Florence J. Gould Blue Princess Sapphire Necklace and important jewels
Florence Gould, a patron of the arts, died in her villa on the Mediterranean in 1983. She was 87 years old.
Mrs. Gould had moved to the villa after the death of her husband, Frank Jay Gould, in 1956. She was born in San Francisco, the daughter of Maximilien Lacaze, a French publisher who made his fortune in the United States. She interrupted her career as an opera singer in 1923 when she married Mr. Gould, who was the son of Jay Gould, the American railroad magnate.
When Florence J. Gould, a patron of the arts and daughter-in-law of the railroad magnate Jay Gould, was 80 years old, she packed most of her jewelry and went to Japan and Southeast Asia.
The necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings, brooches and clips she took with her on that 1976 trip, jewelry now valued at about $8 million, will be auctioned next Wednesday at Christie’s.
“She let all the women in a geisha house try on her jewels,“ Daniel Wildenstein, the art dealer, recalled of an incident he witnessed as her companion on that journey. He was wary, he said, but Mrs. Gould was not, and “she was proven right – all the jewels came back.“
In Cambodia, Mrs. Gould, generously decked out in gems, traveled by elephant to see the temples of Angkor. On another occasion, Mrs. Gould, wearing rings on her fingers and jewels at her throat, rode off into the Cambodian jungle in a pedicab with only a guide.
“She was full of diamonds,“ Mr. Wildenstein recalled, adding that he feared for the safety of his friend and client.
“I was certain she’d never arrive alive. She wasn’t the least bit afraid. Of course, all was well.“ Mrs. Gould’s jewelry remained intact on that trip, and she wore most of it frequently at El Patio, her villa at Cannes, until her death at 87, a year ago. The bulk of the extraordinary jewelry holdings of the widow of Frank Jay Gould – he was Jay Gould’s youngest child and a real-estate tycoon who developed Juan-les- Pins on the Riviera – will be on view all this weekend and through next Tuesday at Christie’s, Park Avenue at 59th Street.
Not all of Mrs. Gould’s jewelry is in this sale – some pieces were sold earlier, and others were stolen. Following a 1978 theft at her estate, involving $1.4 million worth of jewels, Mrs. Gould spoke lightly of the loss. “She used to say, ‚Thank heaven, they only got my everyday jewelry,‘ “
John Young, a director of the Florence J. Gould Foundation, said, adding that the most valuable pieces stolen were a three-strand necklace of 97 pearls, worth almost $700,000, and an 85-pearl chain.
The purpose of the foundation, which benefits from most of Mrs. Gould’s $100 million estate, is to foster French-American amity. Mrs. Gould, who was born in San Francisco and studied opera before she became Mr. Gould’s third wife in 1923, died without heirs.
The star among the 87 offerings in the sale is a sapphire necklace valued at as much as $1.5 million. The design began as a simple necklace devised by Van Cleef & Arpels, using a spectacular 114.30-carat sapphire, “The Blue Princess,‘‚ with diamonds. Mrs. Gould subsequently made “The Blue Princess“ the center of an assemblage of sapphires and diamonds, a necklace that she styled and Georges Bidault, a jeweler with a workshop outside Paris, fabricated.
Second only in value to the sapphire is the “Victory“ diamond, 31.35 carats, mounted as a ring, which was named for the Allied victory in World War II because the rough stone from which it was cut was discovered in Sierre Leone in 1945 at the end of the war. The rough stone was the third- largest ever found in Africa. The ring is estimated to sell for up to $700,000.
Mrs. Gould had a passion for pearls, and more than one superb necklace remains. A pearl and diamond fringe necklace by Alexander Reza, a Paris jeweler on the Place Vendome is estimated to sell for up to $300,000. “If we had five of them, we could sell them all, so strong is the interest,“ Francois Curiel, Christie’s jewelry specialist, said. Mr. Reza also fashioned for Mrs. Gould an emerald-bead necklace of carved fluted stones, the size of marbles, which is estimated to bring up to $220,000.
She wore diamonds from head to toe – as Mr. Curiel discovered when he checked her closets and found a pair of diamond clips on her shoes. She wore fakes too – there are three fake diamonds, two fake sapphires and an ersatz emerald in the sale. The fakes and the fish – there are numerous fish-shape pins, crafted of sapphires and diamonds, and of ivory, diamonds and emeralds – are, according to Christie’s, attracting the most interest among lower-price offerings in the sale.
On April 12, 1984 her jewelry was sold for $8 million, the highest price then ever reached at auction for a single collection of jewelry.
Jewelry Collections Of Prominent Women
Jewelry that was owned by three other women who were prominent in their careers and as hostesses will be offered next week in three sales at Sotheby’s, York Avenue at 72d Street. Eleanor (Cissy) Medill Patterson, publisher of The Washington Herald until her death in 1948, was partial to the black-pearl necklace and earrings that will be sold next Thursday at 2 P.M.
Miss Patterson bought the string of 22 natural black pearls, separated by diamonds, with matching ear clips in 1934, when she saw them in the window at Cartier in New York.
According to an account in “Cissy,“ a biography of the publisher by Paul Healy, Cartier had just acquired the jewelry from Prince Youssoupoff, a Romanov, who told Jacques Cartier that two of the pearls had belonged to Catherine the Great. Miss Patterson left the pearls to Evie Robert, a friend, who was a columnist, and whose daughter Alice Birney Robert Jones is the consignor. Sotheby’s expects the pearls will bring as much as $200,000.
Following the death in 1975 of Perle Mesta, the celebrated party giver who was Minister to Luxembourg under President Harry S. Truman, her jewelry was purchased by an antiques dealer, who sold it to a collector. Now the collector, who has not been identified, is selling Mrs. Mesta’s suite of aquamarine and diamond jewelry, comprising a necklace, pendant, ear clips and brooch (up to $30,000), and an emerald and diamond brooch (up to $20,000). These will also be auctioned.
Turquoise and diamond ornament brooch| Royal Wedding gift from the Prince and Princess of Wales to Princess Mary of Teck
Turquoise and diamond ornament brooch| Royal Wedding gift from the Prince and Princess of Wales to Princess Mary of Teck.
The jewel was a wedding gift in 1893 from Queen Mary’s in-laws, the Prince and Princess of Wales, later King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.
The center of the ornament is a large round turquoise cabochon, surrounded from 14 diamonds.
Above on the left in the picture, Queen Mary wearing the Turquoise Diamond Cluster Brooch with a pendant, it looks like one of the „chips“, the smaller parts of the Cullinan Diamonds.
After her death, in 1953 the turquoise brooch, was inherited by her granddaughter, Elizabeth II.
Queen Elizabeth II, wore the Turquoise and Diamond Brooch three times, at least on 5th April in 2020 when she had addresses to the UK and Commonwealth in a special broadcast recorded at Windsor Castle.
More History:
The late Queen of Prussia and German Empress: Auguste Victoria zu Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg as Royal Bride wearing on of the royal bridal-coronet
Brautkrone der Preussen |Prinzessinnen des Kaiserhaus | Königin Kaiserin |Hohenzollern-Preussen|Kronjuwelen
Es genügt, wenn Du für 20 000 Franken in den Korb (Corbeille de Mariage) tust, das Übrige ist für die Geschenke, die Du in München den Töchtern der Kurfürstin von Bayern machst.
Nimm auch das Nötige mit, um den Damen und Offizieren, die den Dienst bei Dir versehen werden, Geschenke zu machen. Benimm Dich recht würdig, aber lass Dir alle Huldigungen gefallen: man ist Dir alles schuldig. Während Du nur Höflichkeit zu geben hast……………“
Prinzessin Charlotte von Sachsen–Hildburghausen, heiratete 1805 den Prinzen Paul von Württemberg (1785-1852) und wurde damals „Prinzessin Paul“ genannt.
Prinzessin Paul, Prinzessin Charlotte von Sachsen-Hildburghausen (1787-1847) war eine Tochter von Herzog Friedrich und Herzogin Charlotte, Nichte der Königin Luise von Preußen und Schwester der bekannten Prinzessin Therese – der späteren Königin von Bayern.
Der Braut des bayrischen Kronprinzen Ludwig, der extrem gegen die Verbindung mit Napoleon war. Somit enges Mitglied der Familie, Ihrer zukünftigen Schwiegertochter Prinzessin Auguste Amalia Ludovika von Bayern.
Kaiserin Josephine Sohn, Eugene Beauharnais, heiratete im Januar 1806, in die bayrische Königsfamile, es wurde ihr von ihrem taktisch-dynastisch denkenden Mann Napoleon aufgetragen, ein besonderes Geschenk zu machen.
1818 trennte sich das Paar und Charlotte kehrte nach Hildburghausen zurück. Sie hatten zusammen fünf überlebende Kinder.
Die älteste Tochter war Prinzessin Charlotte(1807–1873), später Großfürstin Helene Pawlowna ⚭ 1824 Großfürst Michael Pawlowitsch (1798–1849) sie war durch die großzügigen Brautgeschenke und Brautausstattung auch für angeheiratete Bräute, der Familie Romanov, mit Juwelen und Schmuck, versorgt.
Ihr ältester Sohn Prinz Friedrich von Württemberg 1808-1870 heiratete am 20. November 1845 seine Cousine Prinzessin Katharina von Württemberg (1821–1898), eine Tochter von König Wilhelm I. Er erbte von seiner Mutter den Hochzeitsschmuck – die Topazparure.
Das einzige Kind aus dieser Verbindung war der 1848 in Stuttgart geborene Prinz Wilhelm, der 1891 als Wilhelm II. König von Württemberg wurde.
Im Jahr 1877 heiratete Prinz Wilhelm Prinzessin Marie zu Waldeck und Pyrmont.
Princess Marie of Wurtemberg Pink Topaz Parure Tiara Napoleons wedding present to Princess Paul of Wurtemberg
Und hier ging nun die imperiale Topaz Parure an Prinzessin Marie.
Das Paar hatte drei Kinder, von denen zwei nicht über das Säuglingsalter hinaus kamen. Lediglich die Tochter Prinzessin Pauline (1877–1965), wurde erwachsen und später die Gemahlin von Fürst Friedrich zu Wied (1872–1945).
Im April 1882 verstarb Prinzessin Marie während der Entbindung von Ihrem dritten Kind, das bei seiner Geburt nicht lebensfähig war.
Die Topazparure mit Topas-Tiara, zwei Topas Armbändern, Topas Broschen, Topas Ohrringen und Topas Halsband alles mit Diamanten und rosa Topasen besetzt ging an Tochter Prinzessin Pauline, der späteren Fürstin Wied.
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Zum Vergleich: die Kosten für die Erstellung der Saphir Parure der Kaiserin Josephine, wurde 1805, mit ca 84 000 Franc angegeben. Diese bestand jedoch noch zusätzlich zu der Tiara, Halsband und Armbändern aus einem Gürtel, einem Kamm und mehreren Broschen und Ohrringen.
Die berühmten Rosa Topase |Königlicher Schmuck der Prinzessin Marie von Württemberg
Quote from Emperor Napoleon’s letters to Empress Josephine in November 1805 in Strasbourg……….
„I write to Mr. von Harville that you should leave for Baden and go from there to Stuttgart and Munich.
In Stuttgart you present the bridal present to Princess Paul.
It is enough if you put it in the basket (Corbeille de Mariage) for 20,000 francs, the rest is for the gifts you give in Munich to the daughters of the Elector of Bavaria.
Take with you what is necessary to give gifts to the ladies and officers who will serve you. Behave in a dignified manner, but be willing to accept all homages: they owe you everything.
Princess Charlotte von Sachsen-Hildburghausen, married Prince Paul von Württemberg (1785-1852) in 1805 and was then called „Princess Paul“.
Princess Paul, Princess Charlotte of Saxon-Hildburghausen (1787-1847) was a daughter of Duke Friedrich and Duchess Charlotte, niece of Queen Luise of Prussia and sister of the famous Princess Therese – later the Queen of Bavaria.
The bride of the Bavarian crown prince Ludwig, who was against the connection with Napoleon.
Thus close member of the family, her future daughter-in-law Princess Auguste Amalia Ludovika of Bavaria.
Empress Josephine’s son, Eugene Beauharnais, married in January 1806, into the Bavarian royal family. Her tactically dynastic husband Napoleon instructed her to make a special gift.
In 1818 the couple separated and Charlotte returned to Hildburghausen. Together they had five surviving children.
The eldest daughter was Princess Charlotte (1807-1873), later Grand Duchess Helene Pavlovna ⚭ 1824 Grand Duchess Michael Pavlovich (1798-1849) she was provided with jewels and jewellery by the generous bridal gifts and bridal equipment also for married brides, the Romanov family.
Her eldest son Prince Friedrich von Württemberg 1808-1870 married on November 20, 1845 his cousin Princess Katharina von Württemberg (1821-1898), a daughter of King Wilhelm I. He inherited from his mother the wedding jewellery – the Topazparure.
The only child from this marriage was Prince Wilhelm, born 1848 in Stuttgart, who became King of Württemberg in 1891 as Wilhelm II.
In 1877 Prince Wilhelm married Princess Marie zu Waldeck and Pyrmont. This marriage with a small princely house, a marriage of affection, met with little enthusiasm in Württemberg.
Princess Marie of Wurtemberg Pink Topaz Parure Tiara Napoleons wedding present to Princess Paul of Wurtemberg
And here the imperial Topaz Parure went to Princess Marie.
The couple had three children, two of whom did not go beyond infancy. Only the daughter Princess Pauline (1877-1965) grew up and later the wife of Prince Friedrich zu Wied (1872-1945).
In April 1882 Princess Marie died giving birth to her third child, who was not viable at birth.
The topaz parure with topaz tiara, two topaz bracelets, topaz brooches, topaz earrings and topaz collar all set with diamonds and pink topazes went to daughter Princess Pauline, later Princess Wied.
Also from the Teck Turquoise Parure, two of the bow brooches with turquoises and diamonds. The Turquoise Diamond Parure and die Turquoise Diamond Cluster Necklace and matching earrings with Turquoise and Diamonds
Princess Aglaë Margarete Tatiana Mary of Baden, the niece of Margrave Max of Baden married in the summer of 2019, in Amorbach, Mr Wolf of Trotha.
The bride wore a Fleur de Lys diadem and the bridal gown of her mother, the Austrian Princess Marianne von Auersperg-Breunner, from 1967, when she married Prince Ludwig of Baden, the Margrave’s brother. The 200-year-old bridal veil also comes from Auersperg-Breunner’s estate.
The diadem is a surprise from the treassures of the Baden family, because it is probably the wedding present of the Emperor Franz-Joseph of Austria, from 1900, when the then Princess Marie – Luise of Hanover, Prince Max of Baden (Prince Maximilian Alexander Friedrich Wilhelm of Baden * 10 July 1867 † 6 November 1929, 1918 was the last Chancellor of the German Empire and the last heir to the throne of the Grand Duchy of Baden), married.
From the press at that time is to be read: Gmunden Austria, July 1900. The wedding gifts, received from Princess Marie Luise, were displayed in a small salon of Cumberland Castle on long, white-covered tables for inspection.
„Emperor Franz Joseph had sent a magnificent crown of large diamonds“ …. nothing was known, about it, for a long time.
Princess Marie-Luise, although often wore two large Fleur de Lys brooches studded with large diamonds, on her dress, as can be seen above in the picture, but the matching crown, was never seen in public.
Now a descendant of her, has solved the mystery, the tiara in the form of a diamond crown of five Fleur de Lys lilies, is still in the family, and property of the house Baden and will hopefully be seen more often now as tiara.
The court jeweler of Emperor Franz Joseph was most A.E Köchert , in this time, but also court jeweler Biedermann.
For me it looks like for another A.E. Köchert diamond tiara.
Die spannende Geschichte der Juwelen des Hauses Baden
Schmuck und Juwelen der Deutsche Fürstenhäuser | Royal Jewels – Historical Jewerly and Treasure of Royals and Aristocracy | bijoux historiques| исторические драгоценности
