History of the enormous jewel collection of Queen Mary
DIAMOND TROPHY OF LOVE COLLAR
Formed of seven brilliant-set panels, each with an amatory trophy of bow, quiver and torch in a laurel-wreath oval suspended from a ribbon-tie, framed by foliate brilliant-set bands.
This delicately constructed collar, in the Louis XVI style, was made in March
1901 for Queen Mary when Duchess of Cornwall and York, at the beginning of the reign of King Edward VII. It was probably made by R. & S. Garrard & Co., with diamonds in Gold 6 × 34 cm
The diamonds were taken from a scroll and ribbon-pattern collar*, which itself had been made with stones taken from seven 12-pointed stars and a pair of diamond star earrings, given by Queen Mary’s grandmother, the Duchess of Cambridge, in 1885. These gifts, in 1885, were presumably to mark the Princess’s 18th birthday.
Diamonds were also removed from a floral diamond spray given by her aunt, Augusta, Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, in the same year 1885.
Queen Mary, like her mother-in-law Queen Alexandra, favoured deep collar necklaces for most of her life, due to her long slim neck and the high fashion of the time. The style was not adopted either by Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, to whom the necklace was given when Duchess of York, or by The Queen, who inherited it in 2002, who has worn it only once.
* No reference has been found to the creation of this necklace in the Garrard ledgers; the firm supplied four diamonds and repaired it early in 1902 (Garrard RL51, fol. 266, 30 January 1902, £1 15s). Equally, there is no reference to this necklace in the Cartier archive (an attribution suggested in Munn 2001, p. 133).**
Queen Mary’s jewellery – list
For her marriage in 1893 to the Duke of York,the future George V, the Princess received a very considerable quantity of jewellery; the majority was of diamonds and pearls.
Generous gifts from her family and from the extended royal family vied with spectacular offerings from all round the United Kingdom and across the Empire. Among the more significant jewels, exhibited at the Imperial Institute, were three tiaras, twenty-six bracelets, forty-four brooches and fifteen necklaces**.
Diamond fringe Tiara/necklace given by Queen Victoria
Diamond fringe Tiara/necklace given by the County of Surrey
Diamond Tiara from the Earl and Countess of Iveagh
Diadem of roman workmanship laurel wreath diadem – from the King and Queen of Italy
Diamond and pearl tiara – the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland – later given to her granddaughter Elizabeth II
Diamond Riviere Necklace from the Prince and Princess of Wales
Diamond necklace from the Duke of Westminster see above in the picture as small tiara, with small leaves setted with diamonds and 4 large diamonds with surroundings.
Important Diamond choker giver not known
Kapurthala stomacher with diamond
Warwick sun brooch made of diamonds Diamond sun brooch from Earl and Countess of Warwick, Lord and Lacy Brooke, Captain Alwyne and Mrs Greville. Lady Eva and the Hon Greville;
Spray of rose-leaves in diamonds – from a few women of the stage
Scent-bottle and true-lovers knot in diamonds sent by Miss Alice de Rothschild – later given to the Duchess of York
Diamond set bow brooch – the County of Dorset „Dorset Bow Brooch“
Town of Swansea crescent Diamond Brooch made by Garrard (Diamonds used in Queen Mary’s New Stomacher)
May’s monogram set in diamonds – Mme Weddington
Bow brooch in form of two hearts from Pearls from her future husband
Diamond rose brooch – West Yorkshire Regiment
Rose diamond brooch mounted on a bracelet later given to Queen Elizabeth II
An other round diamond brooch with the diamond necklace
Pair of gold and diamond bangles from the Bombay Presidency, later given to her granddaughter Elisabeth II as wedding gift in 1947
Diamond bracelet from the Fishmongers‘ Company
Gold bracelet with diamond centre Mr. & Mrs Arthur Kennard
Ornament set in diamonds which belonged to Princess Elizabeth Landgravine of Hesse-Homburg
Diamond ornament from Count Korlebrodyki
Ornament given by Sir Horace Farquahar
Diamond and brilliant pendant with enamel – Worshipful Company of Carpenters
Diamond watch from Alice de Rothschild
„Town of Windsor Ring“ Diamond ring from the Mayor and People of Windsor three-stone ring brilliants (passing to The Queen in 2002)
Pearl and diamond comb – Sir G. and Lady Lucas
Diamond necklace/tiara with pearls and matching pearls studs – Ladies of England
Pearl and diamond choker
Five row pearl necklace given by her husband the Duke of York
Magnificent necklace of three rows of pearls with diamond clasp was presented by 23 counties – it was valued at £6000 Sterling
Pearl necklace – County of Kent
Pearl necklace with diamond clasp – presented by a thousand of her Majesty’s subjects
Pearl necklace with diamond clasp from the Ladies of Glasgow consisting of 51 pearls, graduated from the centre, with the largest being about the size of an ordinary pea. The length of the necklace is 14 inches. The clasp consists of eleven diamonds set in gold. The pearls were valued at £930 and the total cost was close to £1000 (The Scotsman, 30 June 1893) Messrs R. & W.Sorley
Pearl and diamond bracelet from the King and Queen of Württemberg
Diamond and pearl brooch/pendant – the Ladies of Surrey Needlework Guild brooch
Women of Hampshire Brooch Brooch/pendant of diamonds and pearls valued at £775 from the women of Hampshire
Diamond set bow brooch with large pendant pearls – Inhabitants of Kensington „Kensington Bow Brooch“
Pearl and diamond brooch from the Duke and Duchess of Portland two entwined snakes with wings and pearl
Pearl and diamond bow brooch from her husband
Diamond and large Baroque-pearl brooch from Queen Alexandra
Diamond jeweled pendant with a pearshaped large pearl – people of Richmond
Brooch stutted with large black pearls from Lord and Lady Rothschild
Magnificent diamond and pearl bracelet from the Indian Princess
Pearl and Diamond Collier de chien | choker from the Thakore of Gondal – above on the left worne.
Pearl and diamond bracelet from Lord and Lady Burton
Pearl and diamond ring, designed by Collingwood, presented by Princes Adolphus, Francis and Alexander of Teck to their sister
A turquoise and diamond Tiara from her parents
A turquoise and diamond necklace
Turquoise and diamond earrings
Three turquoise and diamond brooches
Cluster brooch of diamonds with turquoise centre given by the Prince and Princess of Wales
Turquoise diamond bracelet from the Marquis and Marchioness of Salisbury
Turquoise and diamond cluster pin by the Marquis of Londenderry
Ruby and diamonds bracelet incorporating a detachable centrepiece in the shape of a rose from the County of Cornwall
Gold chain bracelet set with rubies and diamonds
Gold bangle with a heart of rubies
Diamond and ruby sleeve-links
Diamond and ruby brooch given by Mr Chaplin
Ruby and diamond feather brooch from the Ex-Queen of Spain
Watch bracelet in diamonds and rubies – Mr Gillett see on right>>
A belle époque diamond and ruby ring from her father in law ( passed to Princess Margaret and sold at auction)
Ruby, sapphire and diamond bangle bracelet from George, Duke of York
Sapphire and diamond bracelets from the Emperor and Empress of Russia
Sapphire and diamond bracelet
Large diamond and sapphires anchor brooch from her husband worn on the day of her wedding
Gold four-leaf shamrock pin, emeralds and diamonds by Sir Frederick and Lady Milner
Emerald and diamond brooch from the Tsarvitch
Emerald and sapphires ring from her three brothers. (Sold during the auction of Princess Margraret)
Cross of the 17th century, a trinket very much in fashion in olden timeswith our fair Norman kinswomen and in a case adorned with the two Sons of William the Conqueror. It has been sent from Neufchatel-en-Bray, an old town founded by Henry I of England and has been presented by Captain Le Clerc, of the French Embassy, in whose family it has been for many years
Amethyst and topaz bracelet – Lord & Lady Burton
Lace parasol with carved pin coral handle – from the Italian ambassador and Lady Tornielli
Little gold watch and chain inclosed in a small glass case formerly in the possession of the Empress Josephine from Dr Chittenden.
Four valuable pins – Mr A.J. Balfour
Diamond brooch with crystal centre – Earl and Countess of Leven
Small birthday book bound in gold and tortoiseshell, containing a miniature in ivory of the royal family and bearing a coronet and short inscription in diamonds and enamel – from the Baron and Baroness Lowenstein.
Bird in gold and enamel box – Sir Henry and Lady Meysey-Thomson
Bracelet of diamond and pierres from the People of Richmond
Diamond-set scarab and four stylised fleurs-de-lys Silver-gilt, straight-sided, quatrefoil-shaped box, with hinged lid, mounted with a red glass; from the members of the British Embassy in Berlin.
Gold Opera Glass from Tiffany with diamonds and pearls
**Source:Queens Diamonds,Hugh Roberts; thanks to Laura!