Among the most impressive jewels associated with Princess Marie Raineria of Campofranco was this magnificent nineteenth century diamond tiara. It was probably created around 1860 and appears to have come from her mother, Leopoldine, Baroness von Waideck, wife of Archduke Heinrich of Austria.
The design is characteristic of the naturalistic floral jewels fashionable around the middle of the nineteenth century. Rather than forming a rigid and evenly graduated coronet, the diamond ornaments are arranged like a flowering bouquet or a group of branches spreading outwards from the centre.
At the heart of the composition rises an exceptionally large diamond starburst, its numerous rays radiating around a brilliant centre. From this dominant central ornament, the design appears to open towards either side, much like the stems and branches of a bouquet.
The tiara combines several different botanical and celestial motifs. Large diamond flower heads are interspersed with smaller blossoms, while delicate sprigs of lily of the valley rise between diamond set leaves. A further large star or sunburst provides another brilliant point within the composition.
The combination of stars, flower heads, lily of the valley and naturalistic foliage is characteristic of the nineteenth century fascination with jewels inspired by nature. Individual floral and star elements may originally have been conceived to allow different arrangements or uses, a feature frequently encountered in important nineteenth century jewellery.
An interesting comparison can be made with the Kinsky Flower Tiara, another magnificent nineteenth century floral jewel. Its naturalistic arrangement of diamond flowers and foliage illustrates the same taste for transforming botanical forms into elaborate head ornaments. In both jewels, the flowers are not confined within a conventional tiara outline but rise at different heights and spread across the head like a flowering branch or bouquet.
The Campofranco tiara is particularly striking for the combination of these naturalistic floral sprays with its great radiating diamond stars, creating a composition in which flowers, foliage and celestial motifs merge into one spectacular diamond ornament.
The imposing jewel should not be confused with the diamond and drop pearl tiara presented to Marie Raineria as a wedding gift by the parents of her husband, the Duke and Duchess della Grazia, in 1892. This floral diamond tiara appears to belong to an earlier generation and was probably a jewel inherited through Marie Raineria's own family, connecting the Princess of Campofranco with her mother and with the family of her father, Archduke Heinrich of Austria.
The wedding gifts received by Countess Marie Raineria Waideck on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Enrico Lucchesi Palli of Campofranco in 1892 were described by the contemporary press as being as numerous as they were precious.
Together with the bride's trousseau, the presents were exhibited on Sunday and Monday in three salons on the third floor of Palais Rainer in Vienna.
The Exhibition at Palais Rainer
The first salon contained the bride's linen.
In the second salon were displayed the presentation addresses, fans, jewellery, silver, statuettes and other gifts.
The third salon was devoted to the bride's gowns and toilettes. Here, in a large showcase divided into three sections, the most valuable jewels were displayed. These had been presented to Marie Raineria by the Emperor and Empress, members of the Imperial Family and relatives of Prince Campofranco.
During the two days of the exhibition, the guests who had travelled from Italy were invited to view the magnificent collection. The young bride herself acted as their guide and took evident pleasure in showing her Italian relatives the individual pieces.
Every present carried a small label bearing the name of its donor. Only the gifts from the bridegroom were identified more intimately, simply with the name “Henri.”
Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth
The Emperor and Empress presented Marie Raineria with a magnificent diamond suite consisting of:
- a diamond necklace composed of oval cut stones in circular settings
- a diamond brooch of corresponding design
Archduke Rainer and Archduchess Marie
Archduke Rainer and Archduchess Marie, who had cared for the orphaned Marie Raineria almost as their own daughter, were among the most generous donors.
Their gifts included:
- an emerald parure
- an eight row pearl necklace with a diamond clasp
- a bracelet with a diamond and ruby clasp in the form of a case
- numerous other pieces of jewellery
- half mourning fans
The importance of these gifts is particularly notable because Archduchess Marie had personally supervised the preparation of Marie Raineria's trousseau, selecting each piece of her bridal outfit and taking a close interest in its execution.
Jewels from the Austrian Imperial Family
Archduke Albrecht presented a bracelet hung with many different kinds of precious stones.
Archduke Wilhelm gave a brooch and earrings set with diamonds and sapphires.
Archduke Ernst presented an emerald bracelet.
The Grand Duke of Tuscany and Archduchess Alice gave a heart shaped medallion set with brilliant cut diamonds.
The Dowager Grand Duchess of Tuscany sent a bracelet with two clasps set with diamonds and rubies.
Archduchess Immaculata presented a cognac service with a silver cup.
Archduchess Elisabeth gave an ivory and gold fan.
Archduchess Stefan presented a parasol with a gold monogram and tortoiseshell handle.
Archduchess Caroline personally painted a fan with wild roses.
Archduchess Isabella presented another fan decorated with cupids.
King Francis II of the Two Sicilies
King Francis II of the Two Sicilies presented the bride with an especially elaborate:
- Rococo fan with mother of pearl sticks and hand painted decoration
The outer guard was ornamented with Countess Waideck's monogram executed in diamonds.
The Duke and Duchess of Parma
The Duke and Duchess of Parma presented their cousin with:
- a brooch
- two large solitaire stones
Prince Leopold and Princess Antonia of Hohenzollern
Their gift was:
- a magnificent crescent jewel set with diamonds and sapphires
Princess Pietra of Caserta
Princess Pietra of Caserta gave:
- a brooch of stones and oxidised silver
The Diamond and Pearl Tiara
Among the most important wedding jewels was the magnificent parure presented by the parents of the bridegroom, the Duke and Duchess della Grazia.
They gave Marie Raineria:
- a diamond tiara set with large drop shaped pearls
- a matching brooch
- matching ear pendants
The contemporary account gives an unusually vivid indication of the scale of the jewel, describing the pendant pearls of the tiara as being the size of hazelnuts.
This diamond and pearl tiara, together with its matching brooch and earrings, formed one of the principal wedding parures of the new Princess of Campofranco.
The tiara survives in contemporary visual documentation and is one of the jewels associated with Marie Raineria that can be connected directly with the detailed account of her wedding presents.
Duchess Lucrezia
Duchess Lucrezia additionally presented:
- an antique pendant watch decorated with cameos
The Bridegroom's Morning Gift
Prince Enrico's morning gift to his bride consisted of a series of elaborate bracelets and a precious gold box.
Among them were:
- a chain bracelet of diamonds and rubies
- a similarly designed bracelet in which diamonds alternated with blue stones
- several further artistic bracelets
- a gold bonbonnière set with precious stones
In the exhibition at Palais Rainer, these presents were identified simply by the name “Henri.”
Jewels from the Bridegroom's Family and Aristocratic Relations
Count Enrico of Bardi gave a diamond necklace with rubies.
Prince Georg and Princess Bianca of Salm Dyck presented a set of amethyst pins.
Prince and Princess Caracciolo gave an extraordinary diamond bracelet in the form of a serpent. The snake coiled around the wrist three times, its head and body glittering with brilliant cut diamonds and emeralds.
Prince and Princess Massimo presented a gold bracelet set with diamonds.
Prince and Princess Ruffo della Motta Bagnara gave a double bracelet of white stones ornamented with sapphire cabochons.
The Princesses Lobkowitz sent a brooch bearing the monogram G. W.
Frau von Wendtlandt presented antique jewellery.
The siblings of the bridegroom arrived with one of the most extensive gifts of the entire wedding collection:
- a magnificent toilet service comprising 60 silver objects
Every piece displayed the new combined coat of arms of the married couple, executed in repoussé work.
The complete silver service was housed in:
- an elaborately made Boulle work chest
Mlle. Maria Merry del Val presented a Spanish watch.
Countess Ferrari d'Occhieppo gave a magnificent sachet.
Contessa Gabriella Zilari and Field Marshal Lieutenant Baron de Baux each presented fans.
Princess Marie Bertha Rohan gave an image of the Madonna.
Baroness Bruck presented a silver cup in repoussé work.
Smaller gifts were also received from the Countesses Federigolti and Arz, Fräulein von Toggenburg and others.
Professor Dr. Oser presented a liqueur service.
Mme. Giannellia gave an expensive bronze centrepiece with figural decoration.
Mlle. Jausfrei presented an especially personal remembrance:
- a portrait of Marie Raineria's late father, Archduke Heinrich of Austria, painted on porcelain
Fräulein Emma Menner, the bride's longstanding companion, gave:
- an elaborately executed house altar
Count and Countess Ledochowski presented a valuable autograph book.
Admiral von Pitner gave an antique Hellenic vase.
Signora Maddalena, Marie Raineria's Italian teacher, presented an entire small library of Italian books.
Mrs O'Connolly gave a practical travelling food basket.
Baron and Baroness Kopal presented a notebook.
Gifts from the Ladies of Archduchess Marie
Baroness Trauttenberg and Countess Hunyady, ladies in waiting to Archduchess Marie, presented:
- an artistically decorated Spanish screen
- numerous pieces of handmade needlework
Quelle:Hygiea ,Archive Ursula Butschal;
