Princess Marie Louise owned a magnificent tiara of diamonds, pearls and sapphires of Indian inspiration. It is signed by Henri Lavabre, who worked exclusively for Cartier between 1906 and 1921. In 1937, Princess Marie-Louise purchased this Cartier tiara originally commissioned by Lady Granard. It is not known when Cartier store the princess purchased the tiara, probably Lady Granard sold this back to Cartier to offset the costs of her new immense tiara made at the same time 1937c.
Geoffrey Munn noted the inspiration from across the Islamic world, in Tiaras: A History of Splendour describes the tiara as "An impressive diadem in the Indian taste, set with diamonds, sapphires and pearls. Each of the sapphires has been individually cut to fit the composition. The graduated pinnacles appear to be hatched by sapphires on the right-hand side. This may be a clever visual pun or it may be a genuine misinterpretation of the artist's work in the original design. Although this technique is rare it is not unique and appears from time to time in the photographic records of Cartier Paris. So too does another version of this jewel and for these reasons an attribution to the famous firm seems safe in this instance."
In 1953, Cecil Beaton took Princess Marie Louise's picture marking her fourth time participating in the coronation of a British monarch. She is wearing her Cartier tiara and also wearing on her right wrist the diamond bracelets (convertible from a choker) which she received from her parents as a wedding gift (see picture above left). Her wedding photograph shows her wearing it as its choker.
The indian tiara was presumably left to Marie Louise's godson, Prince Richard of Gloucester, now the Duke of Gloucester. It has been worn by his wife the Duchess of Gloucester at many important state events.
Princess Marie Louise also owned another important jewel by Cartier. It was a pearl, diamond, and onyx pendant brooch with a large central pearl. Around 1910, black and white became a fashionable form of colour contrast which lead to new forms of "mourning jewellery" set with onyx and diamond. The Princess's brooch is Art Deco in style and also worne by her sister Princess Helena Victoria.
The brooch was left by the Princess to her cousin Lady Patricia Ramsay, who later sold it at auction.
Thank you to Laura!
Sources: Munn, Geoffrey C. Tiaras: A History of Splendour; Nadelhofer, Hans. Cartier; Vachaudez, Christophe "Les Windsor et Cartier: Une fidélité centenaire”
