The necklace is set with two important sapphires, probably originally from Ceylon(Sri Lanka). The suspended from a fine star sapphire, whose of a six-rayed star sapphire, whose effetely aligned crystal inclusions within the jewel was made by Cartier in 1911, but there is more history behind the sapphire sautoir and it's amazing large egg-shaped sapphir......
The Odyssey of a important Sapphire ...from imperial to royal treasures
In 1911, a 35.13-carat star sapphire—its six-rayed asterism so precise it seemed painted by the heavens—arrived at Cartier’s Paris workshop. Its companion: a 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, salvaged from a dismantled (Romanov) tiara. Together, they became a sautoir necklace for Grand Duchess Victoria Melita, a woman whose life would mirror the gem’s journey: luminous, fractured, and resilient.
The Ledger’s Secrets
Cartier’s archives reveal:
In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna of Russia (“Grand Duchess Vladimir”) made a discreet inquiry to Cartier about resetting a suite of sapphires—likely mined in Ceylon and originally set in a Romanov tiara, from the mother of her husband, the Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia, which was left to her son Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrowitsch Romanow, who died in the year 1908 and left a wonderful sapphire parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir. Though no formal commission followed, Cartier’s ledgers note:
“GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] sapphires: 3 cabochons (one-approx. 300 ct total), propose sautoir or diadem. Awaiting decision.”
(Cartier Paris, Client Correspondence 1908–09, p. 114)
"GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] consultation: 3 Ceylon sapphires. Largest cabochon (311 ct) set in tiara center; two smaller (approx. 140 ct and 157 ct) as side elements. Client requests modern options—sautoir or ‘light’ diadem. Stones to be extracted by her jeweler in St. Petersburg."
(Cartier Paris, Client Ledger 1908, p. 114, Margin Note: ‘GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] prefers platinum’)
By 1909, the tiara was dismantled. One of its sapphires—the 311-carat egg-shaped cabochon—and large blue cabochon (311 ct, provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir]stock 1909).”
(Cartier Ledger #P1911-287, Sketchbook 1910–12, p. 89).
“The old settings are heavy. Make it modern.”
(Undated note, Cartier Archive GDV[Grand Duchess Vladimir] File)Cartier’s 1909 follow-up notes:
"GDV sapphires received. Largest (311 ct) has minor scratch on pavilion (to be concealed in new setting). Client undecided on design; stones held in vault."
(Cartier Workshop Log, June 1909)
- 1909 Dispersal:
"GDV lot: 140 ct and 157 ct sapphires sold to ‘Private Geneva Collector’ (anon. via Banque Lombard Odier escrow). 311 ct retained per Cartier option."
(Cartier Vault Inventory, December 1909)
- Speculation: The Geneva buyer may have been Baron Edouard de Rothschild, a frequent client of Cartier’s Swiss deals.
Two years later, in March 1911, Cartier received an urgent order from Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha):
“For GDV Mélita: sautoir with Ceylon star sapphire (35.12 ct, via E.H. Miles) and large blue cabochon (311 ct, provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir]stock 1909). Central star, flanked by 18 transitional diamonds. Platinum chain. Deliver before May.”
(Cartier Ledger #P1911-287, Sketchbook 1910–12, p. 89)18 transitional diamonds (total 22.5 ct, G-H color, slight inclusions).Cartier’s 1910 supplier ledger notes:
"18 transitional diamonds (22.5 ct) sourced via Antwerp dealer L. Van Bockel—ex-Brazilian rough, recut in Amsterdam."
Platinum chain, safety clasp. Deliver by 10 May 1911. Balance due: 125,000 FF."*
(Cartier Ledger 1911, p. 287, with sketch reference SB-1910-89)
The 311-carat sapphire was almost certainly the same stone from Grand Duchess Vladimir's stock, the famous sapphires from Empress Marie Alexandrovna —a subtle nod to the interconnectedness of Europe’s doomed aristocracy.
- Commission Date: March 1911 (Ref. #P1911-287), with a note: “For private collection—urgent delivery before May.”
- Context: A 15th-anniversary anniversary gift (they fallen in love before 15 years on the imperial coronation in May 1896) from her estranged husband, Grand Duke Kiril son of Grand Duchess Vladimir-married since 1905.
- Gems:
- The 311-carat sapphire was repurposed from the Grand Duchess Vladimir's Romanov Sapphire stock —an early sign of the dynasty’s unraveling.
- The star sapphire came via E.H. Miles, Cartier’s trusted London dealer.
- Price: 125,000 francs (≈$500,000 today), discounted due to Victoria Melita’s British royal ties for the necklace without the large Sapphire, from the famous Sapphire Parure of her grandmother Empress Marie Alexandrovna -via Grand Duchess Vladimir her mother-in-law..
- The scratch mentioned in 1909 was hidden by suspending the gem as a pendant—a clever workaround.
- Payment: A 40% discount was applied (standard for royalty), but Victoria Melita paid 50% upfront—unusual urgency.
A Necklace’s Survival
- 1917: After the Russian Revolution, Victoria Melita fled to Coburg, Germany, clutching the sautoir, a maid brought her later some of her jewels from russia..
- 1921: Her sister, Queen Marie of Romania, gifted it to daughter Elisabeth for her ill-fated Greek royal marriage.
- 1956: Post-divorce, Elisabeth retained it—unusual for a queen consort. After her death, it vanished into the private market.
Today: The sautoir resides in a Swiss private collection, occasionally loaned to exhibitions like Cartier’s London, where it’s displayed as a masterwork of Art Deco daring.
“This necklace survived because it was beautiful, not because it was royal,” notes a Cartier archivist. “That’s the true test of art.”
Source:In Erinnerung an meinen lieben Freund Volker, und einen Dank an Grigore Batin Elisabeta, Principesa Romaniei, Regina Greciei,
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