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The Romanov Sapphire | Empress Marie Alexandrovna’s Sapphire

The Odyssey of an Important Sapphire: From Imperial Tiara to Royal Sautoir

In 2007 and 2011, I first wrote about the jewels on my website. Now, my research has added important new insights to their history.

Empress Maria Alexandrovna*s Sapphire Tiara | Romanov Sapphire Parure Jewels | Tsarina Saphir Romanov RussiaR Sapphires Kokoshnik| Romanov Tiara

A beautiful antique kokoshnik tiara once in the possession of Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia,was photographed in 1908 when Grand Duke Paul of Russia gave it for cleaning to Cartier.
The antique kokoshnik is set with seven sapphire cabochons, all fastened in a cluster of diamonds and detachable from the frame made in gold and silver and richly set with diamonds in a geometric pattern.

The journey begins with a magnificent 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, originally part of a tiara belonging to Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia. This tiara and its sapphires were later in the possession of her son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich.


Sapphire Sautoir of Grand Duchess Kyrill| Grand Duchess Victoria Melita’s Cartier Sapphire Necklace

Victoria Melita Feodorovna Princess of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Grand Duchess of Russia, in 1894 married Ernst Ludwig of Hesse, (divorced 1900), and in 1905 married the Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovitch of Russia.

A war broke out between Russia and Japan. As a senior member of the navy, Kirill was sent on active service to the front in the Russo-Japanese War. His ship was blown up by a Japanese mine while entering Port Arthur and he was one of the few survivors. Sent home to recover, the Tsar finally allowed him permission to leave Russia and he left for Coburg to be with Victoria The narrow escape from death had hardened Kirill's determination to marry Victoria. "To those over whom the shadow of death has passed, life has a new meaning," Kirill wrote in his memoirs. "It is like daylight. And I was now within visible reach of fulfillment of the dream of my life. Nothing would cheat me of it now. I had gone through much. Now, at last, the future lay radiant before me." The couple married on 8 October 1905 in Tegernsee. It was a simple ceremony, with Victoria's mother, her sister Beatrice, and a friend, Count Adlerburg, in attendance, along with servants. The couple's uncle Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia was invited, without being told the reason

Grand Duchess Vladimir & Cartier’s Introduction (1908-1909):
In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna (née Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin), known as Grand Duchess Vladimir (wife of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich), discreetly inquired with Cartier in Paris about resetting a suite of these Romanov sapphires, likely mined in Ceylon. The sapphires had come to her husband’s side of the family, specifically from his brother Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich who died in 1908 and left the parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir.

Royal Sapphires Cartier Sautoir Necklace |Romania| Queen Consort Elisabeth of Greece

The name sapphire comes from the Greek word "sappheiros" for blue; above is an art deco sautoir made by Cartier with 2 blue cabochon sapphires, one is an egg-shaped star-sapphire of 311 ct and the gem of 35.13 ct.

Princess Elisabeth of Romania ( 1894 -1956) was the Queen Consort of King George II of Greece. She was the daughter of King Ferdinand I of Romania and his wife, Queen Marie. On 27 February 1921, she married the future King George, then Crown Prince, in Bucharest, but the marriage was not a success and ended in divorce in 1935. As a wedding present she got this amazing sapphire necklace from her parents.


Cartier’s ledgers note discussions about using the sapphires for a sautoir or a modern diadem. The grand 311-carat cabochon sapphire was specifically mentioned.
By June 1909, the original tiara was dismantled, and Cartier received the sapphires. While other sapphires from Grand Duchess Vladimir’s collection were sold, the impressive 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire was retained by Cartier, with a note in their vault inventory about it being held „per Cartier option.“ A minor scratch on its pavilion was noted, to be concealed in any new setting.

Grand Duchess Victoria Melita Commissions the Sautoir (1911):
In March 1911, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha), who was the wife of Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovich (the son of Grand Duchess Vladimir), placed an urgent order with Cartier.
She commissioned a sautoir to feature the 311-carat sapphire (explicitly noted in Cartier’s ledger as „provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] stock 1909“) alongside a newly acquired 35.12-carat Ceylon star sapphire. The design included 18 transitional diamonds and a platinum chain.
This sautoir was intended as a 15th-anniversary gift from her husband, Grand Duke Kirill. Cartier cleverly suspended the 311-carat gem as a pendant, concealing the previously noted scratch. The piece was delivered by May 1911 – learn more, take the link in bottom.



Revolution and a Sister’s Support:
After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita fled Russia, managing that her maid brought the jewels to her from the vault, while she was in exile.
At some point later, Victoria Melita sold the sautoir to her sister, Queen Marie of Romania.

Queen Consort Elizabeth of Greece Cartier Sapphire Diamond Sautoir| Star Sapphire Necklace Greece | Royal greek Jewels

The necklace is set with two important sapphires, probably originally from Ceylon(Sri Lanka). The suspended from a fine star sapphire, whose of a six-rayed star sapphire, whose effetely aligned crystal inclusions within the jewel was made by Cartier in 1911, but there is more history behind the sapphire sautoir and it's amazing large egg-shaped sapphir......
The Odyssey of a important Sapphire ...from imperial to royal treasures

In 1911, a 35.13-carat star sapphire—its six-rayed asterism so precise it seemed painted by the heavens—arrived at Cartier’s Paris workshop. Its companion: a 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, salvaged from a dismantled (Romanov) tiara. Together, they became a sautoir necklace for Grand Duchess Victoria Melita, a woman whose life would mirror the gem’s journey: luminous, fractured, and resilient.



A Royal Wedding Gift to Princess Elisabeth (1921):
In 1921, Queen Marie of Romania gifted this historic Cartier sautoir, featuring the 311-carat Romanov sapphire, to her daughter, Princess Elisabeth of Romania (Victoria Melita’s niece), for her marriage to Prince George of Greece (who would later become King George II of Greece).


Princess Elisabeth (later Queen of Greece) retained the sautoir even after her separation.
Following her death in 1956, the necklace „vanished into the private market.“
Today, this magnificent sautoir, a testament to Romanov splendor, Cartier’s artistry, and tumultuous royal lives, resides in a Swiss private collection and is occasionally loaned for prestigious exhibitions.

Empress Maria Alexandrovnas Sapphire Tiara | Romanov Sapphire Parure Jewels | Tsarina Saphir Romanov RussiaR Sapphires Kokoshnik| Romanov Tiara

Sapphire Sautoir of Grand Duchess Kyrill| Grand Duchess Victoria Melita’s Cartier Sapphire Necklace

Queen Consort Elizabeth of Greece Cartier Sapphire Diamond Sautoir| Star Sapphire Necklace Greece | Royal greek Jewels

Royal Sapphires Cartier Sautoir Necklace |Romania| Queen Consort Elisabeth of Greece

Carmen Tita Baroness Thyssen’s |Famous Emerald Jewelry | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings

tita thyssen emerald-flower.broche flor grande esmeralda Carmen Tita Tita Cervera’s Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewellery | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings
Carmen Tita Cervera’s Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewelry

Carmen Tita Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewellery | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings

Marianne Fürstin zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn | Flower Diamond Tiara Diadem Necklace | Princess Sofia zu Sayn-Wittgenstein Sayn Wedding Tiara| German Princess

Marianne Fürstin zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn | Flower Diamond Tiara Diadem Necklace | Princess Sofia zu Sayn-Wittgenstein Sayn Wedding Tiara| German Princess 9.12.1919 - 4.5.2025 Marianne „Manni“ Fürstin zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn ist im Alter von 105 Jahren gestorben.

Marianne Fürstin zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn | Flower Diamond Tiara Diadem Necklace | Princess Sofia zu Sayn-Wittgenstein Sayn Wedding Tiara| German Princess

Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin

The Sapphire and Diamond Necklace of Grand Duchess Alexandra

Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin The Sapphire and Diamond Necklace of Grand Duchess Alexandra
Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin


Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin

Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg’s Opal Parure |Opal Tiara | Opal Brooches| Opal Suite of 9 Pearshaped Pendants| Royal Imperial Historic Jewellery

Diadem Tiara Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg Opal Parure |Opal Tiara | Opal Brooches| Opal Suite of 9 Pearshaped Pendants| Royal Imperial Historic
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Wilhelm II, King of Württemberg and his wife Charlotte of Schaumburg-Lippe, Queen of Württemberg presented this suite of opal and diamond pendants as a wedding gift to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany in 1900, when she married Robert, Duke of Württemberg.

Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg Opal Parure |Opal Tiara | Opal Brooches| Opal Suite of 9 Pearshaped Pendants| Royal Imperial Historicc Jewellery

Duchess of Albany’s Pearl and Diamond Necklace |British Royal Jewels History

Royal Pearl Strings and Royal Pearl Necklace

Princess Helen, Duchess of Albany 1861-1922 , Wife of Prince Leopold, Duke of Albany; daughter of Prince George Victor of Waldeck-Pyrmont

Duchess of Albany's pearls and pearl strings royal pearl necklace, pearl chain, royal jewel history, royal jewellery,royals,royalty,german royalty,british royal jewels
The Duchess of Albany is painted with a 4 row pearl necklace and a pearl bracel

Princess Helen of Waldeck-Pyrmont| Prince Leopold Royal Bride of the Duke of Albany

The Duchess of Albany's important pearls, royal pearls. British royal jewel history. Last will of the Duchess of Albany. Orient pearl robes, pearl strings, pearl necklace, pearl collier, famous pearls.

We could see the Duchess of Albany wore a lot of pearl strings and pearl robes. It’s not known from who she was presented to her, yet.

But in the year 1916 the Times noted: Christie’s sold a pearl rope composed of a row of 258 large graduated pearls,the property of the Duchess of Albany, which was „knocked down“ at Pound 2700. This rope had often been worn by Queen Victoria. The proceeds of the sale are intended for the upkeep of the Deptford Fund, of which the Duchess of Albany has been President for over 21years and the Maternity Home of the Profession Classes War Relief Council.

Diamond Tiara of Helen Duchess of Albany | Royal Wedding Diadem and brooch

Princess Helen’s Snake Bracelet of Diamonds|Royal Jewel History| Prinzessin Helene’s Schlangenarmband aus Brillanten

Duchess of Albany's wedding gifts important snake bracelet diamonds and saphire head - serpent cuff, diamond serpent as bracelet, snake jewels Duchess of Albany -Princess Helen’s Diamond Snake Bracelet| Royal Jewel History British royal jewels
Duchess of Albany’s wedding gifts important snake bracelet diamonds and saphire head – Duchess of Albany -Princess Helen’s Diamond Snake Bracelet| Royal Jewel History British royal jewels

Royal Wedding gifts of Duchess Helen | Die königlichen Hochzeitsgeschenke der Herzogin Helen Albany engl.

Princess Waldeck – Pyrmonts Diamond Necklace | Diamond Starbust | Royal presents | Royal Jewel History | Geschenkeliste zur Vermählung in Deutsch

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Duchess of Albany’s Diamond Necklace and surays in diamond, wedding gifts from her husband the youngest son of Queen Victoria.

Bracelets | Wedding presents to Helen Princess of Waldeck-Pyrmont | Armbänder| Geschenke zur Hochzeit

Princess Helen Duchess of Albany's Sapphire Bracelet|Royal Bride of Prince Leopold Duke of Albany
Princess Helen Duchess of Albany’s Sapphire Bracelet|Royal Bride of Prince Leopold Duke of Albany

Rose of York Diamond Brooch | Duchess of Albany Jewels | Brautschmuck der Herzogin von Albany

Duchess of Albany's wedding gifts important snake bracelet diamonds and saphire head - serpent cuff, diamond serpent as bracelet, snake jewels Duchess of Albany -Princess Helen’s Diamond Snake Bracelet| Royal Jewel History British royal jewels Bridal wedding gifts royal wedding gifts
Duchess of Albany Rose of York Brooch – serpent cuff, diamond serpent as bracelet, snake jewels Duchess of Albany | Royal Jewel History British royal jewels

Princess Alice of Athlone Jewels | Helen Duchess of Albany | Fuchsia Diamond Wedding brooch

Ruby Diamond Tiara | Helen Duchess of Albany |Royal Jewels| Queen Victorias Indian Ruby and Diamond Tiara  

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The Duchess of Albany’s Ruby Diamond Tiara | Helen Duchess of Albany Jewels| Queen Victoria’s Indian Ruby and Diamond Tiara

Diamond Jewels | Helen Duchess of Albany |Diamond Spray Brooch – Devante de Corsage | Stomacher

Türkisschmuck der Herzogin Viktoria Adelheid von Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha

Royal Jewels Saxe -Coburg Turquoise Jewels | History

Erbprinzessin Kelly von Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha mit der Königlichen Türkis-Parure

Diamanthalsband der Herzogin von Albany | Königlicher Hochzeitsschmuck der Erbprinzessin von Sachsen-Coburg und Gotha

Diamond Tiara Garland Style|Countess Merveldt Gräfin Merveldt’s Garland Diadem| German

Diamond Tiara Garland Style|Countess Merveldt Gräfin Merveldt's Garland Diadem| German Royal , garland tiaras, aristocratic tiaras, style of Louis XIV. cartier garland style, diadem, garland style diademe,diademas,joyas reales, diamonds,diamond tiara, tiara,german nobles
Diamond Tiara Garland Style|Countess Merveldt Gräfin Merveldt’s Garland Diadem|
German Royal and Nobles Jewels History

Diamond Tiara Garland Style|Countess Merveldt Gräfin Merveldt’s Garland Diadem| German Royal

Archduke Pal of Habsburg-Lothringen & Archduchess Antonia wedding 2024 Bridal Tiara Diamond Oak Leaves Tiara Diadem

Archduke Pal of Habsburg-Lothringen, Archduchess Antonia wedding 2024 Bridal Tiara Diamond Oak Leaves Tiara Diadem - Erzherzog Pal und Antonia Lütz Erzherzogin von Österreich Hochzeit Bonn 2024 Diamant Diadem Tiara Eichenblatt Diadem Tiara aus Diamanten
Archduke Pal of Habsburg-Lothringen, Archduchess Antonia wedding 2024 Bridal Tiara Diamond Oak Leaves Tiara Diadem – Erzherzog Pal und Antonia Lütz Erzherzogin von Österreich Hochzeit Bonn 2024 Diamant Diadem Tiara Eichenblatt Diadem Tiara aus Diamanten

Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen

13. August 2024

Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden (SKD), zur neuen Präsentation der Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe

Grünes Gewölbe Dresden - Green Vault Saxony's royal jewels - queens diamonds - royal saxony
Grünes Gewölbe Dresden – Green Vault Saxony’s royal jewels – green vault treasury jewel room – Grünes Gewölbe und Rüstkammer der SKD 13.08.24 im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss Dresden // Foto: David Pinzer

Fast fünf Jahre waren seit dem spektakulären Einbruch in das Historische Grüne Gewölbe vergangen, als endlich ein Lichtblick am Horizont erschien. Die Juwelen, die im Dezember 2022 nach langen Ermittlungen zurückerlangt wurden, sollten nun erstmals wieder der Öffentlichkeit präsentiert werden. Es war ein bedeutender Moment, auf den viele lange gewartet hatten.

Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss
Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss

Das Landgericht Dresden hatte seine Zustimmung gegeben, die kostbaren Stücke an ihren angestammten Platz zurückzubringen. Trotz dieser Rückkehr blieben die Juwelen weiterhin für die gerichtliche Begutachtung unter Sicherstellung, doch ihre Anwesenheit im Grünen Gewölbe erlaubte es den Menschen, das Museum wieder in seiner fast vollständigen Pracht zu erleben. Die Vitrine, die einst leer und verlassen gewirkt hatte, erstrahlte nun erneut und zog zahlreiche Besucherinnen und Besucher an, die sich von der Schönheit und dem Glanz der ausgestellten Stücke verzaubern ließen.

Die Juwelen selbst wurden in dem Zustand präsentiert, in dem sie den Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden übergeben worden waren. Trotz der kaum sichtbaren, aber dennoch vorhandenen Schäden, die eine Restaurierung erforderlich machten, strahlte das barocke Schmuckensemble eine einzigartige Aura aus, die es weltweit in seiner Art unübertroffen machte. Inmitten dieser Pracht wurde deutlich, dass Museen weit mehr sind als nur Orte des Schauens – sie sind Bewahrer und Forscher kultureller Werte. Hier, im Grünen Gewölbe, zählte nicht allein der materielle Wert der Juwelen, sondern vor allem ihr kultureller und historischer Wert.

Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss
Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss

Die Rückkehr dieser Juwelen bedeutete eine neue Phase der Hoffnung und Erwartung. Es waren Werke der sächsischen und internationalen Juwelierkunst des 18. Jahrhunderts, die als künstlerische Hauptwerke galten. Die Schäden, die sie erlitten hatten, schienen zwar reparierbar, doch diese Aufgabe würde eine internationale Expertenkommission übernehmen, sobald die Juwelen endgültig freigegeben würden.

Doch es blieb ein Wunsch, der nicht erlosch: Eines Tages würden vielleicht auch die übrigen verlorenen Juwelen wieder ihren Weg zurück ins Grüne Gewölbe finden. Die Soko Epaulette, die die Ermittlungen weiterführte, ließ keinen Hinweis unbeachtet. Es war eine leise, aber entschlossene Hoffnung, die hinter den Mauern des Museums lebte.

Die Vergangenheit konnte zwar nicht rückgängig gemacht werden, aber die Zukunft sollte sicherer sein. Die Sicherheitsarchitektur, die die Sammlungen und Liegenschaften schützte, war gründlich überarbeitet worden. In enger Zusammenarbeit mit den zuständigen Behörden wurden Maßnahmen ergriffen, um sicherzustellen, dass ein solcher Einbruch niemals wieder geschehen könnte. So blickte man im Grünen Gewölbe nach vorn, mit einem neu gefestigten Vertrauen und dem Wissen, dass die Kultur und Geschichte, die in diesen Mauern bewahrt wird, sicherer war als je zuvor.

August des Starken King of Sachsen’s Diamond Treasury – the Historic Green Vault

Nearly five years had passed since the dramatic break-in at the Historic Green Vault, when at last a glimmer of hope emerged. The jewels, recovered in December 2022 after extensive investigations, were now ready to be displayed to the public for the first time. It was a momentous occasion, long awaited by many.

The Dresden Regional Court had granted permission for these precious pieces to be returned to their rightful place. Though the jewels remained under judicial custody for further examination, their presence in the Green Vault allowed the museum to once again be seen in nearly all its former splendor. The once empty and forlorn display case now shone brightly, drawing countless visitors who were captivated by the beauty and brilliance of the treasures on display.

The jewels were presented in the exact condition in which they had been returned to the State Art Collections of Dresden. Despite the barely visible yet existent damage that required restoration, the baroque jewelry ensemble radiated a unique aura, unmatched anywhere in the world. It was a powerful reminder that museums are far more than mere places for viewing—they are guardians and researchers of cultural values. Here, in the Green Vault, the jewels‘ cultural and historical significance far outweighed their material value.

The return of these jewels marked a new phase of hope and anticipation. These pieces were masterpieces of 18th-century Saxon and international jewelry craftsmanship, and despite the damage they had suffered, experts believed they were repairable. An international commission of experts was set to take on the restoration work once the jewels were fully released.

Yet, one wish remained unfulfilled: that one day, the other missing jewels might also find their way back to the Green Vault. The ongoing efforts of the „Soko Epaulette“ investigative team ensured that no lead was overlooked. It was a quiet but determined hope that resonated within the museum’s walls.

While the past could not be undone, the future was made more secure. The security architecture protecting the collections and properties had been thoroughly revised. In close collaboration with the relevant authorities, measures were implemented to ensure that such an intrusion could never happen again. And so, the Green Vault looked forward with renewed confidence, knowing that the culture and history preserved within its walls were safer than ever before.


Duchess of Oldenburg’s Diamond Loop Tiara | Herzogin Katharina von Oldenburgs Hochzeits Diadem

Duchess of Oldenburg's diamond loop tiara | Herzogin Katharina von Oldenburgs Hochzeits Diadem - german royals,german duchess, herzogin von Oldenburgs Diamant Diadem, Bridal Diamond Tiara, German Monarchy, German Royalty, Royal Wedding, Gräfin Moy, Katharina Bibiane Edwina Isabelle Herzogin Oldenburg Clemens Graf von Moy le Sons
Duchess of Oldenburg’s diamond loop tiara | Herzogin Katharina von Oldenburgs Hochzeits Diadem

It looks like she wore a historic court train from the year 1878 see more

Doppelhochzeit im Hause Preussen| Prinzessin Charlotte mit der Preussischen Prinzessinnenkrone|Royale Juwelen Kronschatz Hohenzollern
Prinzessin Elisabeth Anna von Preussen | Erbgroßherzogin von Oldenburg| Sternen Diadem Diamanten |Royale Hochzeit Kaiserliche Geschenke
Diamond Star Tiara Diadem|Princess Elisabeth Anna of Prussia| Grand Duchess of Oldenburg|Germany|Royal Imperial Jewelry