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In 1856 the crown jeweler Bapst created a comb for Empress Eugenie using diamonds from the French crown jewels. The head ornament had nine long diamond pendants called pampilles or aiquillettes.
At the auction of the French crown jewels in 1887, Tiffany’s bought four pampilles and sold two of them to Junius Spencer Morgan, the wealthy patriarch of the renowned merchant banking family.
He put these 2 pampilles in the safe with this order:
The contents of this box „2 diamond pendants from the Crown Jewels of France“ as described in the papers which accompany them are the property of my daughter Mary Ethel Burns.
They were handed to me by her Grandfather on the 29th June 20/88 to be held in Trust for her.
Walter H. Burns.
It was an exquisite and amazing present to his granddaughter May Burns.
She remounted the pampilles and the twenty-eight diamonds into a fringe necklace. It is said that the old-mine cut diamonds are I to J in colour, SI to I1 clarity in lively brilliance.
The historic Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Diamond Necklace went to Tiffany & Co., on auction in October 2015, who first purchased the 28 diamonds on the necklace at the 1887 French Crown Jewels auction in Paris. US$1,548,718 / CHF 1,505,959 Source:Sotheby’s;
Während des Zweiten Kaiserreichs, fertigten viele Juweliere Parures oder demi parures von Diamant Blumen in Art und Form, so nahe wie möglich an der Natur.
Flora wurde zum bevorzugten Thema der Juweliere und 1855 auf der Ausstellung der Kronjuwelen, die Öffentlichkeit einen stomacher der roten Johannisbeere Blätter bewundern, eines der prächtigsten parures des 19. Jahrhunderts der Kronjuwelen von Frankreich, von Bapst Paris 1855
– A butterfly, the body beeing a large opal about 2 inch long and the wings set upon springs and made in diamonds, rubies and emeralds.
– An Emerald Cross >> quite unique, the emerald beeing oblong and set edge to egde, nothing between, and about six in the long part of the cross and one each side of the centre, to form the arm; this was about four inches long.
The famous cross, suspended from a pearl necklace, and represented in Winterhalters portrait, is composed of emeralds of the finest colour and purity, while the pearls all match each other m size, shape, and tint.
– There was a wonderful necklace of black pearls, the only one in existince, each being as large as a marrow-fat pea and diamond snap, it took years to collect it.
– Two ear-rings of diamonds, the purest but each end like a drop of water and hung pendant and swinging from the small end, wonderful pair the stones mutch so well, but they must have been cut away
terribly to assume the present shape.
-Several ear-rings, all large diamonds, six diamond rings- one a superb one worth £ 400.
– ear-tops, composed of immense single brilliants, were a present from the Emperor:
– a bracelet large with fine rubies and diamonds.
– a watch and chateline the back jewelled in diamonds and colored precious stones a marvellous piece of setting.
– two large anchors of diamonds, about 5inch long, brooches one beeing the large diamond anchors worn as shoulder ornaments by the Empress as patronesa of the French fleet and procured specially for the imperial visit to Cherbourg, later in the possession of the Duchess of Newcastle.
– a head ornament of diamonds worked into the form of an olive wreath, with black beads introduced in it at regular intervals. The olive branch told its own story of peace, and the sombre beads with which the glittering brilliants were relieved were meant to express sorrow tor the soldiers who had fallen. The workmanship is exquisite, and the stones are of the first water. This magnificent ornnicent is valued at several thousands of pounds It would be superfluous to pass eulogium upon the beauty or quality of the jewels
– Another splendid head ornament is composed of wheatears in diamonds, with a centre of corn flowers and grass also in diamonds, which were capable of being detached, and were oftener worn separately as dress ornaments than in their collected form.
– a head ornament – diamond rose leaves with full-sized rose and buds in centre, purchased in the London exibition of 1862.
-a bracelet with a large sapphire in splendid quality and color, set round with in large brillants on an elastic band of large diamonds.
A sapphire and diamond necklace of rare large sapphires with large brillants interventing, with pearls attached to it, each pearl weighing some hundred grains.
An aigrette of diamonds, emeralds and pearls arranged in oriental fashion presented by the Sultan, makes the exquisite head ornament of English make, bought at the Exhibiton of 1842. .
A Bracelet composed of maní coloured stones, which is said to have been presented by the Viceroy of Egypt.
The Empress of Russia is understood to have puchased the celebrated suit of rubies and ist is known that there are many articeles of enormous value still at Chistlehurst, which will be disposed of when a purchaser can be found.
Later in the year, Messrs, Christie, Mansen and Woods put up to auction at their rooms, on June 24 a lot of valubable jewels, which thought were generally understood to be the property of of the Empress Eugenie:
The first article which attreated attention was Lot 49 a marquise ring, with a pink diamond, surrounded by brilliants, formerly the property of the Empress Josephina. This was followed by a pendant of emeralds, pearls and brillants. wich was knocked down for 605 guineas. And other jewelry with emeralds, in detail emeralds and the history>>
A cross formed of eleven large brilliants fetched 855 guineas;
A pearl necklace composed of 41 large pearls £2400
The 2 anchors – see above- are sold for £2150
A Tiara £2635
The brilliant Tiara formed as a group of leaves – see above- £970
A brilliant tiara formed of a band of brilliants for 780 guineas; in total 123 lots realised upwards of £ 50000 $400000
Le 24 juin 1872 à Londre le vente « une partie des magnifiques bijoux d’un personnage distingué » d’une grande partie de l’écrin privé de l’ex impératrice Eugénie.
Les 123 lots bijoux : du style végétal « une superbe broche composé d’un bouton de rose et feuillages entièrement en brillants »
les émeraudes« une grande broche, splendide, avec émeraude centrale entourée de très beaux brillants, avec pendentif d’une émeraude en poire et brillants »
les joyaux représentatifs du style Louis XVI« une broche en nœud de rubans et brillants»
«un magnifique diadème de brillant, formant un ensemble de feuillages »
Smaragdkreuzcollier von Cartier London aus dem Jahr 1937, das Halsband und Kette bestehen aus runden Diamanten und 15 Smaragden von 134,45 Karat und das anhängende Smaragdkreuz der Königin Isabella von Spanien hat 45,02 Karat. Die Geschichte zu dieser Kette die im November in Genf 2013 versteigert wird:
This impressive necklace of Royal inspiration was designed by Cartier London in 1937 after they had purchased a rare emerald cross of 45 carats from Queen Eugenia Victoria of Spain.
Carved from one single gem, the cross, named ‘The Andean cross’ had belonged to Queen Isabel II of Spain as well as to Empress Eugenie of France. To honour this extremely rare gem, Cartier selected over 100 carats of the best emeralds available at the time to create the stunning emerald and diamond necklace(now on offer at Christie’s Geneva in November).
The South American provenance of the emeralds, the historic ‘Andean cross’ and the magnificent quality of the diamonds and emeralds charmed Simon Patiño who purchased the necklace for his wife in January 1938. At a later date the cross was purchased by Van Cleef & Arpels and the necklace was shortened in order to create a pair of matching earrings.
These exceptional pieces feature rare gems of supreme quality, once owned by ‘The Tin King’, embody his taste and that of the fabulous and powerful dynasty he founded.The highlight of the Patiño Collection was this magnificent emerald and diamond necklace, by Cartier (estimate: SFr.6.6-9.4 million / US$ 7-10 million) .
Schmuck und Juwelen der Deutsche Fürstenhäuser | Royal Jewels – Historical Jewerly and Treasure of Royals and Aristocracy | bijoux historiques| исторические драгоценности