Josephine Queen of Sweden | Nicolo Intaglios Cameos Parure |PIERRES DURES | Royal Jewels

A very fine set of carved stones called nicolo was once in the possession of Queen Josephine of Sweden. Nicolo,niccolo (rare) onicolo. Seldom used synonym for onyx, a variety of agate with straight and parallel layers of white on a black or dark brown background.

A firm proof of the source is unknown but it seems to be made between 1800 and 1814.

Today the necklace, brooch and the pair of earrings are in the collection of Chaumet in Paris.
The House of Chaumet confirms that it was made by Nitot.

At one time, the set of jewels was attributed to the Empress Joséphine but in the inventory made after her death at Malmaison in 1814 nothing matches anything like this. It is highly likely that Nitot made this set for the wedding of Auguste Amalia in 1806 and was given to her as part of a big casket of fine jewellery ordered by Napoléon for this important alliance

All female members of the Bavarian royal family and some members of the court received jewels but the very close inner circle got more than one set. Due to the style it is very likely it was made for the young bride Auguste Amalia and not for her daughter Josephine of Leuchtenberg.

When Augusta Amalia of Leuchtenberg died in 1851 it is possible that she left it to her daughter Queen Josephine of Sweden.

What happened to the matching bandeau tiara is unknown. Nevertheless this set shows the magnificent color play with a wide arrange of semi-precious agate stones together with fine oriental seed pearls which was very fashionable at this time.
Uwe Ripka, 19.03.2012

*Synonyme peu usité de onyx, une variété d'agate à bandes droites et parallèles de couleur blanche sur un fond noir ou brun foncé.

En 1885: « Pierre dure composée d'une couche très foncée recouverte d'une légère couche blanche ou jaunâtre. On l'emploie et on l'a employée dès l'antiquité à la gravure des intailles. »

En 1890: « Nom qu'on donne à certaines agates, dont le fond brun est recouvert d'une couche laiteuse plus ou moins épaisse. »

« Nicolo: Son nom vient de l’Italien nicolo signifiant « petit œil ». Le nicolo est un onyx zoné noir et blanc taillé. Gravé en intaille, le nicolo est utilisé dès l’antiquité et monté en bagues. La gravure en relief fait ressortir le fond noir et la couche supérieure blanche, prend une teinte bleuâtre en surface. »