Patiala Diamond Choker Collar - Mughal India Jewels | Maharaja of Patiala, Yadavindra Singh |Royal Diamond Necklace Collier de Chien

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Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala (1891-1938), ruled the princely state of Patiala from 1900 to 1938. Best known for his extravagant lifestyle, Bhupindar Singh believed in excess and had an insatiable appetite for women, food, travel, sports, politics and every day luxuries. Legend tells that he had a motorcade of over twenty Rolls-Royce, which would transport the Maharaja along with his countless wives, aides, servants and staff, when traveling in Europe.
Bhupindar Singh was born into a family accustomed to over-indulgence and expenditure. His father, Rajendra Singh 1872-1900 was even more gluttonous with his spending than his son. Often traveling to Europe to acquire new treasures, he was the first Maharaja to marry a European woman and the first to import a motor car to India – specifically a French De Dion-Bouton with the license plate ‘Patiala 0’.
When Rajendra Singh died in 1900, a council of regency took over the state as Bhupindar Singh was only nine years old at the time. Spoilt beyond belief, the young Maharaja enjoyed the same luxuries that his father did, inheriting some of the most incredible jewels of the time, including the De Beers yellow diamond of approximately 234.50 carats – which he later had mounted by Cartier and a grand Western style diamond-set tiara.
A key patron to English and French luxury firms during the early 20th century, the Maharaja of Patiala was a frequent client of Asprey, Boucheron, Cartier, Garrard and many others. Heir to a treasury of the finest gemstones and diamonds, the Maharaja brought truckloads of jewels and stones for the firms to work with.
In the mid-1920s, the Maharaja supplied Cartier with countless gemstones from his treasury to be reset and redesigned. He preferred platinum over gold and requested jewels be made for himself as well as his many wives and concubines.
One of the most impressive jewels to derive from the collaboration between Cartier and Patiala was an incredible ruby, natural pearl and diamond multi-layer necklace. Worn in a famous portrait of the Maharaja and his many wives and consorts, ‘The Patiala Choker’, is a surviving portion of this superb masterpiece.
As with many jewels from the 1920s and 1930s, the necklace was eventually reset and restyled to adapt to evolving trends. In 2012, the necklace was restored and restrung to its original design by Cartier Tradition. Considered by the firm to be one of the most important necklaces ever made, the ‘Patiala Choker’ represents one of the greatest relationships that developed during this period and truly captures the romance between the East and West in the early part of the 20th century.

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Patiala Diamond Collar | Famous Mughal India Jewels

Patiala Diamond Halsband

Yadavindra Singh war der Nachfolger und Sohn von Bhupindar Singh, keiner der indischen Großfürsten umgab sich mit so auffälligem Prunk wie Bhupindar Singh, der Maharadscha von Patiala (1891-1938). Mit unersättlicher Gier sammelte er Diamanten, Perlen, Juwelen und Schmuckstücke.

Der Maharaja bestellte 1928 bei Cartier für sich ein eng am Hals liegendes Brillant-Halsband aus runden, umlaufenden Gliedern. In der Mitte sitzt jeweils ein großer, gelber Diamant, die sicher aus dem Besitz des Maharajas stammen. Diese Steine wurden später einmal entfernt und es dauerte für die Restauration acht Monate um entsprechenden Ersatz zu finden. Das rekonstruierte Collier wurde danach zum ersten Mal auf der Biennale des Antiquaires im Jahren gezeigt.

Oben im Bild Yadavindra Singh, der ein weiteres bemerkenswertes Schmuckstück ist im Foto abgebildet, das berühmte Kollier mit dem "De Beers", einem goldgelben Diamanten von 234,5 Karat. Die Geschichte dieses Kolliers ist ein Abenteuer, wie es in einem Kriminalroman nicht besser hätte beschreiben können. Sie steht für die "Goldenen 20er Jahre", in denen sich Glanz und Pracht der Maharadschas zum letzten Mal voll entfalteten. Fürstenfeste, Prunkhochzeiten und der ganze Reichtum, mit dem sich die Singh-Familie umgab, werden anhand des Familienarchivs des Maharadschas dokumentiert. Nach der Weltwirtschaftskrise von 1929 und dem Zusammenbruch des britischen Kolonialreichs ist diese Märchenwelt dem Untergang geweiht. Und als 1971 die Regierung Indira Gandhis ein Gesetz über die Abschaffung des Staatsschatzes erließ, verloren die Maharadschas endgültig ihre Titel und Vorrechte. Schmuck durfte nicht mehr außer Landes gebracht werden. In den Irrungen und Wirrungen dieser Umbruchszeit verschwand das Kollier von Patiala.

Die Maharani von Patiala, Yadavindra Singh's Frau besass eines der schönen Lovers knot Diademe

Patiala Diamond Collar | Famous Mughal India Jewels

The Collar of white and yellow diamonds was made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala, using the maharaja diamonds, who gave Cartier the biggest single commission ever received from one client. In requesting Cartier Paris remodel his crown jewels between 1925 and 1928.

It's includet also the "bib" - the large and colossal diamond necklace of traditionel Indian form with multiple strands, but set in platinum, instead of gold., incorporatiing the 234,69carat De Beers diamond. It passed to his heir above in the photo, wearing this necklace. Yadavindra Singh Maharaja from Patiala pictured in 1941 in all his splendor with jewels, diamonds and ropes of pearls from his treasure. Yadavindra Singh 1913-1974, was Punjabi Indian royalty of the princely state of Patiala.

He succeeded his father, Bhupinder Singh, as the Maharaja of Patiala on 23 March 1938, but agreed to the incorporation of the princely state into India on 5 May 1948. He was Rajpramukh of the new Indian state of Patiala and East Punjab States Union until it was merged with Punjab in 1956.

Rosita Forbes discribed a visit to the Patiala armoury in 1939: the famous Patiala emeralds, each as large as a dessert spoon and a necklace which, when I tried it on, covered half my person with steams and lakes of damonds, It was set by Cartier and contained pink, yellow, greenish and what I should call pale brown diamonds, all as large as my thumb-nails.

source: cartier 1900-1939

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