THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY
of Indian influences and gemstones into jewels was one of Cartier's greatest
the Art Deco period.
Jacques Cartier first grew enamored of Indian jewels at the turn of the 19th century. As the director of Cartier
London, he was exposed to the lavish jewels of the Indian princes who often visited Britain. Jacques himself
traveled to India in 1911 in an effort to establish Cartier's reputation among the Indian elite. Over time, he
gained their admiration and respect, and the Indian elite entrusted Cartier to re-set and transform their jewels
into modern designs, incorporating traditional motifs.
Indian tradition held that gems were a permanent investment. As they were passed from generation to generation ,
they would constantly be reset and jewels reinvented with old stones.
Parisian styles and fashion fascinated the Indian elite of this time, so they were eager to have Cartier reinterpret
their family treasures.
At the same time, as travel increased between the two continents, not only did Parisian styles grow in popularity
in India, but Indian fashion and design became prevalent in Europe as well.
Cartier began to purchase whatever precious gems were available in India, including delicately carved emeralds,
sapphires and rubies. Many of these stones were incorporated into
Cartier's Tutti Frutti jewels. Fine quality gems cut en cabochon were often used to reinterpret Mughal motifs from
art of the Mughal Empire, which merged Hindu and Persian elements.
This bracelet, incorporates three of the most valued gems in Indian jewels: emeralds, pearls and diamonds.
The richly-saturated cabochon emeralds are the focal point of the bracelet, the bold, geometric plaque, trimmed
by diamonds, extends diamond and emerald accents to the simple four-strand pearl bracelet and Art Deco diamond
clasp. The bracelet is an excellent example of Cartier's interpretation of Mughal jewels.
It is also interesting in the context of Doris Duke's collection as her purchase of the bracelet and clip in December
1934 preceded her first trip to India and the advent of her passion for collecting Mughal jewelry.
In February 1935, Doris Duke married James Cromwell, and the newlyweds spent most of the remainder of the year
on their honeymoon in India. It was during this trip that Miss Duke was
first captivated by Indian culture, especially the decorative and jeweled arts. The couple bought carpets, ivory
carvings, tiles, jade, bronzes, clothing and jewels. Later, Doris collected Indian jewels in abundance, delighting
in their heritage as much as in their decorative element.
As with all of her jewels, Doris Duke exhibited refined taste in selection as well as the redesign of some pieces
to her preference.
The Duke Collection:
EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
BY FULCO DI VERDURA
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB