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Ein Objekt der Begierde war dieses antike, russische Diadem mit den in Rauten gehaltenen, größeren Diamanten, die allesamt noch in umschließenden, silbernen Chatons gefasst waren. Sieben mit großen Saphir-Cabochons besetzte antike Cluster sind auf dem Kokoschnik verteilt. Die Tiara gehörte Zarin Maria Alexandrowna und hat diese mit weiterem Saphirschmuck ihrem Sohn Großfürst Aleksey vermacht.

Großfürst Aleksey starb 1908 unverheiratet. Das Diadem hatte sich seine Schwägerin Großfürstin Vladimir zu seinen Lebzeiten noch ausgeliehen und trug es zur Eröffnung der Duma 1906. Sie nahm fest an, dass sie es von ihm erben würde. Aleksey hat es aber überraschend seinem Bruder Paul vermacht. Daraufhin hat sie sich 1909 ein neues Diadem mit Saphiren in Anlehnung an dieses Modell, bei Cartier anfertigen lassen.
Großfürst Paul hat einen Teil der Saphire seiner Mutter für seine Tochter Maria Pawlowna zur Hochzeit mit dem schwedischen Prinzen bei Cartier umfassen lassen. Das Diadem blieb aber original und war lediglich zum reinigen bei Cartier, wobei man es dort fotografisch archiviert hatte. Pauls zweite Gemahlin, die Fürstin Paley, Gräfin von Hohenfelsen hat es darauf hin getragen. Quelle:Nadelhoffer-Cartier

Uwe Ripka, 25. July 2011


Jewels of the tsars| Sapphires Kokoshnik| Romanov Tiara

A beautiful antique kokoshnik tiara once in the possession of Empress Maria Alexandrovna was photographed in 1908 when Grand Duke Paul of Russia gave it for cleaning to Cartier.

The antique kokoshnik is set with seven sapphire cabochons, all fastened in a cluster of diamonds and detachable from the frame made in gold and silver and richly set with diamonds in a geometric pattern.

When the Empress died in 1880 she left the main part of her sapphires including this kokoshnik to her son Grand Duke Alexei. Due to his morganatic wedding and the early death of his wife, the kokoshnik was unused for a couple of years. The Grand Duchess Vladimir took the opportunity to borrow the tiara in 1906 for the big Duma reception. She was quite sure that Alexei would leave it to her, since she was his sister-in-law.

When he died in 1908, his brother Paul was the one who inherited the sapphires. The Grand Duchess Vladimir was very disappointed. She decided to have an almost similar one made. In 1909, Cartier made for her the legendary platinum kokoshnik.

In turn the Grand Duke Paul gave the antique kokoshnik of his mother to his wife Princess Olga Paley; unfortunately, the whereabouts of Empress Maria Alexandrovna's tiara is unknown.


Uwe Ripka, 25. July 2011


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