Ruby Parure France DIADEM| Crown Jewels France| Madame Royale Marie Thérèse Duchess of Angoulême Ruby Parure

Rubin - Parure der französischen Krone

Diese atemberaubende Rubin Tiara aus dem sagenhaften Schatz der französischen Krone soll jetzt im Besitz von Niarchos sein, seine Frau trug sie anlässlich der Hochzeit von König Konstantin von Griechenland mit Prinzessin Annemarie in Athen.

Oben eines der wenigen Bilder von dieser Tiara im Orginal.

Zu dieser Parure gehören auch ein paar Armbänder mit Rubinen und Diamanten die jetzt im Louvre ausgestellt sind. Das Collier wurde 1981 mit 900 000 SFR versteigert, der Verbleib ist unbekannt.

Der Entwurf als Zeichnungen von Nitot ist ebenfalls erhalten >>
Aber auch eine exakte Kopie des französischen Hofjuweliers der gesamten Garnitur besetzt mit weissen Saphiren und Granaten, statt Rubinen und Diamanten >>

The Magnificent Ruby and Diamond Necklace from the Crown Jewels of France

Because of its distinguished provenance there is no mystery about the history of this majestic necklace. It was one of the crown jewels of France and come from the collection founded in 1530 by Francois Ier as a permanent monument to national superiority in the art of jewellery. Enshrining so much of the glory of France, this great treasury remained intact until plundered by thieves in 1792.
It was later reconstitudted by Napoleon, who as Emperor, whished to surround his court with an aura of brilliance and, in so doing, revive artistic skills which had languished during the Revolutionary period.

Stimulated by his patronage, jewellers trained to the high standards of the eighteenth century created magnificent parures (matching suites) which asserted the authority of the new order.

It was Francois-Regnault Nitot, Napoleons`s favourite jeweller, who made the ruby and diamond suite, to which this necklace also belongs, for the Empress Marie-Louise in 1810. In the miniature by J.B. Isabey which she sent her father in Vienna, the Empress wears the necklace with her picturesque wedding gown of white satin embroidered with trails of golden leaves and Napoleonic bees. Nitot was also proud of this particular parure, for it is the only one he recorded in a watercolour >> and by a replica >>, substituting white sapphires and garnets for the precious stones.

Chaumet - Replica II Chaumet - Replica III

Besides the necklace the parure comprised a coronet topped by an eagle, tiara, comb, girandole earrings, belt and bracelets, epitomising the grand manner which the Empire had made its own.

Being state property, the parure passed to the restored Bourbon monarchy after the fall of Napoleon in 1812. As Louis XVIII was a widower, his courageous and tragic niece, Madame Royal Marie-Therese de Bourbon wife of the future heir, the Duc d´Àngouleme, had first choice of the crown jewels.a

In 1816 the ruby and diamond parure was remodelled for her by Paul Nicolas Meniere and his son-in-law, Evrard Bapst.
While keeping the essential elements of Nitot`s necklace they reorganised them into a robust and simplified composition more in tune with the style adopted to distinguish the Restoration from the Empire. They removed the elegant chains and between pieces and the pendants which had formerly hung from the large clusters now alternating with them, attached to ruby collets crowned by palmettes flaned by solitaires.
Further modifications were made for the Duchesse to wear the parure to the coronation of her father-in-law as Charles X in the cathedral of Theims in 1826.

The excellence of the classic design which set off the beaty of the rubies was acknowledged by Napoleon III when the Crown jewels were remonted for the Empress Eugenie. The parure was left untouched and all that was required of the crown jeweller, Alfred Papst, was a new red leather case, stamped with the Imperial insignia and inscribed DIAMANTS DE LA COURONNE.

For the state ball held at the Tuileries on January 16, 1869, the Empress gave the necklace an eighteent century character by monting it on black velvet tied with a bow at the neck. She did not wear the rest oft the parure: instead, diamonds glittered in her chignon, and a yellow pansy in the centre of the garland round her head matched her strawcoloured tulle dress.
She was the last royal French lady to enjoy possession of these celebrated rubies, for after the establishment of the Third Republic the Crown jewels being monarchical symbols, were sold at auction in 1887. As a result of this gesture of political spite the parure was divided.
The tiara and the bracelets which were bought by Tiffanys came to light when the jewels of Cornelia, Countess Craven were sold in 1961.
The bracelets have been displayed in the Louvre since 1973 and the tiara is also in Paris, in the private collection of Niarchos.

In the year 2021 a brooch was came to the light, which was earlier one of the two earrings, matching the Imperial Ruby Paure, see on top left. It will offered by Christies Geneve in November 2021.

Sources:Christies, Diana Scarisbrick

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