Chaumet, Ruby and Diamond Négligé Necklace, circa 1902
A Belle Époque jewel with a fascinating aristocratic resonance.
This ruby and diamond pendent necklace, recently offered by Phillips Geneva, belongs to one of Chaumet’s most graceful early 20th-century forms: the négligé necklace. With its asymmetric pendant drops and fluid diamond setting, the design reflects the refined elegance of Parisian high society around 1900.
The necklace is set with three cushion-shaped rubies, accented by circular- and rose-cut diamonds. The rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating — a rare and highly desirable quality in historic ruby jewels.
What makes it so unmistakably Chaumet?
The answer lies in its lightness, its movement, and its refined construction. Under Joseph Chaumet, the Maison became one of the great masters of Belle Époque jewellery, especially between the 1890s and 1910s, when tiaras, aigrettes, négligé necklaces and naturalistic jewels formed the language of aristocratic elegance. Chaumet itself identifies the Belle Époque period, under Joseph Chaumet, as an era of opulent and daring creations.
In the Chaumet archive there are two sketches of this versions of neglige necklaces with half-moon borders from the year 1900 and a picture in black and white of colliers, pendentifs from 1898, see below.
The jewel also reflects Chaumet’s modern approach to gemstones. At a time when treated stones were becoming an issue in the jewellery trade, Joseph Chaumet placed great importance on gemmological knowledge and transparency. In this necklace, the unheated Burmese rubies are not merely decorative: they are part of the jewel’s historic and material importance.Phillips als Lot 320 sold it for CHF 451,500 at Geneve 2026.
A small masterpiece of Belle Époque Paris — discreet, aristocratic, and unmistakably Chaumet.
The marriage of Mademoiselle Corisande de Gramont, daughter of the Duc and Duchesse de Gramont, with Comte Hélie de Noailles, lieutenant in the 27th Dragoons at Versailles, was one of the great aristocratic events of the Paris season.
Before the wedding itself, the Duc and Duchesse de Gramont held a splendid afternoon reception from four to seven o’clock at the Hôtel de Gramont, rue de Chaillot, for the signing of the marriage contract. More than a thousand people passed through the salons. The staircase, vestibules and reception rooms were decorated with great masses of pink hydrangeas, giving the house a festive and graceful appearance suitable for the union of two of the most distinguished French families.
The bridegroom, Comte Hélie de Noailles, was the second son of the late Duc Jules de Noailles and the Duchesse de Noailles, née de La Ferté-Meun-Molé de Champlâtreux. The bride, Corisande de Gramont, was the daughter of Antoine-Agénor, Duc de Gramont, and his second wife, Marguerite-Alexandrine de Rothschild.
The contemporary reports stressed that this was the third alliance between the houses of Gramont and Noailles.
The religious wedding was celebrated on Tuesday, 2 July, at Saint-Pierre de Chaillot. The witnesses for the bridegroom were S.A.R. the Duc de Chartres and the colonel commanding the 27th Dragoons. The witnesses for the bride were the Duc de Lesparre, her uncle, and the Duc de Guiche, her brother, representing the Prince de Wagram, who was indisposed.
The nuptial blessing was given by Abbé Chesnelong, described as a friend of the family. The church was filled with Parisian and international high society. After the ceremony, a long reception and lunch took place at the Hôtel de Gramont. The procession to the sacristy reportedly lasted an hour and a half.
The bride wore a white satin gown with a long train, trimmed with tulle, and an old family veil of point d’Angleterre lace. The Duchesse de Gramont wore mauve crêpe de Chine covered with old Venetian point lace. The Duchesse de Noailles douairière, mother of the bridegroom, wore violet satin and lace. The Marquise de Virieu appeared in a wheat-coloured satin gown with a long train covered with old lace said to have belonged to the Duchesse de Bourgogne. The women of the wedding party were repeatedly described for their magnificent lace, muslin and pale-coloured gowns.
The Wedding Basket and Gifts
In the principal salon of the Hôtel de Gramont were displayed the bride’s corbeille and the innumerable wedding gifts. The reports describe an extraordinary accumulation of jewels, silver, vermeil, Sèvres, Chinese porcelain, fans, furniture, clocks, vases, table services and personal objects.
Chaumet was deeply embedded in the world of the French aristocracy. Families such as the Gramont, Noailles, Rothschild, Wagram and related houses belonged to the social circle from which the Maison drew many of its most distinguished clients, with commissions documented in Chaumet’s own archival ledgers.
In the wedding basket
The wedding basket included:
- a diamond diadem
- a five-row pearl necklace with ruby and diamond barrettes
- a branch of flowers with diamond leaves
- a sapphire and diamond bracelet
- a ruby and diamond ring
- point d’Angleterre lace
- an antique fans
- furs, including martens and sables
- dresses of black velvet and sea-green satin
- a sachet or small bag
- from the Duchesse de Noailles douairière: a sapphire and diamond ring
- from the Duchesse de Noailles douairière: an emerald and diamond bracelet
Comtesse Noailles Jewels and Important Gifts
From the bride’s family and closest relations
Duchesse de Gramont
- diamond diadem with briolettes
- diamond “ruisselet” or stream-like necklace with three pavés of emeralds
- diamond and turquoise dog-collar necklace
- sautoir chain set with diamonds and sapphires
- another report also mentions green enamel and diamond waistcoat buttons and silver salt cellars
Duc de Guiche and M. Louis-René de Gramont
- Louis XVI vermeil toilet set
- bag with diamond and sapphire cipher
- pencil with sapphire cabochon
- opera glasses
- another report adds an emerald serpent slide or coulant, and cufflinks
Comtesse de Gramont d’Aster
From the Noailles family
Duc and Duchesse de Noailles
- diamond and sapphire aigrette
Marquis de Noailles
Comte and Comtesse Mathieu de Noailles
- antique Louis XVI piece of furniture
Duchesse de Noailles douairière
- sapphire and diamond ring
- emerald and diamond bracelet
Baronne James de Rothschild
- diamond crescent
- antique bureau
- one report also mentions a cashmere shawl
Lord and Lady Rothschild
- diamond aigrette
- diamond and emerald brooch
- diamond and emerald bracelet
M. Alfred de Rothschild
- emerald and diamond brooch
Hon. Walter and Charles Rothschild
- flask with diamond and sapphire ciphers
- lunch bag
Hon. Léopold de Rothschild
- diamond and emerald bracelet
Baron and Baronne Alphonse de Rothschild
Baron and Baronne Henri de Rothschild
- “Walkyrie” brooch set with diamonds and rubies
Baronne Adolphe de Rothschild
- watch enriched with diamonds and rubies
Baron and Baronne Edmond de Rothschild
Baron Robert de Rothschild, Barons J. and M. de Rothschild, Baronne James de Rothschild and M. Maurice de Rothschild
Mlle Miriam de Rothschild
- one report mentions a parasol
Other princely, ducal and aristocratic gifts, ornamented with gems
Prince and Princesse de Wagram, with Baronne James de Rothschild
- complete Louis XVI silver service
Marquise de Virieu, née Vallin
Baronne David Leonino
Comtesse de Poix
Duc and Duchesse de Rohan
Prince de Béthune
- diamond slide or coulant
- diamond hair brooch
Prince and Princesse Edmond de Polignac
- traveller’s bag in vermeil
Prince and Princesse Francis de Broglie
Comte and Comtesse Edouard de La Rochefoucauld
Comte d’Alltiouche or d’Altiouche
Marquise de Broc
Comte and Comtesse Edouard de Lambertye
- acorn pendant set with pearl and diamonds
Admiral Duperré
Duchesse de Luynes, née La Rochefoucauld
- another report mentions parasol fittings - costly ornamented
M. and Mme Munroe
Baron and Baronne Lambert
- Persian pendant in enamel and precious stones
Marquis and Marquise de Gabriac
Comte and Comtesse de Lur-Saluces
Marquis and Marquise de Maussabré
Comte and Comtesse d’Andigné
Mlle de Montaulan
- blue enamel and pearl bonbonnière
Comte de Biron
Comte Antoine de Gontaut
S.E. Izzet Pacha
- turquoise and diamond ring
Princesse Brancovan
- crystal and gold cigarette case
Mme Edouard André
- gold box for stamps and matches
Prince and Princesse Alexandre de Chimay
- gold and turquoise cigarette case
M. and Mme Pépin Lehalleur
Comtesse Raoul Chandon de Briailles
- blonde tortoiseshell and diamond combs
Comte and Comtesse G. de Ganay
M. R. de Monbrison
Comte and Comtesse de Montsaulnin
Marquis and Marquise de Chaponay
Mlle de Jaucourt
Quelle:Chaumet Archive;Archive Ursula Butschal;Phillips Auction House;Gallica;LeMode;LeMondain;Wikipedia;
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