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Königliche Diamant Tiara DiademThe Princess Royal's DiamondsPrincess Royal's Diamond Scroll TiaraPrincess Mary’s Diamond TiaraA Versatile Jewel with Detachable Diamond ClustersAnother important jewel in the collection of Princess Mary, The Princess Royal and Countess of Harewood, was a highly versatile diamond tiara of impressive workmanship. The tiara was composed of six graduated diamond clusters, each intersected by diamond collets and ribbon scrolls. These scrolls formed heart-shaped centres, enclosed within a diamond collet and ribbon frame. Above five of the clusters was a small bow motif. The six diamond clusters were detachable and could be removed from the tiara for alternative use, making the jewel an adaptable ornament in the tradition of grand nineteenth-century court jewellery. The exact provenance of the tiara is not known. However, its construction appears particularly solid, and the quality of the diamonds is notably fine. In style and workmanship, it has the character of an important continental or possibly Russian jewel. It may have been acquired from a member of one of the former Russian imperial or aristocratic families after the Revolution, when many important jewels entered the European market. The tiara was later offered in the 1970 auction of the jewels of Princess Mary, The Princess Royal, where it sold for £9,500. It has sometimes been incorrectly described as a Garrard jewel. At present, there is no secure evidence for a Garrard attribution. Unless a maker’s mark, invoice, or archival reference can be produced, the tiara should not be described as made by Garrard. Its maker remains unidentified.
The Princess Royal’s Sapphires – Queen Mary’s Sapphire and Diamond brooch| Royal Jewel HistoryQueen Mary’s Sapphire Cluster BroochWedding Gift to Princess Mary, The Princess RoyalAmong the wedding presents given to Princess Mary, later The Princess Royal and Countess of Harewood, in 1922 was a magnificent sapphire and diamond cluster brooch from her mother, Queen Mary. The jewel consisted of a single large oval sapphire surrounded by fourteen diamonds. A jeweller’s note records a bill of £2,000 in 1921, apparently for a sapphire and diamond jewel sold, probably to Queen Mary, from Viscount Powerscourt. The design strongly recalls the famous sapphire and diamond brooch given by Prince Albert to Queen Victoria as a wedding present in 1840: a large blue sapphire framed by a border of diamonds. Queen Mary’s gift to her daughter was not merely a brooch. It appears to have been designed, or at least adapted, so that Princess Mary could use it as the central element of a diamond tiara. The Princess Royal was able to replace the diamond centre of the tiara with this imposing sapphire cluster of 60ct, transforming the jewel into a sapphire and diamond tiara for formal occasions. The same sapphire cluster was later described in the 1970 auction of the Princess Royal’s jewels as: “a highly important sapphire and diamond brooch, composed of a large oval sapphire held by rose diamond claws in a border of fourteen brilliant-cut diamonds.” At that sale, the brooch was sold for £10,500 to S. J. Phillips. Princess Mary also wore the sapphire cluster as a shoulder brooch, particularly with her pearls. In this form, the jewel showed its full versatility: it could serve as a grand tiara centre, a formal corsage or shoulder ornament, and a magnificent sapphire brooch in its own right. This sapphire jewel therefore belongs to the group of highly adaptable royal ornaments favoured by Queen Mary and her family. Its possible, its resemblance to Prince Albert’s wedding gift to Queen Victoria, and its later use by the Princess Royal make it one of the most interesting sapphire jewels in the British royal family’s twentieth-century history.
The Princess Royal’s Sapphires – Sapphire and Diamond bracelet The bracelet was composed of eleven sapphire and diamond clusters.
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