History of the enormous jewel collection of Queen Mary
DIAMOND TROPHY OF LOVE COLLAR

Formed of seven brilliant-set panels, each with an amatory trophy of bow, quiver and torch in a laurel-wreath oval suspended from a ribbon-tie, framed by foliate brilliant-set bands.
This delicately constructed collar, in the Louis XVI style, was made in March
1901 for Queen Mary when Duchess of Cornwall and York, at the beginning of the reign of King Edward VII. It was probably made by R. & S. Garrard & Co., with diamonds in Gold 6 × 34 cm
The diamonds were taken from a scroll and ribbon-pattern collar*, which itself had been made with stones taken from seven 12-pointed stars and a pair of diamond star earrings, given by Queen Mary’s grandmother, the Duchess of Cambridge, in 1885. These gifts, in 1885, were presumably to mark the Princess’s 18th birthday.
Diamonds were also removed from a floral diamond spray given by her aunt, Augusta, Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, in the same year 1885.

Queen Mary, like her mother-in-law Queen Alexandra, favoured deep collar necklaces for most of her life, due to her long slim neck and the high fashion of the time. The style was not adopted either by Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, to whom the necklace was given when Duchess of York, or by The Queen, who inherited it in 2002, who has worn it only once.
* No reference has been found to the creation of this necklace in the Garrard ledgers; the firm supplied four diamonds and repaired it early in 1902 (Garrard RL51, fol. 266, 30 January 1902, £1 15s). Equally, there is no reference to this necklace in the Cartier archive (an attribution suggested in Munn 2001, p. 133).**

 

Queen Mary’s jewellery | jewel wedding gift list

For her marriage in 1893 to the Duke of York, the future George V, the Princess received a very considerable quantity of jewellery; the majority was of diamonds and pearls.
Generous gifts from her family and from the extended royal family vied with spectacular offerings from all round the United Kingdom and across the Empire.

Among the more significant jewels, exhibited at the Imperial Institute, were three tiaras, twenty-six bracelets, forty-four brooches and fifteen necklaces**.

 

1. Diamonds :  

• Diamond fringe Tiara/necklace given by Queen Victoria
• Diamond fringe Tiara/necklace given by the County of Surrey
• Diamond Tiara from the Earl and Countess of Iveagh
• a handsome diadem of roman workmanship (probably the laurel wreath diadem) – from the King and Queen of Italy  
• Diamond feather Aigrette from the Prince George

 

• Diamond Riviere Necklace from the Prince and Princess of Wales
• Diamond necklace from the Duke of Westminster  see above in the picture as small tiara, with small leaves setted with diamonds and 4 large diamonds with surroundings.
• Important Diamond choker giver not known
• Diamond necklace
• Kapurthala stomacher with diamond
• A diamond brooch with ten diamonds from the County of Lincoln

• Warwick sun brooch made of diamonds Diamond sun brooch from Earl and Countess of Warwick, Lord and Lacy Brooke, Captain Alwyne and Mrs Greville. Lady Eva and the Hon Greville;

   

• a spray of rose-leaves in diamonds – from a few women of the stage   diamond spray brooch from eighty of the leading actresses of London (also noted as Laurel Spray in Diamonds)

  Scent-bottle and true-lovers knot in diamonds sent by Miss Alice de Rothschild – later given to the Duchess of York

• A diamond spray brooch from Lord Amstrong  
• A diamond set bow brooch – the County of Dorset

• Diamond feather brooch from Empress Eugénie ( also made to be a hair ornament
• A diamond wheat-ear and single collet brooch from the Duke of York, 
• May’s monogram set in diamonds – Mrs- Mme Weddington  

• Bow brooch in form of two hearts from Pearls from her future husband 
• Diamond rose brooch – West Yorkshire Regiment
• A rose diamond brooch from her bride worn the day of her wedding
• Diamond rose brooch – West Yorkshire Regiment
  Rose diamond brooch mounted on a bracelet the wedding gift from her groom Prince George
• Another round diamond brooch with the diamond necklace (Seen) 
• A wheel-shaped diamond brooch – The Earl of Fitz William / Lady Borthwick  

 

• A diamond arrow hairpin the Earl and Countess of Dudley (Seen)  

 

• An ornament set in diamonds which belonged to Princess Elizabeth Landgravine of Hesse-Homburg 

• Diamond ornament from Count Korlebrodyki
• An ornament given by Sir Horace Farquabar (Seen) 

 

• Diamond watch from Alice de Rothschild
• A diamond watch-bracelet from Lord Saville (Seen)  

 

• Pair of gold and diamond bangles from the Bombay Presidency, later given to her granddaughter Elisabeth II as wedding gift in 1947

 

• A three-row diamond bracelet from the Marquis of Northampton (Seen) 
• A diamond bracelet – by the Fishmongers‘ Company  

• A diamond and scroll cluster bracelet from the Countess and two ladies of Fitzwilliam  
• A three-diamond collet wire bangle from The Rajah and Ranee of Cooch Behar (Seen)  
• A twisted gold bangle, with diamond ball-ends from The Rajah and Ranee of Sarawak  
• A gold bracelet with diamond centre Mr. & Mrs Arthur Kennard 

 

• Shoe Buckles in diamonds – The Hon. Charles Bourke  

 

• A diamond and brilliant pendant with enamel – Worshipful Company of Carpenters
  

 

• A diamond ring
  „Town of Windsor Ring“ Diamond ring from the Mayor and People of Windsor three-stone ring brilliants (passing to The Queen in 2002)

 

1. Pearls :  

• A diamond  and pearl tiara  – the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland – later given to her granddaughter Elisabeth II  

 

• A Forget me not Diamond pearl Aigrette 
• A Pearl and diamond comb – Sir G. and Lady Lucas

 

• Diamond necklace/tiara with pearls and matching pearls studs – Ladies of England
• A Pearl and diamond choker from the City of London
• A Pearl and Diamond Collier de chien | choker from the  Thakore of Gondal – above on  the left worne.from Thakore Sahib and Ranee of Gondal + bracelet to match

• Five row pearl necklace given by her husband the Duke of York
• A magnificent necklace of three rows of pearls with diamond clasp was presented by 23 counties – it was valued at £6000 Sterling
• A pearl necklace with diamond clasp from the Ladies of Glasgow consists of 51 pearls, graduated from the centre, with the largest being about the size of an ordinary pea. The length of the necklace is 14 inches. The clasp consists of eleven diamonds set in gold. The pearls were valued at 930 pounds and the total cost was close to 1000 pounds (The Scotsman, 30 June 1893) Messrs R.+W.Sorley  
• A pearl necklace of fifty five fine pearls with lozenge-shape diamonds – diamond clasp – presented by a thousand of her Majesty’s subjects  
• A pearl necklace – County of Kent
  

• Diamond and pearl brooch
  
• Women of Hampshire Brooch Brooch/pendant of diamonds and pearls valued at £775 from the women of Hampshire
• A diamond set bow brooch with large pendant pearls – Inhabitants of Kensington
  
• Pearl and diamond brooch „Caduceus“ from the Duke and Duchess of Portland
• Bow brooch in form of two hearts from Pearls from her future husband
  
• Diamond heart and bow brooch pink center, from her husband Duke of York, later King Georg
• A Diamond and large Baroque-pearl brooch  from Adeline, Duchess of Bedford  
• A diamond and pearl acorn brooch from Lady Lindsay (Seen)  
• A pearl pin from Lady Mary Arkwright  
• A pearl brooch from the Earl of Lathom  
• A pearl brooch from Lady Galway  
• A brooch stutted with large black pearls from Lord and Lady Rothschild (Seen) 
• A diamond and pearl brooch  

 

• Diamond jeweled pendant /brooch with a pearshaped large pearl – people of Richmond

 

• A magnificent diamond and pearl bracelet from the Indian Princess  
• A large diamond and two-pearl wire bangle bracelet from the King and Queen of Würtemberg (Seen) 
• A pearl and diamond bracelet from Lord and Lady Burton (seen) 
• A watch studded with pearl and diamond from Lord and Lady Rotschild  

 

• A pearl and diamond ring, designed by Collingwood, presented by Princes Adolphus, Francis and Alexander of Teck to her sister  

 

1. Turquoise :  

• A turquoise and diamond Tiara from her parents
• A turquoise and diamond necklace
  
• Turquoise and diamond earrings
• Three turquoise and diamond brooches
• Cluster brooch of diamonds with turquoise centre given by the Prince and Princess of Wales

• A Turquoise and diamond brooch – turquoise and diamond pin from Lady Borthwick(Seen)
• A turquoise and diamond cluster pin by the Marquis of Londenderry
• A turquoise diamond bracelet from the Marquis and Marchioness of Salisbury (seen) 

• A turquoise and diamond bracelet from Lord and Lady Burton (Seen)  
• A gold scarf ring with turquoise and diamonds from Lady Borthwick  

 

4. Emeralds :

• A cabochon emerald and diamond knot brooch from the Tsarvitch now worn from The Queen.
  

• An emerald and diamond trefoil brooch from Royal St George’s Yacht Club (Seen) (Beth) 
• Gold four-leaf shamrock pin, emeralds and diamonds by Sir Frederick and Lady Milner
  
• an emerald brooch from Viscountess Galloway  
• An emerald and diamond bracelet from the Members of the Surrey Needlework Guild
• An emerald watch from Lord and Lady Hillingdou  

• Cross of the 17th century, a trinket very much in fashion in olden times with our fair Norman kinswomen and in a case adorned with the two Sons of William the Conqueror. It has been sent from Neufchatel-en-Bray, an old town founded by Henry I of England and has been presented by Captain Le Clerc, of the French Embassy, in whose family it has been for many years

1. Ruby : 

 

• A peridot, ruby and diamond peacock feather brooch with a small bow from the Ex-Queen Isabella of Spain (Beth) 
• Two entwined snakes with wings as brooch diamonds and rubies from Mr. Henry Chaplin  
• Diamond and ruby brooch given by Mr Chaplin

 

• A ruby and diamond bracelet incorporating a detachable centrepiece in the shape of a rose from the County of Cornwall 
  

 

• A ruby and diamond cluster and trellis pattern bracelet from Princess Catherine of Würtemberg  

• A gold chain bracelet set with rubies and diamonds from Sir Henry Hawkins (70) 
• A gold bangle with a heart of rubies from Lady Elizabeth Taylor  
• Watch bracelet in diamonds and rubies – Mr Gillett see on right>>
• diamond and ruby sleeve-links from the Hon Copplestone and Mrs Bampfylde  

 

 

• A belle époque diamond and ruby ring from her father in law ( passed to Princess Margaret and sold at auction)
• A pair of diamond and ruby sleeve links from the Hon Coppelstown and Mrs Bampfylde 

 

1. Sapphire : 

 

• Large diamond and sapphires anchor brooch from her husband worn on the day of her wedding
• A sapphire and diamond monogram and coronet brooch from The Infante Antonio and Infante Eulalie  

• Ruby, sapphire and diamond b0angle bracelet from George, Duke of York (seen) 
• A large cabochon sapphire and diamond curb-chain bracelet from the Emperor and Empress of Russia
• A sapphire and diamond bracelet from Mr and Mrs Frederick Wigan  
• A sapphire and diamond bracelet gift from the Worshipful Company of fishmongers  
• A pair of sapphire and diamond sleeve links from the Earl and Countess Cowper (Seen) 

 

• an emerald and sapphire brooch from the Earl Fritzwilliam – no this is wrong – there is the wheelbrooch 
• An emerald and sapphires ring from her three brothers. (Sold during the sale) (seen) 

 

1. Others : 

 

• A 17th century hair comb from Baroness Yon Doup  

 

• Rose of York Brooch with Green and rose enamel (Collection of Queen Elizabeth II) (seen) 
• Diamond brooch with crystal centre – Earl and Countess of Leven
• Diamond-set scarab and four stylised fleurs-de-lys Silver-gilt, 00straight-sided, quatrefoil-shaped box, with hinged lid, mounted with a red glass; from the members of the British Embassy in Berlin.
• A carbuncle and diamond heart and Wings of time brooch from Mr. Wyndham  
• A amethyst jacinth and pearl coronet brooch 

• Cameo – the four Georges set in diamonds, surmonted by a diamond-set crown, 1820 – from Earl and Countess Cadogan
• A cameo from Lady and Lord Dorchester  
• four valuable pins – Mr A.J. Balfour
• Four moonstone hat pins  
• A brooch the gift from the Workshipful Company of Carpenters  

 

• An amethyst and topaz bracelet – Lord & Lady Burton 

 

• Amethyst and diamond locket fromLord & Lady Burton made by Messrs. and Sons, Edinburgh
• Bracelet of diamond and pierres from the People of Richmond

• A half-hoop bracelet from the County of Sussex 
• A gold curb-chain bracelet, with jubilee Institute Medal from Sir Somers Vine and the Staff of the Imperial Institue  

 

• A little gold watch and chain inclosed in a small glass case formerly in the possession of the Empress Josephine from Dr Chittenden. 
• A small birthday book bound in gold and tortoiseshell, containing a miniature in ivory of the royal family and bearing a coronet and short inscription in diamonds and enamel – from the Baron and Baroness Lowenstein. 

• A bird in gold and enamel box – Sir Henry and Lady Meysey-Thomson  
• A lace parasol with carved pin coral handle – from the Italian ambassador and Lady Tornielli  

 

Thank you to Franck – for this list of Royal Jewel wedding presents.

update 2-4-2024

Diamond-set scarab and four stylised fleurs-de-lys Silver-gilt, straight-sided, quatrefoil-shaped box, with hinged lid, mounted with a red glass; from the members of the British Embassy in Berlin.

Gold Opera Glass from Tiffany with diamonds and pearls Sir Augustus and Lady Harris,

Town of Swansea diamond crescent brooch

**Source:Queens Diamonds,Hugh Roberts; thanks to Laura!