THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY
13149214 dated 26 January 2004 from the Gemological Institute of America
stating that the diamond is D color, VS1 clarity; accompanied by a working
diagram stating the the clarity is potentially flawless
Provenance Nanaline Duke, and by descent to Doris Duke
The King of Diamonds
The name Tiffany & Co. has long been associated with fine and important diamonds.
The founder, Charles Louis Tiffany, was nicknamed the "King of Diamonds" during the late 1800s when his
firm began purchasing fabulous diamonds from aristocratic European estates. Over the course of the past hundred years, Tiffany & Co. has cut, sold and collected some of the most magnificent stones in the world.
By the early 1840s, the American company had built up enough capital to enter the high-end gold and diamond jewelry market; but soon enough they became aware that their Parisian and London workshops could not meet
their demand. Tiffany met this challenge by scouring all of Europe for diamonds.
Eighteenth century diamond jewelry belonging to European aristocracy was an excellent source. The turbulence created by the French Revolution had increased supply, and hence the value of aristocratic jewels had dropped dramatically.
Tiffany & Co. purchased important stones from renowned collections including the estate of the Hungarian Prince Esterhazy, from the noblest and richest family in Hungary; the "jewel-mad" Duke of Brunswick, including a 30 carat canary diamond; and the acquisition of the Spanish Crown Jewels.
In 1887, the firm purchased a major share of the French Crown Jewels that had once belonged to Empress Eugenie. These magnificent jewels were brought back to America and soon adorned the newly wealthy industrial class. Perhaps the most remarkable of Tiffany's acquisitions was the purchase of a 287.42 cts. rough diamond from the Compagnie Francaise de Diamant du Cap Mine, a branch of the Kimberley mine, in 1877.
It was cut in Paris to the current weight of 128.54 carats and named "The Tiffany Diamond". This was the largest flawless yellow diamond the world had ever seen.
The twentieth century witnessed a renewed interest in diamonds and the designers at Tiffany & Co. pioneered the trend. The firm continued to mount important gems into jewelry including the ring illustrated.
This ring, dating from 1935, is a magnificent example of both Nanaline Duke's exquisite taste and the importance
of Tiffany's diamonds. The 19.72 carat cushion-cut stone is elegantly mounted in platinum with delicate diamond-set shoulders.
Typical of stones this size, the cushion-cut makes an understated and lovely outline.
The cushion-cut is a transitional cut, linking the old mine with the old European.
Most likely, Mrs. Duke's stone is of Golconda origin. This ledgendary Indian mine produced some of the most spectacular diamonds of the world including the Koh-I-noor, the Hope and the Agra which were all cut in the same cushion outline. According to Doris Duke's biography by Stephanie Mansfield, Mrs. Duke lost this diamond ring at a bridge party. Thankfully, it was returned to her.
The Duke Collection:
EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
BY FULCO DI VERDURA
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB