Yet all eyes gravitated toward the magnificent Rutland Tiara, adorned with diamond carnations and fuchsias—blooms symbolizing enduring love and devotion. This exceptional piece has graced the heads of Rutland duchesses since the 18th century, each wearing adding to its storied legacy.
Above Janetta, 7th Duchess of Rutland, was immortalized wearing the tiara in portraits from the 1890s. The piece subsequently passed to her successor, Violet, 8th Duchess of Rutland—Lady Violet’s namesake. Though the 8th Duchess was rarely photographed in the jewels herself, she graciously lent the tiara to her daughter, the legendary socialite Diana Cooper (later Viscountess Norwich), for Cecil Beaton’s iconic 1937 Vogue photoshoot.
Royal Moments and Wartime Drama
The tiara achieved particular prominence in 1937 when Kathleen, 9th Duchess of Rutland, wore it to the Coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth at Westminster Abbey. Serving as a Canopy Bearer for the new Queen, the Duchess provided the assembled crowds with a spectacular view of the family treasure.
In a dramatic wartime episode, the tiara’s survival hinged on the courage of Lady Ursula D’Abo, Kathleen’s daughter. Defying her mother’s wishes during the Blitz, Lady Ursula enlisted Lord Beaverbrook’s assistance to transport the precious jewels from Carrington’s in Regent Street back to the safety of Belvoir Castle—a tale she later recounted in her memoir, The Girl with the Widow’s Peak..
The Odyssey of an Important Sapphire: From Imperial Tiara to Royal Sautoir
In 2007 and 2011, I first wrote about the jewels on my website. Now, my research has added important new insights to their history.
The journey begins with a magnificent 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, originally part of a tiara belonging to Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia. This tiara and its sapphires were later in the possession of her son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich.
Grand Duchess Vladimir & Cartier’s Introduction (1908-1909): In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna (née Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin), known as Grand Duchess Vladimir (wife of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich), discreetly inquired with Cartier in Paris about resetting a suite of these Romanov sapphires, likely mined in Ceylon. The sapphires had come to her husband’s side of the family, specifically from his brother Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich who died in 1908 and left the parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir.
Cartier’s ledgers note discussions about using the sapphires for a sautoir or a modern diadem. The grand 311-carat cabochon sapphire was specifically mentioned. By June 1909, the original tiara was dismantled, and Cartier received the sapphires. While other sapphires from Grand Duchess Vladimir’s collection were sold, the impressive 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire was retained by Cartier, with a note in their vault inventory about it being held „per Cartier option.“ A minor scratch on its pavilion was noted, to be concealed in any new setting.
Grand Duchess Victoria Melita Commissions the Sautoir (1911): In March 1911, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha), who was the wife of Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovich (the son of Grand Duchess Vladimir), placed an urgent order with Cartier. She commissioned a sautoir to feature the 311-carat sapphire (explicitly noted in Cartier’s ledger as „provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] stock 1909“) alongside a newly acquired 35.12-carat Ceylon star sapphire. The design included 18 transitional diamonds and a platinum chain. This sautoir was intended as a 15th-anniversary gift from her husband, Grand Duke Kirill. Cartier cleverly suspended the 311-carat gem as a pendant, concealing the previously noted scratch. The piece was delivered by May 1911 – learn more, take the link in bottom.
Revolution and a Sister’s Support: After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita fled Russia, managing that her maid brought the jewels to her from the vault, while she was in exile. At some point later, Victoria Melita sold the sautoir to her sister, Queen Marie of Romania.
A Royal Wedding Gift to Princess Elisabeth (1921): In 1921, Queen Marie of Romania gifted this historic Cartier sautoir, featuring the 311-carat Romanov sapphire, to her daughter, Princess Elisabeth of Romania (Victoria Melita’s niece), for her marriage to Prince George of Greece (who would later become King George II of Greece).
Princess Elisabeth (later Queen of Greece) retained the sautoir even after her separation. Following her death in 1956, the necklace „vanished into the private market.“ Today, this magnificent sautoir, a testament to Romanov splendor, Cartier’s artistry, and tumultuous royal lives, resides in a Swiss private collection and is occasionally loaned for prestigious exhibitions.
Princess Elisabeth of Ysenburg & Büdingen, nee Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg granddaughter of Alexandra Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin| Important Sapphire and Diamond Necklace from her grand mother made by Bolin and large Sapphire and Diamond Brooch Bolin Saphir-und Diamant-Collier und Romanov Sapphir Brosche von Mecklenburg-Schwerin
The Sapphire and Diamond Necklace of Grand Duchess Alexandra
Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin
Queen Elizabeth II | QUEEN ELIZABETH the Queen Mother’s Pair of Ruby BROOCH | Cartier Ruby and Diamond Flower Brooches Clip | Queen Mother Royal Jewels Great Britain and Ireland
The Devonshire Parure The Duke of Devonshire had seven jewels commissioned for his niece to wear it on the Tsars Coronation in Russia. It consisted a bandeau, bracelet, coronet, diadem, necklace, stomacher, and comb. The pieces used ancient cameos, intaglios, and stones from the 2nd Duke of Devonshire’s extensive carved gem collection. There are 88 gems in total in what is officially known as the Devonshire Parure, including carnelian, amethyst, garnets, emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds.
Devonshire Parure |Stomacher Devante de Corsage setted with ancient Carved Gems, engraved Cameo, Intaglio in Renaisance Style with Enamel in Gold|Chatsworth
Schmuck und Juwelen der Deutsche Fürstenhäuser | Royal Jewels – Historical Jewerly and Treasure of Royals and Aristocracy | bijoux historiques| исторические драгоценности
