


Russia | Imperial Court Russian Families Royal Jewellery & Aristocratic Jewels Jewelry
The Odyssey of an Important Sapphire: From Imperial Tiara to Royal Sautoir
In 2007 and 2011, I first wrote about the jewels on my website. Now, my research has added important new insights to their history.
The journey begins with a magnificent 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, originally part of a tiara belonging to Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia. This tiara and its sapphires were later in the possession of her son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich.
Grand Duchess Vladimir & Cartier’s Introduction (1908-1909):
In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna (née Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin), known as Grand Duchess Vladimir (wife of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich), discreetly inquired with Cartier in Paris about resetting a suite of these Romanov sapphires, likely mined in Ceylon. The sapphires had come to her husband’s side of the family, specifically from his brother Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich who died in 1908 and left the parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir.
Cartier’s ledgers note discussions about using the sapphires for a sautoir or a modern diadem. The grand 311-carat cabochon sapphire was specifically mentioned.
By June 1909, the original tiara was dismantled, and Cartier received the sapphires. While other sapphires from Grand Duchess Vladimir’s collection were sold, the impressive 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire was retained by Cartier, with a note in their vault inventory about it being held „per Cartier option.“ A minor scratch on its pavilion was noted, to be concealed in any new setting.
Grand Duchess Victoria Melita Commissions the Sautoir (1911):
In March 1911, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha), who was the wife of Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovich (the son of Grand Duchess Vladimir), placed an urgent order with Cartier.
She commissioned a sautoir to feature the 311-carat sapphire (explicitly noted in Cartier’s ledger as „provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] stock 1909“) alongside a newly acquired 35.12-carat Ceylon star sapphire. The design included 18 transitional diamonds and a platinum chain.
This sautoir was intended as a 15th-anniversary gift from her husband, Grand Duke Kirill. Cartier cleverly suspended the 311-carat gem as a pendant, concealing the previously noted scratch. The piece was delivered by May 1911 – learn more, take the link in bottom.
Revolution and a Sister’s Support:
After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita fled Russia, managing that her maid brought the jewels to her from the vault, while she was in exile.
At some point later, Victoria Melita sold the sautoir to her sister, Queen Marie of Romania.
A Royal Wedding Gift to Princess Elisabeth (1921):
In 1921, Queen Marie of Romania gifted this historic Cartier sautoir, featuring the 311-carat Romanov sapphire, to her daughter, Princess Elisabeth of Romania (Victoria Melita’s niece), for her marriage to Prince George of Greece (who would later become King George II of Greece).
Princess Elisabeth (later Queen of Greece) retained the sautoir even after her separation.
Following her death in 1956, the necklace „vanished into the private market.“
Today, this magnificent sautoir, a testament to Romanov splendor, Cartier’s artistry, and tumultuous royal lives, resides in a Swiss private collection and is occasionally loaned for prestigious exhibitions.
Princess Elisabeth of Hesse and by Rhine daughter of Ernst-Ludwig, last Grand Duke of Hesse and by Rhine, and Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha
What’s happened about this treasure…..
The 32 Faberge Easter Eggs in Detail from the Collection of Princess Elisabeth of Hesse
A mystery is solved about a part of the Romanov Crown Jewels:
More about the history of an extraordinary necklace, from the Russian Empresses to the heiress and ambassadress Mrs Thompson-Biddle in Paris.
Mrs Margaret Thompson Biddle, an american heiress and wife of the Ambassador Anthony Drexel Biddle Jr.
Mrs. BIDDLE Paris 1948 Opera l’O.N.U le president de la Republique, des ministres, des ambassadeurs— the press noted:
La plus belle rivière de diamants de l assemblée. Fourreau de velours noir brodé de strass de Balenciaga.
«Leurs» robes et «leurs» bijoux
LA BARONNE SELLIERE. — Brocart bleu et blanc, rivière et bracelets de diamants.
LA PRINCESSE DE FAUCIGNY-LUCINGE. — Tout en noir ; n’a pas quitté son chapeau (tyrolien à plumes) ni sa cape de zibeline. Pas de bijoux.
Mrs. BIDDLE. — La plus belle rivière de diamants de 1 assemblée. Fourreau de velours noir brodé de strass de Balenciaga.
LA DUCHESSE DE MAILLE. — Jupe de tulle et corselet bleu saphir sans épaulettes. Triple collier d’émeraudes et diamants
LA COMTESSE DE CASTELLANE. — Satin noir à épaulettes, triplé rang de perles.
Mme VOLTERRA. — Satin noir broché or, pendante et bracelets de diamants. Cheveux « hermine rosée ».
LA PRINCESSE GALITZINE. — Velours noir, cheveux argentés, toutes les bagues au même doigt.
LA COMTESSE DE POLIGNAC (Jeanne Lan vin Junior). — Cheveux cendrés, fourreau velours noir et satin vert ; pas de bijoux.
ANNABELLA. — Long fourreau blanc à « cornichons » d’or ; bracelets de diamants.
PRALINE (Miss Cinémonde). — Fourreau de satin gris acier brodé par Balmaln, longue cape de renard blanc.
Patricia ROC. — Justaucorns de tulle nègre et jupe de tulle blanc, pas de bijoux, cheveux argent.
Espanita CORTEZ. — Mantille de dentelle noire (naturellement), cape de renard platine et fourreau de satin noir.
IA DUCHESSE DE PREMIO REAL. — Tulle blanc et dentelle noire, pendentif et collier de diamants.
Mme CONSTANTIN ESCO. — Moire périnée de mauve et blanc (de Jacques Fath), avec une lourde parure de rubis et diamants.
Josette DAYDE. — Gorgerette et fourreau de satin gris.
Renée SAINT-CYR. — Cheveux flous sur les épaules, cape de renard platine.
Maria MONTEZ. — Robe de mousseline bayadère bleu et blanc, cheveux coupés court* sur les oreilles, pas de bijoux.
Mme FRANCHOT TONE. — Fourreau noir à revers de satin rose au corsage sans épaulettes, étole de satin rose et coiffure très américaine avec frange du plus franc blond platine.
Maureen O’HARA. — Robe de style en dentelle vert émeraude, cheveux rouge sang, maquillage pâle, pa* de bijoux.
Germaine ROGER. — Robe de satin framboise et boléro de renard bleu.
Archival records give an idea of the gift. In addition, the inventory in 1838 showed that on January 2, 1842, the following was delivered to the jeweler Bolin from the Diamond Room of the Winter Palace: „Diamonds in the pieces (unset) of paper available from the converted units. Four diamonds weighing 3 Karat (a tiara with pearls to use January 2, 1842), the same polished 64 ‚/ short. From this lot polished faces of the same weight 22 ‚/ 32 fold on a tiara with pearls January 2, 1842, from the bodice with Pearls. A diamond weighing 1 3/32 times from the range. Purchased for a tiara with pearls January 2, 1842″ * notes 423
Nevertheless, the legendary diamond tiara, made in 1842, including diamonds , was worth 87,478 rubles. 424 *notes Corresp.Bolin;Zimin
siehe A.Zimin Buch Geschenke des Zaren AlexanderII 2013
The exquisite „Grand Duchess Vladimir tiara,“ a cherished adornment frequently graced upon the late Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, holds a captivating historical narrative. Delving into the annals of time, we discover that this regal treasure’s lineage traces back to an era imbued with imperial splendor.
Originally procured by Queen Elizabeth’s illustrious grandmother, Queen Mary, the tiara was acquired in 1921 from none other than the daughter of Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna of Russia. This acquisition came to pass subsequent to the clandestine removal of the tiara from the tumultuous grips of revolutionary Russia. Long-held assumptions suggested that it had been bestowed upon Maria as a wedding gift during her union with Grand Duke Vladimir in 1874.
However, the Grand Duchess Vladimir tiara, it turns out, is steeped in an even more venerable history. Imbued with an air of aristocracy, this magnificent artifact was, in fact, crafted three decades prior, in a bygone era.
Its inception took place during a momentous occasion when the illustrious Princess of Hessen by Rhine, the future Empress Maria Alexandrovna, bestowed upon the world their firstborn son, Grand Duke Nicholas Alexandrovich Romanov, in the year 1843. It was made by the court jeweller Bolin.
Though Nikolay’s earthly sojourn was brief, the tiara continued its journey through time. Following the passing of Empress Maria in 1880, this resplendent crown of diamonds and pearls gracefully transitioned into the possession of her third son, the esteemed Grand Duke Vladimir. A testament to its enduring allure, the tiara underwent a subtle transformation in 1924, facilitated by the deft hands of Queen Mary. Adorned with the renowned Cambridge emerald pear shaped pedants, the tiara now stands as a resplendent amalgamation of precious gemstones, an irrefutable symbol of regal refinement.
Thus, the captivating tale of the „Grand Duchess Vladimir tiara“ weaves a tapestry of nobility and historical intrigue. Through its many custodians and transformations, this timeless artifact has transcended eras, gracefully adorning the heads of queens and captivating the hearts of all who gaze upon its majestic splendor.
Maria Alexandrovna (Russian: Мария Александровна), born Princess Wilhelmine Marie of Hesse and by Rhine (8 August 1824 – 3 June 1880), was Empress of Russia as the first wife of Emperor Alexander II.
Marie was the legal daughter of Ludwig II, Grand Duke of Hesse, and Princess Wilhelmine of Baden. Marie was only 14 years old when Tsesarevich Alexander Nikolaevich fell in love with her while he was traveling to Western Europe. She arrived in Russia in September 1840 and converted to the Eastern Orthodox Church under the name Maria Alexandrovna, when she married Alexander the following April.
Maria was known for her intellect. However, she suffered from tuberculosis from 1863 and spent long stays in southern Europe to avoid harsh winters, which worsened after the death of her eldest son Nicholas Alexandrovich. She was also the mother of Marie Alexandrovna, the Duchess of Edinburgh and Saxe-Coburg, her only surviving daughter.
Important Romanov Turquoises. The Russian empress Catherine the Great passed down a set of diamond turquoise jewels through the generations, Princess Louise of Prussia – the Duchess of Connaught to Princess Margaret of Connaught, Princess Ingrid of Sweden her daughter is the late Queen Ingrid of Denmark.
Princess Margaret is a maternal grandmother of Queen Margrethe and the paternal grandmother of King Carl-Gustav of Sweden.
That is how these jewels found their way to Queen Margrethe, see above with the older setting and the smaller ear pendants, and she gifted them to Crown Princess Mary in 2022 for her 50th birthday.
The collection of Turquoises of Queen Ingrid of Denmark left from her mother Princess Margareta of Connaught, the Crown Princess of Sweden.
Turquoise Bracelet,
Turquoise Diamond Cuff with seven oval Turquoises,
Turquoise Tiara,
Princess Isabella’s Diadem The Turquoise Flower Tiara| Royal Jewels History Denmark
Turquoise Diamond Cluster Brooch,
Turquoise Diamond earrings,
Turquoise Diamond smaller ear pendants now Crown princess Mary of Denmark,
Turquoise Diamond Heart Brooch,
Turquoise Diamond Ring,
Turquoise Diamond pendant,
Turquoise Diamond ornament,
Turquoise Diamond Paisley brooch,
Turquoise Diamond pear shaped pendant,
Turquoise tiara with turquoises and daisies,
Turquoise Diamond jewellery