



Gladys Moore Vanderbilt’s Cartier Diamond and Amethyst Tiara – and its Surviving Fragment
When Gladys Moore Vanderbilt (1886–1965), the youngest daughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt II and Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt, married Count László Széchényi of Hungary in 1908, her wedding became one of the most celebrated unions of the Gilded Age. To mark this transatlantic marriage, Alice Vanderbilt commissioned Cartier to create a magnificent diamond and amethyst tiara in the Belle Époque style.
The jewel was conceived as eight delicate sprays of lilies, rising gracefully above the bandeau, each set with old-cut diamonds. The innovative design allowed for interchangeable drops: either pear-shaped amethysts or similarly shaped diamonds could be suspended from the sprays, altering the tiara’s appearance according to occasion and fashion.
This tiara was more than a personal adornment; it symbolised the Vanderbilt family’s ambition and their determination to translate American industrial wealth into European aristocratic prestige. Gladys, one of the last of the great American heiresses of her generation, embodied this transfer of fortune and status across the Atlantic.
In the years that followed, the tiara was eventually dismantled-a fate not uncommon among great jewels of the period, as changing styles and inheritance divided once-cohesive parures into smaller, wearable pieces. Yet fragments survived, carrying with them echoes of their original splendour.
One such surviving jewel has now resurfaced: a Cartier diamond brooch, designed as a single lily spray, set with an old-cut pear-shaped diamond weighing 4.55 carats. Originally part of Gladys Vanderbilt’s tiara, the brooch retains the elegance of Cartier’s Belle Époque craftsmanship and stands as a rare tangible relic of the Vanderbilt legacy.
In November 2025, this brooch will be offered at auction in Geneva. Its reappearance not only revives the story of Gladys Vanderbilt’s celebrated wedding gift but also highlights the enduring allure of jewels that once served as instruments of social power, familial aspiration, and transatlantic identity.