TIARAS TIARA Ruby Parure France | die Französischen Kronjuwelen  mit Rubinen
TIARA Ruby Parure France | die Französischen Kronjuwelen  mit Rubinen
Paul-Nicolas Menière
1745-1826 and Evrard Bapst
Pair of Bracelets Belonging to the Duchesse d'Angoulême
Gold, rubies, diamonds
L 18 cm; L 17.6 cm

This pair of bracelets is part of a jewelry set which included a diadem, a necklace, a comb, earrings, a belt and three clasps. The rubies and diamonds came from an adornment made in 1811 by the firm of Nitot for the Empress Marie-Louise. On his accession, Louis XVIII had the imperial jewels dismantled and brought up to date. In 1816, Menière reset Marie-Louis's rubies and diamonds -following designs by his son-in-law Evrard Bapst- for the duchesse d'Angoulême. The Duchesse de Berry and the Empress Eugénie also wore this ensemble.

Ruby Parure France | die Französischen Kronjuwelen  mit Rubinen

TIARAS : Die Französischen Kronjuwelen mit Rubinen

Rubin - Parure der französischen Krone

Diese atemberaubende Rubin Tiara aus dem sagenhaften Schatz der französischen Krone soll jetzt im Besitz von Niarchos sein, seine Frau trug sie anlässlich der Hochzeit von König Konstantin von Griechenland mit Prinzessin Annemarie in Athen.

Oben eines der wenigen Bilder von dieser Tiara im Orginal.

Zu dieser Parure gehören auch ein paar Armbänder mit Rubinen und Diamanten die jetzt im Louvre ausgestellt sind. Das Collier wurde 1981 mit 900 000 SFR versteigert, der Verbleib ist unbekannt.

Der Entwurf als Zeichnungen von Nitot ist ebenfalls erhalten >>
Aber auch eine exakte Kopie des französischen Hofjuweliers der gesamten Garnitur besetzt mit weissen Saphiren und Granaten, statt Rubinen und Diamanten >>

Chaumet - Replik II              Chaumet - Replik III           


Ruby Parure France

The Magnificent Ruby and Diamond Necklace from the Crown Jewels of France

Because of its distinguished provenance there is no mystery about the history of this majestic necklace. It was one of the crown jewels of France and come from the collection founded in 1530 by Francois Ier as a permanent monument to national superiority in the art of jewellery. Enshrining so much of the glory of France, this great treasury remained intact until This brooch originally formed part of the ruby and diamond Parure created by Ménière in 1816 to designs by his son-in-law, Evrard Bapst, who succeeded him as Jewellers to the French Crown. The Parure was made using stones from the Empress Marie-Louise's ruby and diamond Parure. Which had been commissioned by Napoleon from François-Regnault Nitot and delivered to the Crown Treasury on 16th January 1811. When the original Parure was dismantled in 1816 the principal rubies and other ornaments that could be integrated into the design without alteration were kept intact.

This magnificent Parure was created for Marie-Thérèse, Duchesse d'Angoulême  1778-1851  daughter and sole surviving child to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. In 1799 she married her first cousin, Louis-Antoine, Duc d'Angoulême. His father, as the second brother of Louis XVI, became Charles X of France, successor to Louis XVIII. On her father-in law's accession to the throne the Duchesse d'Angoulême became the Dauphine de France.

By 1825 the parure had been enriched and embellished for the Duchesse d'Angoulême to wear at the Coronation of Charles X. During his reign further enrichments were carried out and by the end of his reign in 1830 the Parure comprised one diadem, one coronet, one large and one small necklace, one large belt, one pair of bracelets, one pair of earrings, one pendant, two jewelled accessories, one rosette shaped fastener and fourteen corsage studs. The Parure was worn successively by the royal princesses and latterly by Empress Eugénie who wore it for her Wedding Banquet in 1853.

This brooch was included in the catalogue of The French Crown Jewels sold on the 12th-23rd of May 1887 in the Pavillon de Flora.

The tiara and the pair of bracelets which formed part of this Parure were sold by Sotheby's London on the 30th November 1961 as part of the 'Casket of Magnificent Jewels' sold by order of the Executors of Cornelia, Countess of Craven. The bracelets are now on display in the 'Gallerie d' Apollon' in the Louvre, having been donated by M.Claude Menier. The necklace was sold at auction in Geneva in 1982 and again in 1993, while the pendant was sold by Sotheby's London on the 23rd June 1994. Cf: A History of the Crown Jewels of Europe by Lord Twining, Batsford, 1960 & The French Crown Jewels by Bernard Morel, Fonds Mercator, 1988.plundered by thieves in 1792.
It was later reconstitudted by Napoleon, who as Emperor, whished to surround his court with an aura of brilliance and, in so doing, revive artistic skills which had languished during the Revolutionary period.

Stimulated by his patronage, jewellers trained to the high standards of the eighteenth century created magnificent parures (matching suites) which asserted the authority of the new order.

It was Francois-Regnault Nitot, Napoleons`s favourite jeweller, who made the ruby and diamond suite, to which this necklace also belongs, for the Empress Marie-Louise in 1810. In the miniature by J.B. Isabey which she sent her father in Vienna, the Empress wears the necklace with her picturesque wedding gown of white satin embroidered with trails of golden leaves and Napoleonic bees. Nitot was also proud of this particular parure, for it is the only one he recorded in a watercolour >> and by a replica >>, substituting white sapphires and garnets for the precious stones.

Chaumet - Replica II              Chaumet - Replica III           

Besides the necklace the parure comprised a coronet topped by an eagle, tiara, comb, girandole earrings, belt and bracelets, epitomising the grand manner which the Empire had made its own.

Being state property, the parure passed to the restored Bourbon monarchy after the fall of Napoleon in 1812. As Louis XVIII was a widower, his courageous and tragic niece, Madame Royal Marie-Therese de Bourbon wife of the future heir, the Duc d´Àngouleme, had first choice of the crown jewels.
In 1816 the ruby and diamond parure was remodelled for her by Paul Nicolas Meniere and hies son-in-law, Evrard Bapst.
While keeping the essential elements of Nitot`s necklace they reorganised them into a robust and simplified composition more in tune with the style adopted to distinguish the Restoration from the Empire. They removed the elegant chains and between pieces and the pendants which had formerly hung from the large clusters now alternating with them, attached to ruby collets crowned by palmettes flaned by solitaires.
Further modifications were made for the Duchesse to wear the parure to the coronation of her father-in-law as Charles X in the cathedral of Theims in 1826.

The excellence of the classic design which set off the beaty of the rubies was acknowledged by Napoleon III when the Crown jewels were remonted for the Empress Eugenie. The parure was left untouched and all that was required of the crown jeweller, Alfred Papst, was a new red leather case, stamped with the Imperial insignia and inscribed DIAMANTS DE LA COURONNE.

For the state ball held at the Tuileries on January 16, 1869, the Empress gave the necklace an eighteent century character by monting it on black velvet tied with a bow at the neck. She did not wear the rest oft the parure: instead, diamonds glittered in her chignon, and a yellow pansy in the centre of the garland round her head matched her strawcoloured tulle dress.
She was the last royal French lady to enjoy possession of these celebrated rubies, for after the establishment of the Third Republic the Crown jewels being monarchical symbols, were sold at auction in 1887. As a result of this gesture of political spite the parure was divided.
The tiara and the bracelets which were bought by Tiffanys came to light when the jewels of Cornelia, Countess Craven were sold in 1961.
The bracelets have been displayed in the Louvre since 1973 and the tiara is also in Paris, in the private collection of Niarchos.
source:christies, Diana Scarisbrick


Entwurf der Rubin Parure der französischen Krone | Sketch of the Imperial Ruby-Diamond-Parure

Modell der Rubin Parure aus dem 19.Jhdt | Replica of the Imperial Ruby-Diamond-Parure

Die Orginalversion der Smaragd Parure | The Imperial Emerald-Diamond-Parure

Die Kaiserin mit der Smaragd-Garnitur | The Empress wearing the Emerald-Parure

Spätere Versionen der Smaragd Tiara | Later Versions of the tiara

Das Smaragdcollier und die Ohrringe| The Emerald-Diamond-Necklace and the Earrings with Emeralds

Königliche und Kaiserliche Juwelen | Royal and Imperial Jewels of France


Die Auswahl unseres Sponsors:
Diamanten- Brillianten für Sammler und Liebhaber >>
Diamonds for Collectors >>
Antiker Diamant- und Brillantschmuck kaufen und verkaufen >>

Sponsored by Schmuckbörse  Non profit object | U.BUTSCHAL© 2006 / RSS FEED /