Above the five ornaments of the tiara of Beatrice Mills, Countess Granard.The large koskoshnik diadem of diamonds are made for her in 1937, a truly magnificent tiara of oriental inspiration.
It's sweeping line is accentuated by parallel rows. Brilliant and pear-shaped stones of great value are incorporated into the design; some are old-cut and must have come from the Granard family collection.
She was a regular client of Cartier London and was one of the last great buyers of kokoshniks, she ordered a delicately wrought model made of 435 seed pearls with diamond embroidery in the centre in 1922.
Another in 1923 with its sixteen aquamarine beads, sapphires and pearls archieved what for the time was a novel effect of colour.
One wonders wheather it was the very last of Lady Granards kokoshniks with ist priceless diamond drops and heavy helmet-like form to wear it on the coronation of George VI.
Beatrice Countess of Granard 1883-1972, who was born Beatrice Mills, daughter of the great American fnancier and banker Ogden Mills. A famous hostess and race horse owner and breeder, winner of the Grand Prix as women, she married in 1909 the 8th Earl of Granard. She lived between London, Paris and Castle Forbes in Ireland.
The three brooches of five, are illustrated as being the central part of the tiara (signed Cartier London) as well as two side panels (numbered 2 and 5). It was very common for jewellers to create tiaras or necklaces with detachable pieces, for them to be worn diferent ways on diferent occasions
Using the old pear-shaped diamond of 13.74 carats, cushion-shaped diamonds of 7.54 and 6.15 carats, old and circular-cut diamonds, platinum and gold, 1937.
Later an imitation pearl and diamond setting was made for wear as a necklace, brooches 5.2 and 4.5 cm, necklace 34.0 cm, one brooch signed Cartier London, the other two brooches nos. 2 and 5
The three art deco brooches, will be offered at Christie's Geneve in November 2019 US$180,000-220,000.
First sold at Christie's Saint Moritz, 17 February 1994.
Source:Nadelhoffer;G. Munn, Tiaras Past and Present, London, V&A Publishing;The San Francisco call;Christie's;Cartier Nussbaumer; "Daily Mail" Telegraphs;
::::::::::::::