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Great Jewelry Collectors Important Jewels, the story behind

The Romanov Sapphire | Empress Marie Alexandrovna’s Sapphire

The Odyssey of an Important Sapphire: From Imperial Tiara to Royal Sautoir

In 2007 and 2011, I first wrote about the jewels on my website. Now, my research has added important new insights to their history.

Empress Maria Alexandrovna*s Sapphire Tiara | Romanov Sapphire Parure Jewels | Tsarina Saphir Romanov RussiaR Sapphires Kokoshnik| Romanov Tiara

A beautiful antique kokoshnik tiara once in the possession of Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia,was photographed in 1908 when Grand Duke Paul of Russia gave it for cleaning to Cartier.
The antique kokoshnik is set with seven sapphire cabochons, all fastened in a cluster of diamonds and detachable from the frame made in gold and silver and richly set with diamonds in a geometric pattern.

The journey begins with a magnificent 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, originally part of a tiara belonging to Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia. This tiara and its sapphires were later in the possession of her son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich.


Sapphire Sautoir of Grand Duchess Kyrill| Grand Duchess Victoria Melita’s Cartier Sapphire Necklace

Victoria Melita Feodorovna Princess of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Grand Duchess of Russia, in 1894 married Ernst Ludwig of Hesse, (divorced 1900), and in 1905 married the Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovitch of Russia.

A war broke out between Russia and Japan. As a senior member of the navy, Kirill was sent on active service to the front in the Russo-Japanese War. His ship was blown up by a Japanese mine while entering Port Arthur and he was one of the few survivors. Sent home to recover, the Tsar finally allowed him permission to leave Russia and he left for Coburg to be with Victoria The narrow escape from death had hardened Kirill's determination to marry Victoria. "To those over whom the shadow of death has passed, life has a new meaning," Kirill wrote in his memoirs. "It is like daylight. And I was now within visible reach of fulfillment of the dream of my life. Nothing would cheat me of it now. I had gone through much. Now, at last, the future lay radiant before me." The couple married on 8 October 1905 in Tegernsee. It was a simple ceremony, with Victoria's mother, her sister Beatrice, and a friend, Count Adlerburg, in attendance, along with servants. The couple's uncle Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia was invited, without being told the reason

Grand Duchess Vladimir & Cartier’s Introduction (1908-1909):
In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna (née Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin), known as Grand Duchess Vladimir (wife of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich), discreetly inquired with Cartier in Paris about resetting a suite of these Romanov sapphires, likely mined in Ceylon. The sapphires had come to her husband’s side of the family, specifically from his brother Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich who died in 1908 and left the parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir.

Royal Sapphires Cartier Sautoir Necklace |Romania| Queen Consort Elisabeth of Greece

The name sapphire comes from the Greek word "sappheiros" for blue; above is an art deco sautoir made by Cartier with 2 blue cabochon sapphires, one is an egg-shaped star-sapphire of 311 ct and the gem of 35.13 ct.

Princess Elisabeth of Romania ( 1894 -1956) was the Queen Consort of King George II of Greece. She was the daughter of King Ferdinand I of Romania and his wife, Queen Marie. On 27 February 1921, she married the future King George, then Crown Prince, in Bucharest, but the marriage was not a success and ended in divorce in 1935. As a wedding present she got this amazing sapphire necklace from her parents.


Cartier’s ledgers note discussions about using the sapphires for a sautoir or a modern diadem. The grand 311-carat cabochon sapphire was specifically mentioned.
By June 1909, the original tiara was dismantled, and Cartier received the sapphires. While other sapphires from Grand Duchess Vladimir’s collection were sold, the impressive 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire was retained by Cartier, with a note in their vault inventory about it being held „per Cartier option.“ A minor scratch on its pavilion was noted, to be concealed in any new setting.

Grand Duchess Victoria Melita Commissions the Sautoir (1911):
In March 1911, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha), who was the wife of Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovich (the son of Grand Duchess Vladimir), placed an urgent order with Cartier.
She commissioned a sautoir to feature the 311-carat sapphire (explicitly noted in Cartier’s ledger as „provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] stock 1909“) alongside a newly acquired 35.12-carat Ceylon star sapphire. The design included 18 transitional diamonds and a platinum chain.
This sautoir was intended as a 15th-anniversary gift from her husband, Grand Duke Kirill. Cartier cleverly suspended the 311-carat gem as a pendant, concealing the previously noted scratch. The piece was delivered by May 1911 – learn more, take the link in bottom.



Revolution and a Sister’s Support:
After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita fled Russia, managing that her maid brought the jewels to her from the vault, while she was in exile.
At some point later, Victoria Melita sold the sautoir to her sister, Queen Marie of Romania.

Queen Consort Elizabeth of Greece Cartier Sapphire Diamond Sautoir| Star Sapphire Necklace Greece | Royal greek Jewels

The necklace is set with two important sapphires, probably originally from Ceylon(Sri Lanka). The suspended from a fine star sapphire, whose of a six-rayed star sapphire, whose effetely aligned crystal inclusions within the jewel was made by Cartier in 1911, but there is more history behind the sapphire sautoir and it's amazing large egg-shaped sapphir......
The Odyssey of a important Sapphire ...from imperial to royal treasures

In 1911, a 35.13-carat star sapphire—its six-rayed asterism so precise it seemed painted by the heavens—arrived at Cartier’s Paris workshop. Its companion: a 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, salvaged from a dismantled (Romanov) tiara. Together, they became a sautoir necklace for Grand Duchess Victoria Melita, a woman whose life would mirror the gem’s journey: luminous, fractured, and resilient.



A Royal Wedding Gift to Princess Elisabeth (1921):
In 1921, Queen Marie of Romania gifted this historic Cartier sautoir, featuring the 311-carat Romanov sapphire, to her daughter, Princess Elisabeth of Romania (Victoria Melita’s niece), for her marriage to Prince George of Greece (who would later become King George II of Greece).


Princess Elisabeth (later Queen of Greece) retained the sautoir even after her separation.
Following her death in 1956, the necklace „vanished into the private market.“
Today, this magnificent sautoir, a testament to Romanov splendor, Cartier’s artistry, and tumultuous royal lives, resides in a Swiss private collection and is occasionally loaned for prestigious exhibitions.

Empress Maria Alexandrovnas Sapphire Tiara | Romanov Sapphire Parure Jewels | Tsarina Saphir Romanov RussiaR Sapphires Kokoshnik| Romanov Tiara

Sapphire Sautoir of Grand Duchess Kyrill| Grand Duchess Victoria Melita’s Cartier Sapphire Necklace

Queen Consort Elizabeth of Greece Cartier Sapphire Diamond Sautoir| Star Sapphire Necklace Greece | Royal greek Jewels

Royal Sapphires Cartier Sautoir Necklace |Romania| Queen Consort Elisabeth of Greece

Carmen Tita Baroness Thyssen’s |Famous Emerald Jewelry | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings

tita thyssen emerald-flower.broche flor grande esmeralda Carmen Tita Tita Cervera’s Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewellery | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings
Carmen Tita Cervera’s Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewelry

Carmen Tita Baronesse Thyssen |Famous Emerald Jewellery | Important Emerald Diamond Flower Brooch| Emerald Diamond Necklace and Earrings

Devante de Corsage – The Empress Eugenie Tassel Bow Brooch | Nancy Astor’s Jewels

Nancy Astor, Lady Astor, British Royal Jewels - diamond brooch, diamond tiara, diamond jewels, histioric Jewellery, Nancy Astors Jewels, Important Antique Old Mine Diamond Bow Brooch. Formerly Property of Caroline Astor. Sold for $258,500.

More of the Diamants De La Couronne >>

Feuilles de Groseillier Diamant Parure | Diamants | Joyaux de la Couronne France |Diamants de la Couronne de France

4 Perles Broches Brillants | Joyaux de la Couronne France |Diamants de la Couronne de France

2 Bracelets with Brilliants & Pearls | Empress Eugenie| French Crown Jewels|Diamants de la Couronne de France

Pair of Great Shoulder Knot Brooches with Diamonds | Diamants de la Couronne de France| French Crown Jewels

Empress Eugénie – Jewels Anchor Diamond Brooches Empress Eugénie – Jewel History France | Anker Broschen Kaiserin Eugenie von Frankreich

Diamants bleu | Zwei Anker mit geheimnisvollen Diamanten der Kaiserin Eugénie

Broché rubis perles et diamants Eugénie | Brosche mit drei Tropfenperlen, Rubinen und Diamanten der Kaiserin Eugénie

Three pearl and diamond fringe pendants composed of large stones | Broché rubis perles et diamants Eugénie brooch| later in the possession of the Mis Ernest G Raphael nee Sassoon

Couronnette Perles et Brillants | Joyaux de la Couronne France |Diamants de la Couronne de France | French Crown Jewels

Devant de Corsage-Brooch| Bow Brooch with Fringes and Diamonds |French Crown Jewels Empress Eugenie Grand noeud de corsage de l’impératrice Eugénie Histoire des diamants de la Couronne de France

Countess of Beauchamp | Royal Imperial Jewels of Lady Lettice Grosvenor| Bow Diamond Stomacher Empress Eugenie

The Astor Turquoise and Diamond Tiara of carved turquoise and diamonds |Boucheron and Cartier

The Astor Turquoise and Diamond Tiara of carved turquoise and diamonds by both Boucheron and Cartier|Royal Jewel History Viscountess Astor,Turquoise tiara,turquoise diadem,turquoise cartier tiara,turquoise diamond cartier tiara,turquoise diamond boucheron cartier tiara,art deco tiara,diademe,diademas,tiare,astor,lady astor,nancy astor,astor family jewels,Tiara,brooch,royal jewels,schmuck,tiaras,diadem,diamant,diamonds,jewellry,jewellery,joaillier,Joaillerie,jewelhistory,art deco bandeau,art deco, turquoise leaves,carved turquoises,dollarprincess,the astor family collection,diamond tiaras
The Astor Turquoise and Diamond Tiara of carved turquoise and diamonds made by Boucheron and Cartier|Royal Jewel History Viscountess Astor

The Astor Turquoise and Diamond Tiara of carved turquoise and diamonds by Boucheron and Cartier

Devante de Corsage – The Empress Eugenie Tassel Bow Brooch

(Nancy) Jane Marie Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 28th Baroness Willoughby de Eresby is her daughter.

Lady Rose Astor van Cutsem Flower Wedding Tiara

Marchioness of Cholomondeley Diamond Tiara| History | Heirloom Jewels

Ancaster Diamond Tiara Spray Brooches | Jewelhistory

Ancaster Heathcote Diamond Tiara | Jewelry | Willoughby d’Eresby

Princess Irina Yusupova’s Diamond Sunburst Tiara| CHAUMET

Princess Yusupova sunburst tiara featuring a radiant sun motif made by CHAUMET in 1914

Princess Yusupova sunburst tiara featuring a radiant sun motif made by CHAUMET for   Irina of Russia Diadème soleil articulé réalisé par Chaumet en 1914 pour la princesse Youssoupoff née princesse Irina de Russie, Irina Aleksandrovna Yusupova

Diadème soleil articulé réalisé par Chaumet en 1914 pour la princesse Youssoupoff née princesse Irina de Russie, Irina Aleksandrovna Yusupova

The Emperor of Austria’s Pearl and Diamond Brooch given to Prince Franz of Teck | Imperial Christening present

Francis (‚Frank‘) Joseph Leopold Frederick, Prince of Teck, born at Kensington Palace, London, 9 January 1870, the second son of Francis, Prince and Duke of Teck, by his wife Princess Mary Adelaide of Cambridge, the daughter of Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge the seventh son of King George III. His father had been created Duke of Teck by the King of Württemberg in 1863, a title recognized in Austria in 1864.

He was named after his God father, the Emperor Franz Josef of Austria.

A.E.Koechert Design - Brooch 1870 -Godfather present - imperial Gift to Prince Francis Franz of Teck, worn by his mother the Duchess of Teck, Cambridge  - later Queen Mary - Queen Elizabeth II british royal jewel history
Courtjeweller A.E.Koechert Design – Brooch 1870 -Godfather present -splendid imperial Gift to Prince Francis Franz of Teck, worn by his mother the Duchess of Teck, Princess of Cambridge -used by the Countess of Kilmorey left to Princess Victoria of Great Britain and Ireland  later in the possession of Queen Mary – and left to Queen Elizabeth II

ROYAL CHRISTENING. Royal Christening. —On Thursday, the second son of his Serene Highness the Prince and her Royal Highness the Princess of Teck was christened at Kensington Palace. The ceremony was performed by the Right Reverend the Bishop of London, assisted by the Rev. Evan Nepean and the Rev. Mr. Bullack. The infant Prince received the names Francis Joseph Leopold Frederick. The sponsors were the Emperor of Austria, represented his Excellency the Austrian Ambassador bis Royal Highness Prince Leopold, his Royal Highness Prince Frederick of Württemberg, the Queen of the Belgians, represented by her Serene Highness the Princess Claudine of Teck, her Royal Highness Princess Christian, her Royal Highness Princess Louise, and Miss Burdett Coutts. There were present their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince Albert Victor, and Prince George; their Highnesses Prince and Princess Christian, her Royal Highness Princess Louise, his Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge, her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge, traditional an imperial christening gift was presented.

Gemeinde-Zeitung: unabhängiges politisches Journal 16. März 1870 – Am 11. d. M. fand im Palast von Kensington die Taufe des
zweiten Sohnes, der jüngst dem Fürsten von Teck geboren wurde, statt.
Taufpathen waren der Kaiser von Oesterreich (vertreten durch den Botschafter Grafen Apponyi), Prinz Friedrich von Würtemberg, Prinz Leopold,die Königin, (vertreten durch die Prinzessin Claudine v. Teck), die Prin-
zessinen Christina und Louise und Fräulein Burdett Coutts. Der Prinz von Wales nebst Gemalin und Kindern und die übrigen hier anwesenden Mitglieder der königlichen Familie waren bei dem Taufakte zugegen, den der Bischof von London vollzog. Das Kind erhielt den Namen Franz Josef Leopold und Friedrich. Ein Taufgeschenk des Kaisers wurde übergeben.

The Emperor of Austria Pearl and Diamond Brooch gift to Queen Mary's Brother Francis of Teck |Queen Elizabeth II Brooches|Royal Jewels Great Britain and Ireland
The Emperor of Austria Pearl and Diamond Brooch gift to Queen Mary’s Brother Francis of Teck |Queen Elizabeth II Brooches|Royal Jewels Great Britain and Ireland

The Emperor of Austria Pearl and Diamond Brooch gift to Queen Mary’s Brother Francis of Teck |Queen Elizabeth II Brooches|Royal Jewels Great Britain and Ireland

Queen Marie of Romania|Star Sapphires Choker Diamond Necklace|Collier de Chien| Royal Jewel History

Queen Marie of Romania|Star Sapphires Choker Diamond Necklace|Collier de Chien| Royal Jewel History Regina Marie Royal Family Roumania - Collier de Chien, famous royal Jewellery, Romanian royals Hohenzollern
Birthday gift to Queen Marie of Romania in 1902 |Star Sapphires Choker Diamond Necklace|Collier de Chien| Royal Jewel History Regina Marie Royal Family Roumania

Queen Marie of Romania|Star Sapphires Choker Diamond Necklace|Collier de Chien| Royal Jewel History

Infanta Beatrice of Spain | Spanish Royal Wedding 1935 Torlonia| Princess of Civitella-Cesi

Infanta Beatriz Isabel Federica Alfonsa Eugénie Cristina Maria Teresia Bienvenida Ladislàa de Borbón y Battenberg, Princess Torlonia Princess of Civitella-Cesi Infanta Beatrice of Spain | Spanish Royal Wedding 1935 Torlonia| Princess of Civitella-Cesi   infante beatrice aigue-marine

Infanta Beatriz Isabel Federica Alfonsa Eugénie Cristina Maria Teresia Bienvenida Ladislàa de Borbón y Battenberg, Princess Torlonia Princess of Civitella-Cesi Royal Wedding Gifts | Royal Diamond Earrings

Chaumet Art Deco Tiara | American Heiress – Dollarprincess Margaret Thompson Biddle | Important Jewels

Chaumet Art Deco Tiara | American Heiress - Dollarprincess Margaret Thompson Biddle | Halo Tiaras
Romanov Diamond Riviere  Mrs Margaret Thompson Biddle, an american heiress and wife of the Ambassador Anthony Drexel Biddle Jr. 

Mrs Biddles important jewellery
Mrs Margaret Thompson Biddle, an american heiress and wife of the Ambassador Anthony Drexel Biddle Jr., wearing the altered Romanov diamond riviere necklace, pendeloques of pearshaped diamonds in the 1960th.

Mrs Margaret Thompson Biddle, an american heiress and wife of the Ambassador Anthony Drexel Biddle Jr.

Margaret Thompson Biddle |Chaumet Art Deco Diamond Tiara| Important Chaumet Tiaras History

Halo Tiara | Rani Shanker’s Diamond Cartier Diadem | Nepal Royal Family Treasure

A jewellery exhibition for charity was held at Cartier’s Cocktails to celebrate the opening of a new H.Q. for Messrs. Bumpus Miss Beryl Heim and Miss Heather Mason. They are pupils at the John Douglas Finishing School.

The jewel exhibition by Cartier’s helped the National Playing Fields Association Bumpus, the booksellers, gave the party to open their new shop at 6 Baker Street.

Mr. H. E. Bates and Mr. J. G. Wilson (chairman of Bumpus). /Vlr. E. M. Forster and Mr. John Morris. Mrs. Frank Coven and Mrs. Roma Fairley, the author, whose new book, The Small Screen, is being published soon Mrs. David Greig with Lady (Noel) Curtis Bennett whose husband founded the National Playing Fields Association Mr. Graham D. Llewellyn of Sotheby’s and Mrs. C. Dresner. Airs. W. Redford and Mr. E. Schwaiger Desmond U’in&iII Sir Robert Lady Hobart. He is associated with the House of Eraser Lady Cynthia Colville with Col. Jocelyn Gibbs (managing director of Geoffrey Bles and a director of Bumpus).Mr. Frank Swinnerton with Mr. R. Hart- Davis (of Rupert Hart-Davis, Ltd., publishers) Van Hallar.

We can see the Halo Tiara on display!

halo tiara, Halo Tiaras, Cartier Diamond Tiara, Royal Tiaras,Nepal Royal Family Treasure, Rani Shanker, Cartier Exbhibiton 1958 London, the tiara was on display. Cartier Tiara - Maharajas Tiara, Diamond Jewels Mugal Tiara
Halo tiara, Halo Tiaras| Cartier Diamond Tiara, Royal Tiaras, Nepal Royal Family Treasure, Rani Shanker, Cartier Exbhibiton 1958 London, the tiara was on display. Cartier Tiara – Maharajas Tiara, Diamond Jewels Mugal Tiara
halo tiara, Halo Tiaras, Cartier Diamond Tiara, Royal Tiaras,Nepal Royal Family Treasure, Rani Shanker, Cartier Exbhibiton 1958 London, the tiara was on display. Cartier Tiara - Maharajas Tiara, Diamond Jewels Mugal Tiara, Nepalese Royalty, Ranee Shanker's Halo Tiara, Diamond Halo Diadem

Cartier Halo Diamond Tiara Rani Shanker | Nepal Royal Family | Jewels

Halo Tiara Rani Shanker of Nepal| Royal Jewels Nepal

Cartier Diamond Halo Tiara – Royal Family of Nepal