The Odyssey of an Important Sapphire: From Imperial Tiara to Royal Sautoir
In 2007 and 2011, I first wrote about the jewels on my website. Now, my research has added important new insights to their history.
The journey begins with a magnificent 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire, originally part of a tiara belonging to Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia. This tiara and its sapphires were later in the possession of her son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich.
Grand Duchess Vladimir & Cartier’s Introduction (1908-1909): In 1908, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna (née Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin), known as Grand Duchess Vladimir (wife of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich), discreetly inquired with Cartier in Paris about resetting a suite of these Romanov sapphires, likely mined in Ceylon. The sapphires had come to her husband’s side of the family, specifically from his brother Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich who died in 1908 and left the parure to his brothers Grand Duke Paul and Grand Duke Vladimir.
Cartier’s ledgers note discussions about using the sapphires for a sautoir or a modern diadem. The grand 311-carat cabochon sapphire was specifically mentioned. By June 1909, the original tiara was dismantled, and Cartier received the sapphires. While other sapphires from Grand Duchess Vladimir’s collection were sold, the impressive 311-carat egg-shaped sapphire was retained by Cartier, with a note in their vault inventory about it being held „per Cartier option.“ A minor scratch on its pavilion was noted, to be concealed in any new setting.
Grand Duchess Victoria Melita Commissions the Sautoir (1911): In March 1911, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita (née Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha), who was the wife of Grand Duke Kirill Vladimirovich (the son of Grand Duchess Vladimir), placed an urgent order with Cartier. She commissioned a sautoir to feature the 311-carat sapphire (explicitly noted in Cartier’s ledger as „provenance GDV [Grand Duchess Vladimir] stock 1909“) alongside a newly acquired 35.12-carat Ceylon star sapphire. The design included 18 transitional diamonds and a platinum chain. This sautoir was intended as a 15th-anniversary gift from her husband, Grand Duke Kirill. Cartier cleverly suspended the 311-carat gem as a pendant, concealing the previously noted scratch. The piece was delivered by May 1911 – learn more, take the link in bottom.
Revolution and a Sister’s Support: After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Grand Duchess Victoria Melita fled Russia, managing that her maid brought the jewels to her from the vault, while she was in exile. At some point later, Victoria Melita sold the sautoir to her sister, Queen Marie of Romania.
A Royal Wedding Gift to Princess Elisabeth (1921): In 1921, Queen Marie of Romania gifted this historic Cartier sautoir, featuring the 311-carat Romanov sapphire, to her daughter, Princess Elisabeth of Romania (Victoria Melita’s niece), for her marriage to Prince George of Greece (who would later become King George II of Greece).
Princess Elisabeth (later Queen of Greece) retained the sautoir even after her separation. Following her death in 1956, the necklace „vanished into the private market.“ Today, this magnificent sautoir, a testament to Romanov splendor, Cartier’s artistry, and tumultuous royal lives, resides in a Swiss private collection and is occasionally loaned for prestigious exhibitions.
The Sapphire and Diamond Necklace of Grand Duchess Alexandra
Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin Sapphire Diamond Necklace made by Bolin Princess Alexandra von Hannover-Cumberland Grossherzogin von Mecklenburg-Schwerin
We could see the Duchess of Albany wore a lot of pearl strings and pearl robes. It’s not known from who she was presented to her, yet.
But in the year 1916 the Times noted: Christie’s sold apearl rope composed of a row of 258 large graduated pearls,the property of the Duchess of Albany, which was „knocked down“ at Pound 2700. This rope had often been worn by Queen Victoria. The proceeds of the sale are intended for the upkeep of the Deptford Fund, of which the Duchess of Albany has been President for over 21years and the Maternity Home of the Profession Classes War Relief Council.
Duchess of Albany’s wedding gifts important snake bracelet diamonds and saphire head – Duchess of Albany -Princess Helen’s Diamond Snake Bracelet| Royal Jewel History British royal jewels
Duchess of Albany Rose of York Brooch – serpent cuff, diamond serpent as bracelet, snake jewels Duchess of Albany | Royal Jewel History British royal jewels
Archduke Pal of Habsburg-Lothringen, Archduchess Antonia wedding 2024 Bridal Tiara Diamond Oak Leaves Tiara Diadem – Erzherzog Pal und Antonia Lütz Erzherzogin von Österreich Hochzeit Bonn 2024 Diamant Diadem Tiara Eichenblatt Diadem Tiara aus Diamanten
Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden (SKD), zur neuen Präsentation der Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe
Grünes Gewölbe Dresden – Green Vault Saxony’s royal jewels – green vault treasury jewel room – Grünes Gewölbe und Rüstkammer der SKD 13.08.24 im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss Dresden // Foto: David Pinzer
Fast fünf Jahre waren seit dem spektakulären Einbruch in das Historische Grüne Gewölbe vergangen, als endlich ein Lichtblick am Horizont erschien. Die Juwelen, die im Dezember 2022 nach langen Ermittlungen zurückerlangt wurden, sollten nun erstmals wieder der Öffentlichkeit präsentiert werden. Es war ein bedeutender Moment, auf den viele lange gewartet hatten.
Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss
Das Landgericht Dresden hatte seine Zustimmung gegeben, die kostbaren Stücke an ihren angestammten Platz zurückzubringen. Trotz dieser Rückkehr blieben die Juwelen weiterhin für die gerichtliche Begutachtung unter Sicherstellung, doch ihre Anwesenheit im Grünen Gewölbe erlaubte es den Menschen, das Museum wieder in seiner fast vollständigen Pracht zu erleben. Die Vitrine, die einst leer und verlassen gewirkt hatte, erstrahlte nun erneut und zog zahlreiche Besucherinnen und Besucher an, die sich von der Schönheit und dem Glanz der ausgestellten Stücke verzaubern ließen.
Die Juwelen selbst wurden in dem Zustand präsentiert, in dem sie den Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden übergeben worden waren. Trotz der kaum sichtbaren, aber dennoch vorhandenen Schäden, die eine Restaurierung erforderlich machten, strahlte das barocke Schmuckensemble eine einzigartige Aura aus, die es weltweit in seiner Art unübertroffen machte. Inmitten dieser Pracht wurde deutlich, dass Museen weit mehr sind als nur Orte des Schauens – sie sind Bewahrer und Forscher kultureller Werte. Hier, im Grünen Gewölbe, zählte nicht allein der materielle Wert der Juwelen, sondern vor allem ihr kultureller und historischer Wert.
Green Vault Germany Saxony| Grünes Gewölbe Dresden Sachsen juwelenzimmer Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden SKD die Präsentation der zurückerlangten Juwelen im Historischen Grünen Gewölbe im Residenzschloss
Die Rückkehr dieser Juwelen bedeutete eine neue Phase der Hoffnung und Erwartung. Es waren Werke der sächsischen und internationalen Juwelierkunst des 18. Jahrhunderts, die als künstlerische Hauptwerke galten. Die Schäden, die sie erlitten hatten, schienen zwar reparierbar, doch diese Aufgabe würde eine internationale Expertenkommission übernehmen, sobald die Juwelen endgültig freigegeben würden.
Doch es blieb ein Wunsch, der nicht erlosch: Eines Tages würden vielleicht auch die übrigen verlorenen Juwelen wieder ihren Weg zurück ins Grüne Gewölbe finden. Die Soko Epaulette, die die Ermittlungen weiterführte, ließ keinen Hinweis unbeachtet. Es war eine leise, aber entschlossene Hoffnung, die hinter den Mauern des Museums lebte.
Die Vergangenheit konnte zwar nicht rückgängig gemacht werden, aber die Zukunft sollte sicherer sein. Die Sicherheitsarchitektur, die die Sammlungen und Liegenschaften schützte, war gründlich überarbeitet worden. In enger Zusammenarbeit mit den zuständigen Behörden wurden Maßnahmen ergriffen, um sicherzustellen, dass ein solcher Einbruch niemals wieder geschehen könnte. So blickte man im Grünen Gewölbe nach vorn, mit einem neu gefestigten Vertrauen und dem Wissen, dass die Kultur und Geschichte, die in diesen Mauern bewahrt wird, sicherer war als je zuvor.
August des Starken King of Sachsen’s Diamond Treasury – the Historic Green Vault
Nearly five years had passed since the dramatic break-in at the Historic Green Vault, when at last a glimmer of hope emerged. The jewels, recovered in December 2022 after extensive investigations, were now ready to be displayed to the public for the first time. It was a momentous occasion, long awaited by many.
The Dresden Regional Court had granted permission for these precious pieces to be returned to their rightful place. Though the jewels remained under judicial custody for further examination, their presence in the Green Vault allowed the museum to once again be seen in nearly all its former splendor. The once empty and forlorn display case now shone brightly, drawing countless visitors who were captivated by the beauty and brilliance of the treasures on display.
The jewels were presented in the exact condition in which they had been returned to the State Art Collections of Dresden. Despite the barely visible yet existent damage that required restoration, the baroque jewelry ensemble radiated a unique aura, unmatched anywhere in the world. It was a powerful reminder that museums are far more than mere places for viewing—they are guardians and researchers of cultural values. Here, in the Green Vault, the jewels‘ cultural and historical significance far outweighed their material value.
The return of these jewels marked a new phase of hope and anticipation. These pieces were masterpieces of 18th-century Saxon and international jewelry craftsmanship, and despite the damage they had suffered, experts believed they were repairable. An international commission of experts was set to take on the restoration work once the jewels were fully released.
Yet, one wish remained unfulfilled: that one day, the other missing jewels might also find their way back to the Green Vault. The ongoing efforts of the „Soko Epaulette“ investigative team ensured that no lead was overlooked. It was a quiet but determined hope that resonated within the museum’s walls.
While the past could not be undone, the future was made more secure. The security architecture protecting the collections and properties had been thoroughly revised. In close collaboration with the relevant authorities, measures were implemented to ensure that such an intrusion could never happen again. And so, the Green Vault looked forward with renewed confidence, knowing that the culture and history preserved within its walls were safer than ever before.
Schmuck und Juwelen der Deutsche Fürstenhäuser | Royal Jewels – Historical Jewerly and Treasure of Royals and Aristocracy | bijoux historiques| исторические драгоценности