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Bijoux de couronnesKronjuwelen - Perlen | Bijoux - Perles | Historic Jewelry and Pearl Tiara | Diadem mit Perlen der französischen Kaiserin - Kronjuwelen

PERLEN TIARA Die historischen Perlen aus dem französischen Kronschatz

Eugénie, Kaiserin der Franzosen erlangte geradezu legendäre Berühmtheit als Perlenliebhaberin. Auf dem 1855 von Winterhalter gemalten Bild oben, trägt die Gattin von Napoleon III. unter anderem ein 4-reihiges Collier mit 408 Perlen von 6,461 Grains, die aus dem Kronschatz stammen und mit dem stolzen Wert von FF 326.400 beschrieben wurden.
Eugénie besaß eine Reihe weiterer Perlenschmuckstücke, wie das Diadem das später der Fürstin von Thurn und Taxis gehörte, die ebanfalls von Gabriel Lemonnier und anderen Pariser Juwelieren passend umgearbeitet worden waren. Die Perlen dazu waren aus dem früheren Besitz von Marie-Louise, der zweiten Gemahlin Napoleons.

Nach dem Fall des zweiten Reiches, wurden die Kronjuwelen von der Regierung verkauft.

An der Corsage trägt sie ihren persönlichen Glücksbringer eine Smaragd Kleeblatt-Brosche.

Thurn und Taxis Schmuck - Diadem - Brosche

 

 

The historical pearls of the French Imperial treasure - the Tiara

The origin of this tiara lies in the immense order of pearls, which Napoléon I. has given to François Nitot, the French crown jeweller who has delivered the vast order between 1810 and 1811.

The final parure consisted of:
a large tiara, a magnificent comb, a pair of bracelets and matching earrings as well, a three row pearl necklace, a one row pearl necklace and five individual strands, which could be twisted into the hair-style or was for the use as decoration of the robes. The absolute high point of the parure was an enormous sautoir made of 408 absolutely regular(above left) and totally equal pearls in size of together 6,461 grains and the sayful sum of FF 326.400.

These pearls were assigned to the “Diamants de la Couronne”, in whose existence they remained until 1887 but have been for free disposal of Napoléons second wife the Empress Marie Marie-Louise.

The trace of the original appearance of the parure is lost already in 1818, when the pearl parure was completely broken up and reworked for the Duchess of Angoulême by the courtjeweller Babst Menière.

During the reign of Louis Philipp (1830-1848) the pearls remained untouched with the other crownjewels because Queen Marie Amelie has worn exclusively her personal jewellery.

In 1853, on the occasion of the wedding Napoléons III. with Eugénie de Montijo, the crownjewellers François Kramer and Gabriel Lemonnier got the order to create a complete new pearl parure with the napoléonique pearls.

Lemonnier supplied the large stomacher, a couronette and the new tiara, - like to be seen in its present form above.

In the tiara are united again, - up to the “Perle Napoléon”, all of the large pearl drops of Marie-Louise, as well as the large half-pearls, who originally were all set in the comb and the tiara of the Empress.

The earlier use of the countless smaller pearls cannot be reconstructed any more but they might have been on strings because all of the pearls are drilled.

A characteristic of the tiara of Lemonnier was the decoration of tiny diamonds, which were all still executed in the modern brilliant-cut and have just an average of 0,03 ct. In recent times a stone of this size could be polished only as a rose-cut diamond.

Lemonnier did perfectly without the use of larger diamonds and set now on the new effect of the brilliance of the 1,998 small brilliants with a total weight of just 63.30 ct.

The diamonds are overcrusting the filigree silver-gilt, Style Louis XVI. mount and is giving the effect of the pearls the absolute priority.

The archives of Lemonnier register a total weight of the 212 pearls of 2.520 grains. The tiara measures 7 cm at the highest point and has a length of 39 cm.

With the sale of the crownjewels in the year 1887 the tiara was estimated of FF 100,000 but was sold however for FF 78,100 at M. Julius Jacobi.

Prince Albert von Thurn & Taxis acquired the tiara three years later as a wedding gift for his wife, the Archeduchess Margarete of Austria, who received it on 15 July 1890.
The tiara remained in the family of Thurn & Taxis up to the year 1992 when it was sold as part of the princly jewel collection. The tiara fetched the price of DM 935,000.

Buyer was in 1992 the society "Amis de Louvre", who made it possible that the imperial tiara can be shown now again in the "Galerie d'Apollon" of the Paris Louvre.

On her corsage she had pinned one of her personel jewels, the clover of emerald brooch - Le trèfle de Compiègne.

Thanks again to Uwe Ripka for his great support!

source: Kunz Book of pearl

More of the Diamants De La Couronne | Imperatrice France

Empress Eugenie Tassel-Bow-Brooch | Grand noeud de corsage de l'impératrice Eugénie Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France | Schleifenbrosche der Kaiserin Eugenie

Famous Pearl Napoleon & La Regente, Diadem with Pearls of the French Empress Eugenie | Imperatrice France

Pearls Parure Diamantes Stomacher | Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France | Joyaux de la couronne

The historical pearls of the French Imperial treasure - the Tiara | Joyaux historiques LA PERLE DE L'EMPEREUR

The Diamond Hair Jewel Empress Eugenie | Diamant Haar-Schmuck der Kaiserin Eugenie Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France

Feuilles de Groseillier Diamant Parure | Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France | Joyaux de la Couronne France

4 Perles Broches Brillants | Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France | Joyaux de la Couronne France

2 Bracelets with Brilliants & Pearls | Empress Eugenie| French Crown Jewels| Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France

Pair of Great Shoulder Knot Brooches with Diamonds | French Crown Jewels|Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France

Couronnette Perles et Brillants | Joyaux et Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France| French Crown Jewels

Empress Eugenie's Personal Jewels

Empress Eugenies Lilac Spray Brooches | Mellerio Flieder Brosche| Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Ruby-Necklace of Empress Eugenie | Rubin-Diamant-Perlen Collier der Kaiserin Eugenie| Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Imperial Marguerites of Diamond for the Empress of France | Margeriten aus Diamanten für die Blumenliebhaberin Kaiserin Eugenie von Frankreich | Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Exotic inspired corsage brooch of diamonds, once in the collection of Empress Eugénie| Orchideen Knospe, Diamant Brosche mit sechs Diamanttropfen | Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Empress Eugénie - Jewels Anchor Diamond Brooches Empress Eugénie - Jewel History France | Anker Broschen Kaiserin Eugenie von Frankreich

Diamants bleu | Zwei Anker mit geheimnisvollen Diamanten der Kaiserin Eugénie

Broché rubis perles et diamants Eugénie | Brosche mit drei Tropfenperlen, Rubinen und Diamanten der Kaiserin Eugénie

Three pearl and diamond fringe pendants composed of large stones | Broché rubis perles et diamants Eugénie brooch| later in the possession of the Mrs Ernest G Raphael nee Sassoon

Diademe Imperatrice - Eugenie de France |Fontenay Diadem of Empress Eugenie | Diadem der Kaiserin Eugenie von Frankreich | Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Emerald Collection Empress Eugenie | Magnifique ensemble de joyaux en émeraudes et brillants Imperatrice Eugenie| Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Imperial Emeralds from Empress Eugenie to Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain Emerald-Necklace | Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Imperial Emeralds of Empress Eugenie Gift to Queen Victoria Eugenia | Emerald-Necklace in long Version with the Cross| Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

Imperial Emeralds Present to Queen Victoria Eugenia | Emeraldcross of Queen Isabella II. - Madame Patiño| Les bijoux de l'Impératrice Eugénie

 

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