret’s. The bride arrived with her mother and was met at the entrance to the church by her brother, Viscount Harcourt, who gave her away.

Doris Harcourt wore a robe and train of bright silver tissue, designed on straight and simple lines. From the long bodice fell a wide square train, attached to a deep ceinture studded with large and small pearls. Her full tulle veil was held in place by a pearl bandeau, with orange blossom worn over the ears. In place of the conventional bouquet, she carried a white vellum prayer book.

The pearl bandeau was very much in keeping with the bridal fashion of the period. Instead of a formal tiara, the bride wore this lighter and more modern head ornament, complementing the silver tissue of the gown and the pearl-studded girdle.

Immediately behind the bride walked the child attendants, Master John Warrender and Miss Patricia Mulholland. Both were dressed in silver tissue: the boy in a short tunic with a silver lace collar, and the girl in a long full frock with a silver lace cap.

The bridesmaids were the Hon. Barbara Harcourt, sister of the bride; the Hon. Angela Baring, sister of the bridegroom; Miss Sylvia Paget and Miss Cynthia Burns, cousins of the bride; and Miss Olivia Baring and Miss Clare Blount, cousins of the bridegroom. They wore sheath dresses of orchid-mauve fulgurante, trimmed with georgette fringe in the same colour and finished at the sides with large georgette flowers. On their hair they wore wreaths of mauve tissue leaves, and each carried a sheaf of mauve chrysanthemums tied with silver.

The bridegroom’s gifts to the bridesmaids were double-headed jade pins. The little girl attendant received a jade pendant, while the boy was given jade cuff-links. Mr Ronald Basset acted as best man.

The wedding was attended by many members of British society and aristocracy. Among those present were Princess Beatrice, Lord and Lady Ashburton, the Dowager Lady Ashburton, the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, Countess Bathurst and Lady Apsley, the Earl and Countess of Northbrook, Countess Buxton, the Dowager Countess of Antrim, Mrs Asquith, the Spanish Ambassador and Madame Merry del Val, and many members of the Harcourt, Baring, Paget, Burns, Blount and related families.

Owing to mourning in the bridegroom’s family, the reception was limited to near relatives. After the ceremony, Viscountess Harcourt received the family circle at her house in Brook Street. The Hon. Alexander and Mrs Baring afterwards left for Wotton House, Aylesbury, lent by the Hon. Mrs Michael Beaumont, before continuing later to the South of France.

The royal wedding presents were notable. Queen Mary sent a pair of Chinese red lacquer flower pots containing coral flowers with real jade foliage. Princess Mary, Viscountess Lascelles, gave an amber cut-crystal seal. Princess Beatrice presented an antique stand fitted with gold-mounted perfume bottles, and the Queen of Spain sent an antique hand-painted fan.

The bridegroom’s presents to the bride included a ring set with white, pink and yellow diamonds, together with other jewels.

Among them was a fine diamond necklace that had belonged to his mother, the late Lady Ashburton. Lady Harcourt’s jewel gift to her daughter was described as a bangle set with precious stones in the colours of a peacock’s tail, a true work of art.
The Hon. Venetia Baring and the Hon. Angela Baring, sisters of the bridegroom, gave an eternity ring, a circlet of diamonds to be worn with the wedding ring.

The wedding thus combined the elegance of late 1920s bridal fashion with aristocratic family tradition: silver tissue, pearl ornaments, jade gifts for the bridesmaids, royal presents, inherited diamonds and intimate family jewels.


The Laurel wreath diamond tiara above, will be auctioned Exceptional Jewels, London
11 June 2026, London, New Bond Street 230.000 € - 350.000 €- by Bonhams.

Sources: The Morning Post; The Observer; The Manchester Guardian;Bonhams; Archiv Boucheron;


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