MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
The pear-shaped diamond pendant, within an openwork single-cut diamond frame, enhanced by three pear-shaped diamond tassel terminals, suspended by a pearl, measuring approximately 8.80 mm, from a similarly-designed cushion-cut diamond plaque, joined to the four-strand pear, marquise and French-cut diamond festoons, with single and old European-cut diamond trim and florets, further enhanced by an old European-cut diamond openwork clasp of geometric design, mounted in platinum, circa 1908 Diamanten-Perlen-Collier des Belle Epoque  |    Sarà battuta all'asta il 2 giugno da Christie's a New York questa parure di Cartier formata da un collier valutato 800 mila-1,2 milioni di dollari (670 mila-1 milione di euro) e da una corona di 150-200 mila dollari (125-170 mila euro), appartenuta all'ereditiera Doris Duke. Il ricavato andrà alla fondazione caritatevole intitolata alla stessa Duke
Mr. Duke collaborated with Cartier in the creation of this necklace and supplied some of the larger diamonds. Originally designed as a sautoir, Cartier finally adapted the design to create this magnificent object Provenance James B. Duke; Cartier Paris, 24 December 1908, 18,500 Francs

THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

  MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER


The pear-shaped diamond pendant, within an openwork single-cut diamond frame, en-
hanced by three pear-shaped diamond tassel terminals, suspended by a pearl, measuring approximately 8.80 mm, from a similarly-designed cushion-cut diamond plaque, joined to
the four-strand pear, marquise and French-cut diamond festoons, with single and old
European-cut diamond trim and florets, further enhanced by an old European-cut diamond openwork clasp of geometric design, mounted in platinum, circa 1908

Provenance James B. Duke; Cartier Paris, 24 December 1908, 18,500 Francs

Mr. Duke collaborated with Cartier in the creation of this necklace and supplied some of
the larger diamonds. Originally designed as a sautoir, Cartier finally adapted the design
to create this magnificent object.

Edward VII's ascension to the British throne upon the death of his mother, Queen Victoria, in 1901 marked the beginning of the Belle Epoque. Literally meaning 'beautiful era', it was a time when elegance was valued above all else in fashion and jewelry. The upper and middle classes flourished, especially in America, and indulged in clothing and jewels that expressed their wealth.


At the turn of the century, Cartier was establishing itself as one of the preeminent jewelers to the elites of Paris, London and New York. Their designs paralleled the fashions of the day: upswept hair and low necklines in the evening leant ever more importance to necklaces.

Dog collars, sautoirs and lavalieres were popular styles, as was the garland style festoon necklace represented by this example.

The garland, or neoclassical style incorporating ribbon, swag and bow motifs, was popular following the sale of the French Crown Jewels in 1887.

The House of Cartier's innovations with platinum contributed to its ability to rework neoclassical designs in a newly light and flexible way. Although stronger than silver, which had been favored to display diamonds, platinum is less flexible, which prompted Cartier's designers to construct articulated jewels with hinged elements to create easy movement.
This necklace, is a magnificent example of a Belle Epoque diamond, pearl and platinum garland necklace by Cartier. It ranks as one of the most important and beautiful necklaces representing this era, both for the luxurious elegance of the design and for the opulence of the diamonds. James B. Duke provided the firm with some of the diamonds employed. The original invoice from Cartier's Rue de la Paix boutique is dated 24 December 1908.

The Duke Collection:

DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE, By CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

Pearl Earrings Pendants Perlenohrhänger |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

VERDURA BROOCH |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector

 

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