Emeralds from the Sultan Abdul Hamid -Cartier-the Maharaja of Nawanagar -Princess Anastasia of Greece -Harry Winston to Mrs Heidi Horten
Muzo emeralds are found in the Muzo mines of Colombia.
The journey of the Sultan’s collection of muzo emeralds from its origins in the Ottoman Empire to its current place in the possession of Mrs. Heidi Horten has been a long and fascinating one. The emerald was initially part of a collection owned by Abdul Hamid II, the last sultan of the Ottoman Empire. When the sultan was forced to abdicate in 1909, his collection of gems was sold at auction in Paris, and his emeralds were purchased by Cartier.
Over the years, the emerald changed hands several times, eventually ending up in the possession of Harry Winston. In 1959, Winston purchased a collection of 17 emeralds from the Maharaja of Nawanagar, six of which were used to create a necklace that included the Sultan’s emerald.
The necklace, which also included pear-shaped and round diamonds, was valued at one and a half million dollars at the time of its creation. Although several potential buyers expressed interest, only one South American seriously negotiated for it, but he ultimately decided to invest his money elsewhere.
The necklace was eventually sold to a European connoisseur, who had it mounted in its current form.
Mr. Horten later purchased the necklace for his wife, who wore it until her death in 2022. Now, the necklace is set to be offered at auction at Christie’s in Geneva in May 2023.
The story of the Sultan’s emeralds is a testament to the enduring appeal of rare and beautiful gems. Despite changing hands many times over the years, the necklace has remained a coveted piece of jewelry, admired for its exquisite craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
Maharaja Jam Shri Sir RANJITSINHJI VIBHAJI, 19th Maharaja Jam Sahib of Nawanagar 1906/1933, born 10th September 1872 as Kumar Shri Ranjitsinhji Jiwansinhji, son of Maharaj Shri Jiwansinhji Jalamsinhji of Sarodar, adopted by HH Maharaja Jam Sahib Vibhaji II Ranmalji as his successor, educated at Rajkumar College, Rajkot and at Trinity College,
Sita Devi Maharani of Baroda, ordered a pair of ruby cuffs by Verger Frères, a firm that used to work with Parisian Maisons such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron or Cartier. The developed pieces were either sold on order or through stores in France and abroad, and even at their own workshop at Rue St. Anne. The designs always included the hallmark of the master at Verger Frères, and sometime…………..
Raja Sir Joginder Sen Bahadur, 18th Raja of Mandi 1913/1986.
Son of Mian Kishan Singh Sahib, born 20 August 1904, educated at Queen Mary’s College and Aitchison College, Lahore; Indian Ambassador to Brazil 1952/56; Member of Lok Sabha 1957/62; Honorary Lt.-Col. 3rd/17th Dogra Regiment and Bengal Sappers and Miners.
Married 1stly, about 1911, a daughter of Thakur Devi Singh of Delath. Married 2ndly, 8 February 1923, HH Rani Amrit Kaur, born 1904, died 1948, daughter of Col. HH Farzand i-Dilband Rasikhul-Itiqad Daulat-i-Inglishia *Raja-i-Rajgan Maharaja Sir Jagatjit Singh Bahadur of Kapurthala, and his wife, Rani Kanari.
Married 3rdly, 13 May 1930, Kumari Kusum Kumari [HH Rani Kusum Kumari of Mandi], born 27 August 1913, died June 1998, daughter of Kunwar Prithiraj Sinhji of Rajpipla, and had issue, two sons and two daughters. He died 16 June 1986.
Above in the picture, the Raja, in 1930 when he married Rani Kusum Kumari of Mandi, wearing the important emerald jewel pendant.
Important emerald and diamond pendant/brooch combination, Cartier, 1927.
The surmount set with a carved emerald flower, framed with circular-cut diamonds, supporting a plaque set with an hexagonal polished emerald and calibré-cut emeralds, supporting three emerald drops with onyx rondelle crowns and circular-cut diamond terminals, unsigned, brooch fitting detachable, one small emerald deficient.
The pendant will be offered at auction by Sotheys, Geneve November 2019. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 108686, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a minor to a moderate amount of oil in fissures.
Cartier’s use of mughal stones in jewellery was an important aspect of their Indian style, these designs were dominant between 1913 and 1930.
Raja is a title for a monarch equivalent to king or princely ruler in the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia.
This pendant also calls to mind the brooch worn by Marjorie Merriweather Post, captured in a painting by Giulio de Blaas in 1929.