Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin rubies DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION ARubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin rubiesDORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin rubies DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION
Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION
Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION Rubine,Koralle,Ruby,Rubin rubies DORIS DUKE Jewel COLLECTION

THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

 

VERDURA Brooch


Designed as a red-stained and painted ivory camel, enhanced by cultured
pearls, seed pearls and diamond collet, surmounted by a painted ivory
warrior with a seed pearl and carved ruby shield, a polished gold, triangular-cut diamond
and carved ruby turban, wearing a diamond collet necklace and earrings, mounted in 18k gold,
circa 1940

Provenance Verdura, 25 May 1940, $400

In 1939, a woman came to Verdura's showroom selling a set of 18th Century painted ivory
chessman from India. He bought all of them and transformed
them into exquisite bejeweled brooches. Inspired by the Dinglingers' work in
the Dresden Green Vaults, the elaborate pieces sold out. Some of the brooches were
accompanied by a stand to be displayed.

For illustrations and literature on the Chessman brooches, please refer to Patricia Corbett, "Verdura: The Life and
Work of a Master Jeweler", Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 2002, page 111




SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB


Designed as a multi-strand ruby bead fringe, accented by cultured pearls, measuring
approximately 9.70 mm, to the ruby bead and polished gold neckchain and cultured pearl
and ruby bead floret clasp, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1969, 16 ins., in a David Webb black
suede case
Signed Webb for David Webb

Doris Duke commissioned this necklace from David Webb using three single-strands of pearls,
14 loose pearls and 1136 ruby beads she provided. The invoice for $4,000 was paid in full on
10 October 1969.


David Webb

opened shop in the late 1940s in New York's jewelry district, but it wasn't until the early 1960s
that Webb's popularity soared and he established himself as the quintessential American jeweler.

He relocated to Fifty Seventh Street where he sold his designs to private clients in an upstairs salon, while
maintaining relationships with Bonwit Teller and Bergdorf Goodman.
The 1960s were a period of change in American culture, as women gained greater independence and confidence;
and David Webb captured that sentiment to create bold jewels that make a statement for the wearer. He was
enamored of unusual gemstones, baroque pearls, and semi-precious stones, which he combined in modern and
innovative designs

David Webb attracted a celebrity clientele. The Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy visited
his New York boutique and purchased his jewels and President Kennedy commissioned several gifts of State from him.
Doris Duke began to frequent David Webb's boutique in the early 1960s and often selected suites
of jewels. She purchased dangling ear pendants, brightly colored necklaces and other bold pieces including.
It is not surprising that Doris Duke felt an affinity for David Webb's designs. Webb often used imagery from the
Far East based on his studies of 18th century jewels from Jaipur, India.
Doris Duke's life-long fascination with Indian jewelry and art began decades earlier and made
Webb a natural choice for the commission of the Indian inspired fringe necklace, and the emerald bead necklace.
Miss Duke actually supplied the cultured pearls, rubies and emeralds for
the designs.A the large cultured pearl and diamond ear pendants are also of obvious Indian inspiration.

 

 

The Duke Collection:

DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE, By CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

Pearl Earrings Pendants Perlenohrhänger |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

VERDURA BROOCH |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

 

 

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