A delicate Lattice work tiara, Gold Diamond white sapphire ca 1902, which is set with white sapphires. apperently maufactured by Kreuter, Hanau, it was probably the gift from her father - Exhibit. Wartski 1997.
The tiara is bordered by a continous line of diamonds cuving upwards to a slight apex in the centre which is marked by a spear shaped motif.
Both top edge and base are interspersed with collet set white sapphires and the space between is filled with an openwork pattern of indented squeres between quincunxes - four bud shapes arranged in a square centred on a large collet set stone-
While the outline of this tiara echoes that of the traditionel russian kokochnik the mesh patterin is an innovation, fashionable in the Belle Epoque and also in the early 1920s. There were variants using onys with diamonds and also precious coloured stone but a pattern of the complexity requeired the more understated combination of small glittering diamonds with the pale bluish reflection of the larger white sapphires.
Source:Grafische Sammlung Stern;1000 Tiaras;Nadelhoffer Cartier;
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